Re-Rigging

[Tigerlily]

I am in the market for a used pocket cruiser. Mostly I have been looking at boats 20-30 years old. I am aware that whatever I buy will probably need new standing rigging and would like to know if I can save money by doing some of the work myself. Is this a good idea or do I need to hire a professional?

[Talbot]

I have always removed the old rigging and put on the new myself, this reduces the bill slightly, but means that I have looked at all the attachment points, and am content that the split pins etc are correct and that where the standing rigging is attached is OK.

[delmarrey]

However you build your nest, you and the family will have to sleep in it......._/)

[BC Mike]

I just purchased a 1975 Tanzer 22. PHRF 237 and it sails faster than that. Cost $2750- US$, about $3750- Canadian $ by the time I got it home. Port Townsend Rigging Inc. replaced all the wyres holding up the mast, and the turnbuckles for $575.06 in March 004. To make it race ready I need to rig a spinnaker and get a new larger headsail, and later a main. That will cost about $3500- over the next year or so. I think I have solved the Wednesday race night situation with not a lot of $$ spent, and a maximum of sailing pleasure. The good looking young chicks can pull the ropes on the small boat and have more fun sailing wise, than on a larger boat. At the moment I am building a new rudder.
The wyres for my 28 foot boat were about $700- Canadian. I still have to replace the turnbuckles. The smaller boats are a lot cheaper to maintain.
Michael

[witchcraft]

We have done standing and running rigging ourselves on more than one boat.
The latest job was somewhat larger , given 12 new turnbuckles, still the job went well. All the new wire installed, new turnbuckles,
wooden masts, booms and gaffs painted, wood checked for rot. electrical wiring from the mast head checked, all blocks for running rigging checked, new running rigging where required replaced. Voila new rigging installed, masts re-stepped.
We are fortunate we are able to borrow the special tool we need for doing the ends of the wire. Other than that, time, and CAREFUL measurement gets the job done. For less than any quotes we ever received for doing the wire.
Fair Winds
Witchcraft

[Pblais]

The cost savings to do it vs having it done is about 50% so long as you have stay lock fittings that can be reused and only buy the wedges. Otherwise you'll need a fgood swage tool or fittings.

That was the bid I just got to replace all my standing rigging (9/32 SS cable). The price I got was about $2.00 ft for the cable but it matters where it comes from.

A lot of SS cable sits around and it sits where they make the non SS cable. This means it can collect a lot of ferrous oxide dust that will rust. Cable used by boaters is not made in huge lots as that is not where the bread and butter lies for the factory. So it helps to check the source for the cable too.

If you use modern stay lock fitttings there is not anything technical any more to putting them together. You cut the end square and wrap the strands over the wedge. Just seal them with 5200 and lock tite the threads on the fittings to keep out the water.

[hammerfelt]

Go with new rigging I would say, and if you do it yourself, you can be sure it is done right. There are a few outfits which can send you rigging complete. I like www.riggingonly.com
Also, sialboatowners has some way i think. I saw a complete set for my o'day 23 for about $450, which is not too bad.

I have a related question -- a friend of mine has a hydraulic swage machine. I am thinking of buying it off him, to make rigging easy in the future, as well as re-rig other friends' boats. Is there a benefit of the old fashioned fittings vs. stalock? Are stalocks better?

Also, I didn't realize Stalocks are reuseable. Also did not know about 5200 sealant. Does that make it hard to re-use them?

Thanks.
Eugene

[GordMay]

Yes, sealing Mechanical Terminals (Sta-Lok, Hayne, Norseman, et al) with 3M ‘5200' might make disassembly difficult. One very respected rigger, Brion Toss, recommends sealing with3M ‘4000' or ‘101' (polysulphide).

See: Swaging questions [Archive] - SparTalk
http://www.briontoss.com/spartalk/ar....php/t-65.html

[hammerfelt]

Thanks -- this is quite a can of worms... I read all the links. Complicated decisions. You would think someone would have come up with definitive for certain conditions, given that these are measurable things.... I know a wire expert in our material science dept --- I might send him these links - see what he thinks.

[Mark Johnson]

Removal of Staloks made up with 5200 inside, is EASY. The bond is very low compaired to the power of the wrench! When making up your new, or cleaned up old Staloks, you shape the wires over the cone, per instructions, remove to examine the wires, & make sure that a wire hasn't gotten in the slot. Then fill the barrell of the fitting HALF way with 5200, or 4000, for it's UV resistance, put loktite on the threads (they say blue, I use RED), of the screw on part, and after tightning to "good n snug", go anoyher 1/4 turn. (don't crush) Some caulk should ooze out onto the cable at the entry into the fitting. (I tape the cable here, to keep it from messing up, further up the wire)
NOW... If you didn't put in enough caulk, and it does not come out of the hole at the wire entry, you can do it over with more caulk next time. BUT, You must clean the mess on the threads in the barrell & the screw 100%. This is because the threads that you would otherwise be putting loktite on the 2nd time, must not have caulk in them. If loktite & 5200 are BOTH on the threads, neither sets up, EVER! (Actually acts like a lubricant) When you fill the barrell with 5200 the proper amount from the get go, as you screw it in the barrell, the pressure inside is relieved as excess caulk comes out of the wire hole, and NO caulk gets on the screw threads. (only your Loktite) If they mix on the bottom couple of threads, that's OK.
Mark

[barnakiel]

Agreed - removing 5200 (note - manufacturer recommends a polysulfide, not polyurethane here) not an issue. And the filler is optional - I had my Sta-Locks re-assembled twice by now, no filler, and have not seen any issues with corrosion, crevice, pitting nor otherwise.

b.