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Old 13-05-2015, 11:32   #1
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Liner to Hull Gap Covering

I need some advice. One of the previous owners decided to use commercial rubber 4" baseboard to cover the liner to hull gap in this boat. In fact they used 2 pieces overlapped to cover the needed space. It looked pitiful. They used a combination of screws and liquid nails to hold it up.
Question #1 What product will remove the liquid nails the easiest?
Question #2 What are some ideas for covering this 6" gap once it is clean? There is minimal wiring running behind it along with the chain plates so I will need possible access from time to time.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 13-05-2015, 11:46   #2
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Re: Liner to Hull Gap Covering

On my boat, it's a piece of thin flat teak trim. But the gap is only around 2". It's screwed into the liner.
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Old 13-05-2015, 12:07   #3
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Re: Liner to Hull Gap Covering

Lightweight oiled Cedar boards cut to fit with 2" heavy duty Velcro to hold in place?
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Old 14-05-2015, 06:18   #4
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Re: Liner to Hull Gap Covering

In general, LIQUID NAILS construction adhesive and caulk products can be scraped off when they are softened either by:

Heating above 140F with an electric heat gun or blow dryer
Coating the adhesive with petroleum jelly or mineral spirits for several hours to several days (NOTE: Mineral spirits are not recommended for tub surrounds, whether vinyl, plastic, painted or varnished.)

More ➥ LIQUID NAILS Adhesive | FAQs
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Old 14-05-2015, 20:05   #5
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Re: Liner to Hull Gap Covering

A 6in. gap is a bit more than I've dealt with but...
Originally my boat had the 3in. gap covered by a run of 1/4in teak veneer plywood mounted with screws. It lasted 20 years. But water ingress warped and de-laminated the stuff. If I had coated it in two part epoxy when I bought my boat it would still be there.
Teak veneer plywood is not terribly expensive, but if you can live with 3 in. baseboard molding (that you can stain to suit your color decor), you'll save a lot of $.


I don't see a 'lip' to attach it to on your boat, so Velcro sounds like a good option.
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