Anchor swivel - Red or Blue Loctite?

[Paul L]

I want to put Loctite on the flush bolts on this anchor swivel. Permanent Red (heat to remove) or hand tools to remove Blue?

[daletournier]

Id go blue, you will need to undo it at some stage.

Sent from my vivo Y35 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[UNCIVILIZED]

Blue, & if you're really, really concerned with the possibility of things coming loose, fully coat the threads prior to screwing in the pin, instead of using just a drop or two. Which gives you holding power on par with the lower end of using couple of drops of Red.
With Red I just wind up breaking too many fasteners, even with heat. Also given that the unit is stainless, you'll want to pull it apart with some regularity to check for crevice corrosion. So again, Blue.

[bvander]

Why not remove the concern and go without the swivel, testing has shown the efficacy of a swivel is minimal.

[Cotemar]

Originally Posted by bvander

Why not remove the concern and go without the swivel, testing has shown the efficacy of a swivel is minimal.

I agree. Use a Crosby G-209A Shackle with Loctite blue.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ml#post1174022
.
.

[Spade Anchor]

Originally Posted by bvander

Why not remove the concern and go without the swivel, testing has shown the efficacy of a swivel is minimal.

The Wasi PowerBall swivel is rated for at least 2000 lbs above the breaking strength of any chain that can be attached to it. The only Swivel endorsed by Lloyd's. This swivel eliminates the need for any shackles on your rode. Making what was once the weakest point on your rode ( shackle) the strongest point, letting you focus your maintenance on the chain.

[thinwater]

If the chain is straight between the anchor and windlass, the anchor can't come up backwards. Only 3 things can happen:

1. The anchor was attached with the chain twisted. There is a 75% probability of this unless you were thinking about it.
2. A twist snuck over the roller when the boat spun. It will come out if you twist while lowering a few feet.
3. You were going forward when you weighed anchor--anchors align with the water flow. You have to stop or reverse.

No swivel, and it comes up straight 19 times in 20. The 1 takes only 5 seconds to fix. In fact, the ONLY way to get a anchor twisted is to have a swivel. Otherwise, the chain forces alignment.



My last swivel, looking like yours, had a crack hidden inside. Caught it just in time.


So why bother?

[a64pilot]

The one you show in your picture, comes with a small tube of red Loctite.
Stupid easy to heat it up with a cheap propane torch too to remove it.
I have one of those swivels, I am very un-impressed with it. I replaced it with a Mantus swivel, which I am real impressed with, I am sure there are other good ones too, just not the one you picture.

[PeaceLoveMusic]

Blue Loctite. However, I have been advised that this swivel should not be directly connected to the anchor, but instead, have a few links of chain between the swivel and the anchor, which is how I now have mine. I believe that this is to avoid the twist.

[bvander]

I feel a swivel is an expensive piece of ss which introduces another point of failure into your anchor system and is really of limited use.

http://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/How-Well-Do-Swivels-Reduce-Twist-11938-1.html

http://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/Broken-Anchor-Swivels-11783-1.html

https://www.morganscloud.com/2010/09/12/anchor-swivels/

[SaltyMetals]

PeaceLoveMusic,
No , the reason for the extra 3-4 chain links between the shank of the anchor and the swivel is to add extra flex in case the anchor is blocked and there is a strong side force which might otherwise force open the jaws of the swivel. Very good advice by the way. there should always be 3-4 links of chain between the shank and the swivel.

[evm1024]

Originally Posted by SaltyMetals

PeaceLoveMusic,
No , the reason for the extra 3-4 chain links between the shank of the anchor and the swivel is to add extra flex in case the anchor is blocked and there is a strong side force which might otherwise force open the jaws of the swivel. Very good advice by the way. there should always be 3-4 links of chain between the shank and the swivel.

So as to avoid something like this....

[norwegian vikin]

i read somewhere,that this part is a weak link,and should be avoided,so i have removed mine,

[barnakiel]

Originally Posted by norwegian vikin

i read somewhere,that this part is a weak link,and should be avoided,so i have removed mine,

There is always some part that is the weak link. What is it now?

I found in most cases it is the shackle.

b.

[bvander]

Originally Posted by barnakiel

There is always some part that is the weak link. What is it now?

I found in most cases it is the shackle.

b.

If you go with a Black Pin Shackle it's HSS, and has a higher working load than the chain. Made by Titan.