How To Remove Coupler?

[Neo]

I want to remove the propshaft coupler so that the prop shaft can be pulled.

I removed the Drive Saver (big rubber donut) from between the coupler and the drive flange on the transmission. I discovered that the prop shaft extends about 1/2" beyond the coupler.

To remove the coupler from the shaft, I want to re-bolt the coupler to the transmission drive flange without the Drive Saver in place, and force the prop shaft against the transmission shaft.

Is this advisable?

[sabray]

Evenly tension against the 4 bolt holes. Add pb or a penetrating oil. Some heat on the flange may help. Take it easy and slow. Don't whack with a hammer.

[Neo]

Thanks. I blasted it with PB today and plan to go back tomorrow with 4 slightly longer bolts.

[sandy stone]

I have done what you are attempting, except I was using the old trick of putting a socket on the shaft as a spacer. It was a real PITA, but it worked. Just be aware of how much force you are applying, and how evenly, because you are taking a chance on bending or breaking one of the coupler flanges.

[Celestialsailor]

I made my own puller. I loaned it to some jerk and it came back looking like pretzel. It works good and I do use heat (propane torch) when removing it.

[wingless]

My experience has been that difficult-to-separate couplers and propellers are caused by a poor taper fit.

My practice has been to correct the poor taper fit by lapping, as shown in this reply.

Lapping tapered couplings has made separation acceptable.

[Neo]

Originally Posted by Celestialsailor

I made my own puller. I loaned it to some jerk and it came back looking like pretzel. It works good and I do use heat (propane torch) when removing it.

I like your set up. I'll save that picture for next time I pull the coupler. I saw your post a day to late, I pulled the flange last night.



It came off without having to muscled the bolts with the socket wrench, but I am still worried that I could have bent the drive flange on the tranny. As you can see, the coupler is much more robust than the drive flange.

It only took about 5 hours to get it off

[Neo]

I also had to remove the bolts 4 or 5 time in order to insert a series of different sized sockets and a varying number of washers as the bolts ran up against the transmission.

Next time I'll use a set up like Celestialsailor has. Should be much quicker, and I won't have to worry about bending the drive flange.

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by Neo

I like your set up. I'll save that picture for next time I pull the coupler. I saw your post a day to late, I pulled the flange last night.



It came off without having to muscled the bolts with the socket wrench, but I am still worried that I could have bent the drive flange on the tranny. As you can see, the coupler is much more robust than the drive flange.

It only took about 5 hours to get it off

This is a very real possibility and why cutting the shaft or coupling is very, very often the least expensive option. Had one this spring that owner bent the gear flange by 0.045".... Kind of tough to do a 0.003" alignment when the gear box flange is out 0.045"...

Boat vibrates like a jack hammer now and the only good option is a gear box re-build...

[Neo]

Originally Posted by Maine Sail

This is a very real possibility and why cutting the shaft or coupling is very, very often the least expensive option. Had one this spring that owner bent the gear flange by 0.045".... Kind of tough to do a 0.003" alignment when the gear box flange is out 0.045"...

Boat vibrates like a jack hammer now and the only good option is a gear box re-build...

Can the flange be checked for "flatness" using a dial indicator and magnetic stand. I have not done this before, but these items are listed in the shop manual under precision measuring tools.

[ontherocks83]

Originally Posted by Neo

Can the flange be checked for "flatness" using a dial indicator and magnetic stand. I have not done this before, but these items are listed in the shop manual under precision measuring tools.

should be able to. mount the dial indicator spin the flange and see how much it varies. should be able to get a decent set up at sears or order online. The local marina repair shop may even loan you one

[Neo]

Originally Posted by Maine Sail

This is a very real possibility and why cutting the shaft or coupling is very, very often the least expensive option. Had one this spring that owner bent the gear flange by 0.045".... Kind of tough to do a 0.003" alignment when the gear box flange is out 0.045"...

Boat vibrates like a jack hammer now and the only good option is a gear box re-build...

Yes, I do remember reading that on your website now that you mention it. Next time.

Thanks for all your great protocols. You are the Encyclopedia Britannica for many of us DIY-ers.

[HappyMdRSailor]

Neo,

Cheap everywhere.... Amazon under $30...

It's typically called "run-out" and you'll be glad you checked it before you bolt it all together again... If it's bad, you fix it... If good... You know it isn't the problem if you do have one...

Grizzly G9849 Magnetic Base/Dial Indicator Combo - President's Special - Amazon.com

[Neo]

Thanks, Happy. That will be the first Christmas present I buy for myself.

[Neo]

The prop, prop shaft and coupler will be checked for goodness (or whatever it is they check for) at the local H&H Propeller shop. I'll make sure they reface the coupler.

After re-install the coupler and drive flange must be aligned. There is a DriveSaver installed between the coupler and drive flange.

Should the alignment be done before installing the DriveSaver, or should the alignment be done with the DriveSaver in place?

Once the alignment is close, a professional will be brought in to do the fine tuning. I'm trying to save on the hourly charge.