Jib track leaking

[brandtj]

Hi,

I’m having a problem with the port jib track having a little bit of a water leak. I think it’s coming from the sides where the track is bedded, and not the bolts... at least that’s what I’m hoping for. Problem is, I can’t know for sure because the nuts underneath are inaccessible without ripping up the woodwork inside the cabin. My question is what would be the best sealant to re-seal the sides on deck?

[psk125]

You think the deck is cracked and water is getting in through it? Sealing the crack would likely involve filling the recess in the deck that the track is in, making it impossible to move the jibsheet block car: not a good idea. Alternatives would be to grind out the deck on the side(s) where the crack is, and then fill and rebuild the deck. Making this repair match the original deck is why the fiberglass guys get paid the big bucks. It is not easy or simple. And it might not be the right repair -- it really could be the bolts that are leaking. Carefully removing the inside woodwork so as to fully inspect the leaking area may be the best solution. The underside of the deck can then be ground out & repaired, and/or the track bolts removed and rebedded. The wood then gets reinstalled, so no fiberglass matching is needed. Sorry, but in the long run it is probably simpler, easier, and cheaper to go this route. Ask me how I know this...

[billknny]

Trying to seal something—anything—buy smearing sealant—any sealant—around the edges will never work. Never.

Seeing such an approach is the only clue anyone needs that a boat is poorly cared for.

The only thing that will work is to take up the track and properly rebed it. I know it’s a PITA, but it is how things work.

[Paul L]

I don't see how it is not the bolt holes. How else is water going to migrate into the interior? Chaulking along the track will likely end up as an ugly mess and still leak. Removing the entire track and rebedding is the right way to fix it once. If you could narrow it down to a single or a couple of bolts you could remove them and heavily rebed as a temporary fix that might last a long time. Trouble is without being able to view the underside you won't know. If you do remove the headliner to inspect, replace it with a removable one for the future.

[Tillsbury]

The first thing you need to do is remove the track. You haven’t even started investigating the problem until you’ve done that. The woodwork inside should be removable easily to access that — if it isn’t then you can take the opportunity to make it so for the future.

[Stu Jackson]

https://marinehowto.com/bed-it-tape/

[NYSail]

How do you know how it’s attached if you can’t see the nuts on the inside? Are there bungs? Maybe the nuts are epoxied in place...... only true way to fix is remove the track completely, clean and rebed..... use bed it tape as noted above.......

[Dockhead]

My sympathy to the OP!


I had this problem a couple of years ago, and it was a true horror.


It took a whole winter to solve it, and eventually required cutting up some furniture, cutting a hole in a fiberglass shower cabin, and all kinds of hassle.



It was expensive and frustrating.


I will echo the good advice given above -- don't waste time taking half measures. You must get the track off as job one, properly evaluate the situation, repair any damage, then properly bed the track back down.


You will save time and money by going right at it -- this can't be solved without removing the track.

[Bill O]

Barndtj,
From the fixed port lights it appears you have a MKII Is. 30 and I'm fairly certain your decks are cored with plywood. If you don't fix the leaks eventually the plywood will start to deteriorate unless they sealed all of the bolt penetrations w/epoxy.

Will agree the best way to really fix the leak is to take up the track and re-bed it.

Not sure if you have the tracks that go well aft of the cabin, if so you should be able to access some of the track bolts/nuts in the lazarette. Once you determine where the track runs in the inside, use a multi tool or similar to cut a slot (1-2") into (wood/fiberglass) to get to the void that hides the rest of the track bolts. To finish the slot cutout, use a wider piece of teak (or what ever you like) and attach w/fasteners to cover the slot.

Kind of a pain, but once you get going on the project it shouldn't be too bad. You will most likely need a helper to hold a screw driver up top while you take out and re-install the bolts.


Bill O.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by Bill O

Barndtj,
From the fixed port lights it appears you have a MKII Is. 30 and I'm fairly certain your decks are cored with plywood. If you don't fix the leaks eventually the plywood will start to deteriorate unless they sealed all of the bolt penetrations w/epoxy.

Will agree the best way to really fix the leak is to take up the track and re-bed it.

Not sure if you have the tracks that go well aft of the cabin, if so you should be able to access some of the track bolts/nuts in the lazarette. Once you determine where the track runs in the inside, use a multi tool or similar to cut a slot (1-2") into (wood/fiberglass) to get to the void that hides the rest of the track bolts. To finish the slot cutout, use a wider piece of teak (or what ever you like) and attach w/fasteners to cover the slot.

Kind of a pain, but once you get going on the project it shouldn't be too bad. You will most likely need a helper to hold a screw driver up top while you take out and re-install the bolts.


Bill O.

If the deck is cored where the track goes (mine are not, FWIW), then you have a real emergency. You'll have much bigger problems than a little leak, if you let that go. Get that track out!

[Cheechako]

Uh, if it's leaking inside the boat, and the cabin is not broken, it's the bolts.
-Are you sure the bolts aren't going into nuts (or a plate) that are held in place and you can take each screw out without removing cabinetry? Try removing one...?

The only thing I know of that MAY fix a leak how you suggest is "Captain ???'s Creeping Crack Cure" I think it's just a form of latex that's thin and will go into crevices. But I doubt it will work for long.

There's always a way to remove things like that.

[Tillsbury]

True about the plate. Most serious deck fittings on my boat are into a thick aluminium plate epoxied into the deck moulding. Removing and refitting things is easy (and worth doing to add lanocote/tefgel every few years). If you’re unlucky and the bolts are totally stuffed by corrosion you can grind them off and re-attach the fitting slightly offset with new holes drilled and tapped into the plate. No need to go inside at all, avoids having to remove inner linings and have helpers holding screwdrivers.