Weeping seacock

[Rocinante33]

Those look like they might be “BASIC” brand name seacocks. I had them on my new-to-me 2001 Beneteau (Made in US but I keep finding European components) and I posted about it. They looked fine but for a small weep from the threaded nipples that left had a fine salty like residue. Polished it with a wire brush and it looked good as new.

I went to close it and it literally snapped off in my hand. Fortunately I was at a dock, had my tools out, and a plug very handy so I didn’t sink at the dock. I’m not exaggerating that.

Rest looked fine, but I took the boat out of the water and I removed all the rest. Two more had profound corrosion (out of 5) on the inside, completely invisible.

Evidently that brand has a brass component to it that is prone to such failure and (unbelievably) recommends in Europe that it be routinely replaced. That info/research was all Internet forums as I could not find a trace of the BASIC brand on line. Pink which was the color of the brass/bronze hybrid or whatever it was, where it was in contact with the seawater is now my least favorite color. I’ve replaced everything with Groco. I could grind the inside of one of the other seacocks that I removed like tortilla chips in my fingers

Had been 25 nm offshore the previous day

Still shaking my head…..

[5BTM]

<<Those look like they might be “BASIC” brand name seacocks.>>

They also could be from the plumbing section of a local hardware store, the only way to tell is to remove them.

[deblen]

Brasses and bronzes – Cox Engineering

[Don C L]

Originally Posted by jamhass

For what it's worth, I have had thru-hulls and seacocks replaced in the water. One, where I only replaced the seacock using the original thru-hull (it was in very good condition) was accomplished with no (nada, zero) water in the boat. Another time my diver installed a brand new seacock, including drilling a new hole in the boat, with nearly no water in the boat. His trick is basically using a clear plastic bowl sealed to the outside of the hull. He has one with a rubber glove sealed to the bowl for good access.

Yeah I was going to say that if the thru-hulls are really ok then you can just plug the thru-hulls with those foam emergency plugs from the outside (if you don't mind doing a bit of swimming) and replace the seacocks only. Or if you aren't going anywhere until haulout, just leave the plugs in there until then.

[Don C L]

I have no idea if this stuff is good, but I just saw it so you might try it.

[boatpoker]

http://www.pcmarinesurveys.com/Paul%...20Seacocks.pdf

[afterwork]

Thank you all for the replies. The boat is in Singapore so freezing waters are not a problem. I just purchased the boat and my #1 plan was to change out all the seacocks but the previous owner just took out the boat 2 months go for anti fouling so I was trying to see if I could wait it out until I can do both things at once next season. Haul-outs in Singapore are not cheap. The boat is Jeanneau 2009 which explains why they put these euro style valves on it. I’ll look into this weep further thanks to all your comments.

[afterwork]

Originally Posted by skipperpete

Your photo seems to show that the PSS bellows is in contact with the nearest hose clamp, not offering any advice, just pointing it out.
There seems to be something unusual about the condition of the two hose barbs on your seacocks, what metal are they made from? They look corroded.

Is your concern here that the hose clamp will cut into the bellow?

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by Don C L

Yeah I was going to say that if the thru-hulls are really ok then you can just plug the thru-hulls with those foam emergency plugs from the outside (if you don't mind doing a bit of swimming) and replace the seacocks only. Or if you aren't going anywhere until haulout, just leave the plugs in there until then.

Taking anything like this apart has it's risks. That is why I asked for the boat make and age. If the mushroom fitting is brass also it may crack when trying to undo the ball valve.

Also you don't have to dive. You can push a piece of closed cell foam through the ball valve to seal the through hull. No "special" pricey orange plug needed. Of course in the OP's case you also have to contend with the elbow.

PS. I just saw the PO's response. This being a European boat, 14 years old and probably still on the OEM fittings I would want them replaced ASAP.

[skipperpete]

Originally Posted by afterwork

Is your concern here that the hose clamp will cut into the bellow?

Anything that might injure the bellows should be of concern, initially I wondered why the preload was so great that it caused the hose clip to get so close but it could just be the camera angle.
Your surveyor should have noticed the seacock deterioration, it’s usual practice to confirm the operation and condition of all through hulls and valves for seaworthiness.

[chef2sail]

Avoid the 5200 and keep it for emergency you’ll have difficulty removing it when it come time to permanently fix the issue

[JSSailem]

I had that type of thing happening on my boat. The seacocks would function normally. I knew they were of an age that caused me to want to change them. So I scheduled a “hang out”. The Marina pulled me out of the water in the late afternoon and I hung in the slings over night. I reached down to begin the process of removing the thru hull valves and *SHOCK* the valve came apart in my hand. The corrosion was everywhere but not on the outside.

If I had your concern, I would not try to play around with caulk or glue or apply anything to the outside of the valve. I would be sure my bilge pump was up to the task. I would have on hand a plug I could jam into the hole if the valve broke. I would schedule a haul with the nearest marina so that I could fix the problem.

It is your boat and now you get to make the big decisions. Choose wisely.

[Goodxcharly]

If your bilge pumps can keep up with the flow if the ball valve broke off, worst case scenario.
If you are living on the boat you might be safe. Keep a eye on it. Which sounds like you have. Have a plug handy.
I would probably schedule a haul out sooner. I don’t see any advantages to waiting a year. Having said that you are probably out cruising. I’m at the dock.

Dave

[Colonel Bob]

Originally Posted by MicHughV

Had a leaking bronze thru' hull once. Tried everything, but could stop the slow drip.

Had the boat hauled and took the thru' hull apart and found that the tapered plug had several large holes in it from some type of electrolysis/corrosion as was the inside of the actual housing. Spent hours trying to lap the plug smooth using lapping compound, but the holes were simply too big and I could not stop the leak.

This prompted met to check all the other thru' hulls and found the same situation in several, but not all the thru' hulls.

All my thru' hulls were bonded to each other and to a bronze grounding plate under the hull.

Obviously some kind of electrolysis was at work here, but I had no idea of why or when.

Long story short, it became an expensive haulout. Still not sure today what caused it, but I'd recommend a haulout as you simply don't want a leaking thru' hull on your boat for any reason.

Another strong case for composite seacocks, e.g. Marlon or TruDesign! No bonding wiring to run and decay.

[OneBoatman]

It looks like your thru hull fittings may be of Marelon, or worse yet Nylon which is not what mariners typically use below the waterline. You clearly have advanced corrosion between the hose barb adapters and the bronze elbows pictured which may be leaking or soon will be if it isn't already. And then of course you have the ball valves themselves which usually contain dissimilar metals which are likely corroding and can and will eventually leak as well. Each could create a catastrophe you don't want to experience. Even if leakage is limited to the hose barb fitting it would be safest to plan on doing a short haul soon because other fittings may snap if stressed while attempting an in-water repair. Be sure to have everything you need at hand before you haul. When doing the repair take a bit of extra time to clean and seal the perimeter of the holes thru the hull itself either with JB weld, a fast cure 2 Part epoxy, or otherwise use polyester resin/hardener system as insurance against water finding its way into the surrounding laminate. Do your best to use like metals for the "seacocks" as you call it, should you choose to replace with a thru-hull fitting, ball valve, elbow, and hose adapter. Most believe it is better to not connect them electrically to other mixed metals on the boat like the engine and drive shaft which are normally anodically protected from galvanic corrosion by your zincs.