Ice in the boat

[paradox]

I have a 40 foot beneteau monohull. I live in New York and the boat is on the hard for the winter.
Despite winterization, I found my bilge pump running but unable to pump. I can only assume that the outlet tube froze with water.
The yard will not let me run a heater on the boat. Besides adding lots of antifreeze, any suggestions?

[rslifkin]

After we haul for winter, I always pump the bilges as dry as possible, then add some antifreeze (the -100* stuff, knowing it'll get diluted some). Then pump that out to make sure the lowest level pumps and lines don't have any water sitting in them (my high water pumps drain completely and are well above the water level the pumps can get down to). As long as no further water is getting into the bilge once you're on land (beyond a little bit of condensation), that should have you in good shape.

In your case, you'll need to thaw things out before adding antifreeze.

[GordMay]

Turn off all power [main breaker], or disconnect bilge pump [if direct wired].

[Mike OReilly]

I always pump the bilge dry, then add antifreeze. And I disconnect all power. Some boats have garboard thru-hulls which can be opened during haul out. It's something I may install if/when I get back to my boat.

At this point, about the only thing you can do is kill the power and add antifreeze. And try and limit the ingress of water.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by paradox

I have a 40 foot beneteau monohull. I live in New York and the boat is on the hard for the winter.
Despite winterization, I found my bilge pump running but unable to pump. I can only assume that the outlet tube froze with water.
The yard will not let me run a heater on the boat. Besides adding lots of antifreeze, any suggestions?

Does the outlet hose have a check valve or a low spot? I bet it does. Get rid of the trap. Sump pumps for cold areas must drains back to the bilge or they will freeze.




And just disconnect the pump. A dry-running pump can overheat and cause a fire.


Do NOT use a heater. Fix the hose. You didn't read the Bronx story? I also saw a boat burn up in the yard (owner went the store).

[gonesail]

move the boat to Florida .. immediately

[deblen]

Winterizing in freezing climate:
Install a bronze garboard drain & leave the plug out when on the hard.
Remove all water from bilges & add a gal or two of pure RV a/freeze to bilge and any other "water traps" (<$5/gal)

Run bilge pump long enough to see pink from thru hull.
Install a tee & ball valve in the head supply line. Close head inlet seacock,insert tee hose in jug of RV a/f & pump/flush toilet until you see pink at outlet seacock.Leave both seacocks open for winter.
Domestic water: drain water tank & plumbing by running faucets til dry.
Add a couple gal RV a/f to tank. Open farthest faucet and run til pink.Repeat at each faucet working "inward" towards tank.
Disconnect battery negative-no power in boat.


Don't forget to order 4 #10 x .75 bronze flat socket wood screws & a small tube of 5200
https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/prod...nch-26248.html


Cheers/ Len



[ATTACH]251235

[John_Trusty]

Paradox is asking for advice now, not for what he "shoulda done" three months ago. I suggest (1) disconnect or switch to off the bilge pumps to avoid burning them out, (2) if you can access the boat, see if you can identify the low spot in the bilge drain and hit it with a hair dryer for half-hour - lift and drain. Lying in the after-bilge in 10-degree weather for half an hour and massaging a bilge hose will motivate you to plan to retire to Florida. The damage to the bilge drains may already be done, so (3) don't worry about this for the next three months, but plan to replace some stuff when you splash. The bilge water itself freezing over will not damage anything - bilges are typically conical, so expanding ice does not exert much sideways pressure to break stuff.

[Scaramanga F25]

Add a gallon or two of water tank antifreeze and go home. Remove in the spring. Present ice will thaw out.

[Cadence]

Stop the water from coming in. Be proactive.

[Hoodsail]

As has been noted, disconnect the power to the pump...could do this by disconnecting your battery leads, but would also check their state of charge & battery water level. If both good would leave on boat for the winter...if not, would add distilled water (if flood batteries), charge all batteries to 12-13 volts, could check specific gravity if you feel so inclined. I'm in CT & so long as batteries are disconnected & fully charged they do fine over winter. thnks

[RSB333]

After my bilge pump got fried when clogged with ice, I installed a garboard plug. That's foolproof, as long as you remember to re-install the plug before launch.

[garyfdl]

Originally Posted by Mike OReilly

I always pump the bilge dry, then add antifreeze. And I disconnect all power. Some boats have garboard thru-hulls which can be opened during haul out. It's something I may install if/when I get back to my boat.

At this point, about the only thing you can do is kill the power and add antifreeze. And try and limit the ingress of water.

What Mike said. I had a Hunter 27' that would 'sweat' inside. I was able to install said plug just aft of the keel. Pulled it at haul out, would lose is during the off season, after about 4 years had enough 'extras' that there was always at least one on the boat. I also used standard brass pipe fittings, found at any hardware store.

[garyfdl]

Originally Posted by Cadence

Stop the water from coming in. Be proactive.

My boat's stored indoors, unheated, still gets moisture inside from condensation. Not as much as when I stored tarped and outside, but it's still an issue.

[ShipAssist]

Originally Posted by rslifkin

After we haul for winter, I always pump the bilges as dry as possible, then add some antifreeze (the -100* stuff, knowing it'll get diluted some). Then pump that out to make sure the lowest level pumps and lines don't have any water sitting in them (my high water pumps drain completely and are well above the water level the pumps can get down to). As long as no further water is getting into the bilge once you're on land (beyond a little bit of condensation), that should have you in good shape.

In your case, you'll need to thaw things out before adding antifreeze.

Lots of good advise here... turn power off, but I would not use antifreeze... it's toxic, and you will most likely never purge out all of it from your engine/bildge.


And I wouldn't use it to winterize my engine either.



I would us RV water line antifreeze. They sell it in several temp protection levels.



A gallon or three in the bilge should do you good..



Come launch time, no worries your good to go.