Cruisers Forum

Join CruisersForum Today

Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 02-01-2006, 11:49   #1
Registered User

Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Madison
Posts: 30

I am in the market for a used pocket cruiser. Mostly I have been looking at boats 20-30 years old. I am aware that whatever I buy will probably need new standing rigging and would like to know if I can save money by doing some of the work myself. Is this a good idea or do I need to hire a professional?

Tigerlily is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2006, 12:28   #2
Senior Cruiser
Talbot's Avatar

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Brighton, UK
Boat: Privilege 37
Posts: 3,578
Images: 32
I have always removed the old rigging and put on the new myself, this reduces the bill slightly, but means that I have looked at all the attachment points, and am content that the split pins etc are correct and that where the standing rigging is attached is OK.

"Be wary of strong drink. It can make you shoot at tax collectors - and miss."
Robert A Heinlein
Talbot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2006, 12:30   #3
Senior Cruiser
delmarrey's Avatar

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Somewhere along the US West Coast
Boat: Modified Choate 40
Posts: 10,447
Images: 122
However you build your nest, you and the family will have to sleep in it......._/)
delmarrey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2006, 13:12   #4
Registered User
BC Mike's Avatar

Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Gabriola BC
Boat: Viking 33 Tanzer 8.5m Tanzer 22
Posts: 1,034
Images: 5
Pocket cruiser

I just purchased a 1975 Tanzer 22. PHRF 237 and it sails faster than that. Cost $2750- US$, about $3750- Canadian $ by the time I got it home. Port Townsend Rigging Inc. replaced all the wyres holding up the mast, and the turnbuckles for $575.06 in March 004. To make it race ready I need to rig a spinnaker and get a new larger headsail, and later a main. That will cost about $3500- over the next year or so. I think I have solved the Wednesday race night situation with not a lot of $$ spent, and a maximum of sailing pleasure. The good looking young chicks can pull the ropes on the small boat and have more fun sailing wise, than on a larger boat. At the moment I am building a new rudder.
The wyres for my 28 foot boat were about $700- Canadian. I still have to replace the turnbuckles. The smaller boats are a lot cheaper to maintain.
BC Mike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-2006, 08:34   #5
Registered User

Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Boat: Saugeen Witch, Colvin design vessel name: Witchcraft
Posts: 383
Images: 14
We have done standing and running rigging ourselves on more than one boat.
The latest job was somewhat larger , given 12 new turnbuckles, still the job went well. All the new wire installed, new turnbuckles,
wooden masts, booms and gaffs painted, wood checked for rot. electrical wiring from the mast head checked, all blocks for running rigging checked, new running rigging where required replaced. Voila new rigging installed, masts re-stepped.
We are fortunate we are able to borrow the special tool we need for doing the ends of the wire. Other than that, time, and CAREFUL measurement gets the job done. For less than any quotes we ever received for doing the wire.
Fair Winds
witchcraft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-2006, 15:51   #6
Moderator Emeritus
Pblais's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hayes, VA
Boat: Gozzard 36
Posts: 8,700
Images: 15
Send a message via Skype™ to Pblais
The cost savings to do it vs having it done is about 50% so long as you have stay lock fittings that can be reused and only buy the wedges. Otherwise you'll need a fgood swage tool or fittings.

That was the bid I just got to replace all my standing rigging (9/32 SS cable). The price I got was about $2.00 ft for the cable but it matters where it comes from.

A lot of SS cable sits around and it sits where they make the non SS cable. This means it can collect a lot of ferrous oxide dust that will rust. Cable used by boaters is not made in huge lots as that is not where the bread and butter lies for the factory. So it helps to check the source for the cable too.

If you use modern stay lock fitttings there is not anything technical any more to putting them together. You cut the end square and wrap the strands over the wedge. Just seal them with 5200 and lock tite the threads on the fittings to keep out the water.
Paul Blais
s/v Bright Eyes Gozzard 36
37 15.7 N 76 28.9 W
Pblais is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-2006, 18:48   #7
Registered User
hammerfelt's Avatar

Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: upper chesapeake
Boat: O'day 23 "Mon Ami"
Posts: 58
Images: 8

Go with new rigging I would say, and if you do it yourself, you can be sure it is done right. There are a few outfits which can send you rigging complete. I like
Also, sialboatowners has some way i think. I saw a complete set for my o'day 23 for about $450, which is not too bad.

I have a related question -- a friend of mine has a hydraulic swage machine. I am thinking of buying it off him, to make rigging easy in the future, as well as re-rig other friends' boats. Is there a benefit of the old fashioned fittings vs. stalock? Are stalocks better?

Also, I didn't realize Stalocks are reuseable. Also did not know about 5200 sealant. Does that make it hard to re-use them?

hammerfelt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2006, 03:47   #8
Moderator Emeritus
GordMay's Avatar

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario - 48-29N x 89-20W
Boat: (Cruiser Living On Dirt)
Posts: 29,326
Images: 240
Yes, sealing Mechanical Terminals (Sta-Lok, Hayne, Norseman, et al) with 3M ‘5200' might make disassembly difficult. One very respected rigger, Brion Toss, recommends sealing with3M ‘4000' or ‘101' (polysulphide).

See: Swaging questions [Archive] - SparTalk
Gord May
"If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"

GordMay is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2006, 18:09   #9
Registered User
hammerfelt's Avatar

Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: upper chesapeake
Boat: O'day 23 "Mon Ami"
Posts: 58
Images: 8
Thanks -- this is quite a can of worms... I read all the links. Complicated decisions. You would think someone would have come up with definitive for certain conditions, given that these are measurable things.... I know a wire expert in our material science dept --- I might send him these links - see what he thinks.
hammerfelt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2009, 16:15   #10
Commercial Member
Mark Johnson's Avatar

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: New Bern NC
Boat: Searunner 34 Trimaran
Posts: 1,509
Removal of Staloks made up with 5200 inside, is EASY. The bond is very low compaired to the power of the wrench! When making up your new, or cleaned up old Staloks, you shape the wires over the cone, per instructions, remove to examine the wires, & make sure that a wire hasn't gotten in the slot. Then fill the barrell of the fitting HALF way with 5200, or 4000, for it's UV resistance, put loktite on the threads (they say blue, I use RED), of the screw on part, and after tightning to "good n snug", go anoyher 1/4 turn. (don't crush) Some caulk should ooze out onto the cable at the entry into the fitting. (I tape the cable here, to keep it from messing up, further up the wire)
NOW... If you didn't put in enough caulk, and it does not come out of the hole at the wire entry, you can do it over with more caulk next time. BUT, You must clean the mess on the threads in the barrell & the screw 100%. This is because the threads that you would otherwise be putting loktite on the 2nd time, must not have caulk in them. If loktite & 5200 are BOTH on the threads, neither sets up, EVER! (Actually acts like a lubricant) When you fill the barrell with 5200 the proper amount from the get go, as you screw it in the barrell, the pressure inside is relieved as excess caulk comes out of the wire hole, and NO caulk gets on the screw threads. (only your Loktite) If they mix on the bottom couple of threads, that's OK.
Mark Johnson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2009, 18:20   #11
Senior Cruiser

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: between the devil and the deep blue sea
Boat: a sailing boat
Posts: 15,063
Agreed - removing 5200 (note - manufacturer recommends a polysulfide, not polyurethane here) not an issue. And the filler is optional - I had my Sta-Locks re-assembled twice by now, no filler, and have not seen any issues with corrosion, crevice, pitting nor otherwise.


barnakiel is offline   Reply With Quote


Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
rigging extensions gramos Deck hardware: Rigging, Sails & Hoisting 0 24-11-2008 08:00
Re-rigging Bill_E Deck hardware: Rigging, Sails & Hoisting 14 23-08-2008 14:15
Rigging Jacothebrave Construction, Maintenance & Refit 1 31-03-2008 08:17
standing rigging Randyonr3 Construction, Maintenance & Refit 4 13-01-2008 05:41
rigging p cleary Deck hardware: Rigging, Sails & Hoisting 3 22-10-2007 11:13

Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities

Copyright 2002-2015 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:23.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Social Knowledge Networks
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

ShowCase vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.