Cable Through-Deck

[Orchidius]

Hi there,

So, on the stern of the boat, the through-deck for the sternlight is pretty much completely gone, I'll be replacing the cable and adding a few more for the HF rig.

What would your preffered method of getting these cables belowdeck be? A gooseneck of some sort? Some rubber nipple type thing?

The deck is teak on top of steel. So apart from being able to hold multiple cables, it's absolutely vital it's waterproof or I'll be looking at some serious rust issues in the long run...

Cheers!

[Wrong]

Originally Posted by Orchidius

Hi there,

So, on the stern of the boat, the through-deck for the sternlight is pretty much completely gone, I'll be replacing the cable and adding a few more for the HF rig.

What would your preffered method of getting these cables belowdeck be? A gooseneck of some sort? Some rubber nipple type thing?

The deck is teak on top of steel. So apart from being able to hold multiple cables, it's absolutely vital it's waterproof or I'll be looking at some serious rust issues in the long run...

Cheers!

My suggestion is commonly used for thru-deck cable and rubber gas lines. Marine Cable Pass Throughs on Sale

But, before drilling through your boat's deck, consider taking a different route. Is there a plexiglass portlite you can use, or if glass, can it be refitted with plexiglass? Here's how I've done it on my boat. There's another portlite at the back of an aft-cabin I've used in the same fashion.

[Wrong]

Originally Posted by Wrong

My suggestion is commonly used for thru-deck cable and rubber gas lines. Marine Cable Pass Throughs on Sale

But, before drilling through your boat's deck, consider taking a different route. Is there a plexiglass portlite you can use, or if glass, can it be refitted with plexiglass? Here's how I've done it on my boat. There's another portlite at the back of an aft-cabin I've used in the same fashion.

I tried to edit in order to insert my photo but response is it was a duplicate post. So here's the photo?

[leftbrainstuff]

Cable clams

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[HopCar]

Cable Clam

More information
Cable Clams - Blue Sea Systems

[Orchidius]

One of these for each cable then..?

[transmitterdan]

Orchidius,

It isn't the best idea to run the HF antenna lead next to other wires. The potential for interference is high. I would recommend running the HF lead wire by itself and a good distance from any other wires. What is a "good distance"? It depends on the other wires. For LED lighting or other electronic related wires 200mm is probably ok. For incandescent or other antenna wires it could be closer without problems. But an HF antenna lead in the same watertight gland with other wires is definitely asking for trouble.

The other problem with multiple wires in a single gland is the potential for leaks. Most cable glands are designed for a single round wire. Multiple wires are much harder to seal. It can be done but it is not easy to keep it watertight.

[HopCar]

If you buy the large one, #1003, you could put up to maybe three 1/4 to 5/16 inch diameter wires. Blue Sea doesn't mention this.

Here is a picture from the Newmar website. They make a similar cable clam.

DX Series Feed-Thru Waterproof Fittings
Provided with solid neoprene cable gland, installer drills holes and slits as required to
accommodate cable with or without factory installed connector. Multiple cables may be passed through a single fitting.

• Similar to CCX Series except installer drills holes in seal to accommodate cable(s)
• Multiple cables may be routed through a single fitting

Model Drill-Thru Aperture Max. Connector Diameter DX-2 1.2” 1.2” DX-3 1.65” 1.65” DX-5* 2.0” 2.0” *Aluminum Housing

[David M]

If you don't want to pay for the expensive yachtie versions, this style...

[smac999]

the teak on steele might be an issue. A because the teak probably isn't that think to screw into?

but also any water between the teak and steal will get inside. these would only seal between the teak and clam. but not stop any water in between. I think best might to drill a larger hole in the teak. then attach whatever method right to the steal.

if the teak is 100% completely sealed to the steel then maybe you go to teak. but I don't know how the teak is layed.

[crazyoldboatguy]

I have multiple cables of varying sizes that I bring below from the mast. The radio antenna, 3 lines (masthead, steaming and spreader lights) and my radar cable. I use a standpipe. The pipe projects about 2 1/2" above the deck. The id of the pipe is about 1". I can thread all those cables thru the pipe to the junction boxes below. I use white elastic tape to seal the cables and the pipe. The key is to put a loop or trough into the cables so that, at one point, they are lower than the standpipe. This prevents even most water from passing thru. I have had green water on deck with nary a drop below. This works best for me because I remove the mast every fall when I store the boat. Very easy to disassemble and assemble each year. A more permanent-even more storm proof-application could be arranged with this standpipe.

[Blue Stocking]

My stepped-on-deck mast uses a thru hull to which I braised an extension for the U-shaped cable guide. Thruhull is long enough to pass thru both f/glas skins and the core.

[roverhi]

If the wire has no large connector like a coax connector, these are cheap and work great: Sea-Dog Chrome Plated Cable Outlet

If there is a connector that you'll need to pass through, the Blue Seas Cable Clam is the only way to go. Wouldn't try and run multiple wires through one fitting. Just too much chance of a bad seal and leaking.

[Kjretlaw]

Which ever you use, I like the cable clam pesonally, add some buytle rubber cauking around the wires for a great water tight seal.

[rwidman]

Has anyone considered adding a drip loop? Bring the cable down below where it passes through the surface, then back up. This way, water falls of the lowest point of the cable rather than trying to follow it through the fitting.