Replacing control cable on Edson pedestal

[bcboomer]

I'm trying to replace the shift control cable on our old Edson pedestal. The instructions are fairly straight forward but they assume the shifter housing will come off. I tried an impact on the stupid slot head screws, no luck.
I chopped off the heads and removed the plastic compass mount, poured a mix of acetone/ATF down the bolts. Tried twisting with vice-grips, no luck.
Hammering up with a dead blow hammer hasn't worked.

Any ideas?

[jkishel]

Not sure why the housing needs to come off. Can you not reach the clevis cotter pin with the compass removed?

[dfelsent]

Oh boy. Those are stainless screws in aluminum. Others will have more experience than I in removing them. As I recall the holes through the shift housing are clearance holes and the screws are threaded into tapped holes in the pedestal top itself. I have memories of exactly your struggle but not to your degree. On two different boats.
When you do get them out, and you will, one way or another, and when you get the threaded part of the screw out of the bottom with heat or a drill and tapping the hole again use tefgel or another high end antiseize on the whole screw.
You are not alone.
In case pics help
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ss-209431.html

[bcboomer]

Originally Posted by jkishel

Not sure why the housing needs to come off. Can you not reach the clevis cotter pin with the compass removed?

Certainly the clevis pins can be removed without taking even the compass mount but I'm not sure that one could maneuver the 2 cables to one side of the shaft without removing the housing. Edson say it has to come off.
Plastic compass mount needed to come off anyway to replace the wheel brake shoes.
Once the heads are chopped off there is no turning back.

@dfelsent
You can be sure lots of Tefgel will be used. There should be a special place in hell for those who mix stainless with aluminium without using an anti seize of some sort.

[dennismenace111]

No fun at all... my shift cable broke off right at the end where the end fitting screws on.... it was a bear getting access to the cable. I was lucky and was able to use a die to cut more threads in the cable below the break off point so I didnt have to replace the entire cable. It had been installed improperly and when shifted into reverse the cable was actually being forced against the shaft of the steering wheel. Probably had been that way for years.

They always seem to break at the most inopportune time. I had just gone through a drawbridge behind a mega yacht being towed by a tug at the bow and another at the stern...I was overtaking them and couldnt get the boat into neutral or reverse...luckily it was a wide spot in the New River, where I could spin around without running into the slower tow and catch the same bridge opening..

[outahere]

A few applications of liquid wrench about a half hour apart always seems to work for me. Better yet, spray numerous times and let it set overnight then try the vice grips. Good luck. Beneteau seems to be famous for mixing stainless and aluminum.

If you have to drill them out, you can use a helicoil(thread insert) to repair them. The inserts are usually made of stainless, so the new stainless fastener won't gall as bad. I'd still use antiseize.

[Robert E]

Replacing the shift cable on in Edison pedestal is a precise and challenging job. There are one or two YouTube videos that will help. Also download the Edison how to instruction sheets which should be followed to a T. If you’re replacing the shifter cable I recommend you also replace the throttle cable. By the best of each and you will notice a significant improvement in the handling of both throttle and shift. This is a difficult and satisfying job once you’ve done it. Good luck

[SVTatia]

When you say "housing" what do you mean? I have an old Edson and it has 3 components at the top...I have to remove them all for access to the cables. Can you take a picture from the top and show us?

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by bcboomer

Certainly the clevis pins can be removed without taking even the compass mount but I'm not sure that one could maneuver the 2 cables to one side of the shaft without removing the housing. Edson say it has to come off.
Plastic compass mount needed to come off anyway to replace the wheel brake shoes.
Once the heads are chopped off there is no turning back.

@dfelsent
You can be sure lots of Tefgel will be used. There should be a special place in hell for those who mix stainless with aluminium without using an anti seize of some sort.

Yes, Edson is correct.
The shift and throttle cables run thru the pedestal and are secured via a pinch clamp.
Older models have a screw or hex bolt to secure the clamp to the housing.
It's imperative to be sure the steering cables do not chafe these cables and vise versa.
To run those cables thru your going to remove the piece under the compass,(shift/throttle lever housing), you'll then be able to reach the clamp.
If your replacing both cables, I highly recommend it, pull the assembly up and out remembering to attach a sturdy messenger line, I use an old cable housing taped with electrical tape to the cables I'm pulling.
Then position the clamp in the same place as it was removed, then push it back to the hole and fiddle with the screw till you can reattach it to the pedestal.
Finally reassemble the clevis to the cables threaded end you'll want to adjust the "throw" of the moving ends of the cables then you'll inspect with a flashlight down the tube to be sure you didn't cross or interfere with the steering cables.
Under the floor, again position the cables away from the steering apparatus.
Hopefully you have some good access.
Hope this helps in some way.
As far as getting the screws out, since you'll be removing the lever housing, I'd maybe consider a dremmel with a small cutting disc and slice evenly thru the SS screws.
After removing the housing you'll have other options to drill, or even heat and shock with some excellent penetrant,(Kroil) works well for me.
But really, whatever you have to do.
Good luck
Cheers,
SV Cloud Duster

[Bycrick]

I had exactly the same problem with a broken shift cable at a almost deserted island off Western Panama. Three of screws holding the compass mount and shifter lever base were absolutely stuck. As mentioned in a previous post, the screws are threaded into a boss on the top of the pedestal, but are clearance-fit where they pass through the lever base. I spent several days with a mixture of muriatic acid and water, alternately dripping a few drops on each screw head and then having another beer. Since they’re a clearance fit, there’s lots of room for the acid to work its' way down. They eventually came out with just a big screwdriver. Use lots of anti-seize paste when you put them back.

[bcboomer]

The diamond disc on my Dremel sliced the heads off nicely. After removing the plastic compass bracket vice-grips were used on the stubs. The stubs sheared off pretty flush with the housing.
I pounded the housing in all directions for hours before a tiny crack appeared between the control housing and the plate below it. A very skinny pry bar tapped from the inside broke it free. The clearance part of the screws is only part way and lots of threaded portion to stick.
The acetone/ATF I poured down had not penetrated the corroded area at all.
Vice-grips again and 2 of the bolts came out and 2 broke off in spite of heating and cooling the bolts.
One has been successfully drilled out via about $40 in cobalt bits.
I'll leave the other stub until sailing season is over and then recondition the whole pedestal.
Still have to release the throttle cable so I can wiggle the clamped cable up.