standing rigging

[Randyonr3]

I'm about to replace my standing rigging,, My uppers are locked into the mast with a "T-Ball". Now one of the riggers has made a suggestion that I do away with the "T" and go with a standard through-bolt with a spacer in the middle and standard attachments at the top..
Now that we're about to leave, I'm kinda thinking that this might not be a bad idea, as once its changed over, I can repair the rigging almost anywhere...
Anyone have any reasons that I would want to keep the "T"s.
Randy

[Steve Pope]

Just make sure you pin the through bolt if you change. Although I can't think that it would make much difference if the ends of the fittings are swaged onto the wire as you would still need a rigger and a swage roller to do any replacement / repair work. If you are using Norseman, Swagelok or similar type terminals then you could do whatever needs doing yourself. Check where the wire comes from though as there is some pretty suspect stuff out there at the moment

[cooper]

..the advantage of the through bolt and plate is that you can make an emergency repair with bull dog clamps. One length of spare wire longer than your longest standing rigging (back stay) will cover all. You dont need to cut it, just coil it at the bottom and tape well till you get it properly repaired. The through bolts should have anticrush tubes and the join to the rigging must be able to move both horizontally and vertically.

[Kanani]

Originally Posted by Randyonr3

I'm about to replace my standing rigging,, My uppers are locked into the mast with a "T-Ball". Now one of the riggers has made a suggestion that I do away with the "T" and go with a standard through-bolt with a spacer in the middle and standard attachments at the top..
Now that we're about to leave, I'm kinda thinking that this might not be a bad idea, as once its changed over, I can repair the rigging almost anywhere...
Anyone have any reasons that I would want to keep the "T"s.
Randy

The "T"s are a pain in the neck. There are all different sizes and it is hard to figure out exactly which one you need. If you have the wire made with the wrong one, the problem becomes even bigger.

Are you going to do it yourself or have a rigger do it?

[Gallivanters]

I'm certainly no expert, but...

Besides the cost and additional hassle of pulling the stick - I see little benefit in re-engineering your mast terminals.

I've just replace all of my standing rigging (myself) and terminated each with either StaLoc or Norseman mechanical (re-usable) terminals - purchased all online at tremendous savings.

Norseman makes standard T-Ball fittings & Rounded T-Ball fittings (aka Lolipops) and are matched to a number stamped on the corresponding mast socket.

All can be made quickly & easily (even at sea) with nothing more than two adjustable wrenches, a hacksaw and a dab of sealant. I've been using (and installing) mechanical terminals exclusively since 1994 and have never had one fail in 25,000 miles across three oceans.

Best to stay with what you have.

To Life!

Kirk