Bedding Compound That Dries Hard

[rebel heart]

Originally Posted by Richard5

That sounds like what I was thinking. Hull/saran wrap/goop/saran wrap/plate = sandwich. Now how to ensure plate is in alignment with the rest of the vane hardware?

I've used the Marine Tex. I like it. But in your case with high ambient temps you may have to work fast in a confined space.

You could mix the stuff under water in an ice chest to lengthen cure time. Even mix it inside a plastic bag. Saran Wrap gets problematic because it clings to itself and it's too flexible.

The plate alignment shouldn't be too hard. I've already drilled the holes through the hull so on the inside I'll take one of the external plates and pencil park the interior.

Good idea on saran wrap being crap. I've got some ziplock bags I can use as well, or maybe a white trash bag. I don't want the plastic tough enough that it doesn't conform to the hull's bumps but not so light that it makes a friggin mess.

Thanks for talking me through this, I'll report back tomorrow. Hopefully I can find some marinetex in La Paz here.

[rebel heart]

Originally Posted by o_q

This thread title potentially sounds sexual.

I'm going to stick some stuff into some holes and there will be two nuts on the other side waiting for me.

[o_q]

Originally Posted by Target9000

What type of repressed sexless existence do you live in that talking about bedding compound choices sounds sexual to you?

What type of repressed sexless existence do you live in to think this reply promotes your own sex life?

[o_q]

Originally Posted by rebel heart

I'm going to stick some stuff into some holes and there will be two nuts on the other side waiting for me.

This is rather vague

[zeehag]

in mexico there is a substance called resistol- there are many forms of this--including underwater cure like splash zone. try one of the resistol products. isnt expensive and cures hard...this is found in almost every tienda i have entered---especially the ferreterias, and home depot and mega and soriana...and , of course, the marine stores, for those desirous of higher rices....

[perchance]

You could use P L Premium oh wait it's not $20 a tube and there is no mention of boats in the literature.

[donradcliffe]

Think a bit about what you are trying to accomplish. Why would you want to take the backing plates off once they are on (its easier to unmount and remount the vane if the backing plates are fixed to the hull)??

I would just slather up the backing plates with MarineTex (there are other and cheaper epoxy putties, but if you have Marine Tex, it will work fine) and snugly bolt the backing plate on. Once the putty has set up a bit, remove the the bolts, and once it is hard, drill the holes out.

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by donradcliffe

Think a bit about what you are trying to accomplish. Why would you want to take the backing plates off once they are on (its easier to unmount and remount the vane if the backing plates are fixed to the hull)??

I would just slather up the backing plates with MarineTex (there are other and cheaper epoxy putties, but if you have Marine Tex, it will work fine) and snugly bolt the backing plate on. Once the putty has set up a bit, remove the the bolts, and once it is hard, drill the holes out.

I think that Don is correct here: IMO it is better that the backing plates are fixed to the hull permanently, for if in the future you need to dismount/remount the vane it will be much easier.

I had a similar situation on Insatiable One's home built vane and not only were the backing plates permanent, but the nuts were epoxied in place so that no one had to ooze into the lazarette area to hold them.

I used epoxy with enough filler (West 403 IIRC) to make a very stiff paste. Didn't run much and easy to get off the bit that squeezed out.

Good luck, Eric!

Jim

[barnakiel]

A very neat method is to make a teak (or quality plywood) block and shape it roughly then attach it with 3M 5200 (FC). The bolts will come thru this block and you will use (very large) "coin" washers. This set up allows you to spread the load over a wide area avoiding point stress. How much you distribute depends now on the size of the block.

If you are not certain what shape of the backing block you want, build a mock block out of foam first.

b.

[rebel heart]

Some of you guys are right, I'll just epoxy putty the teak block on and call it good.

I don't like permanent non-mechanical fastening as a rule but I think I was taking it a bit too far.

Regarding 5200, I need something with no flex. The pads moving around a bit could easily work harden the ss fasteners.

[roverhi]

You don't have to worry about 5200 and flex. Once the 5200 has kicked, you won't have to worry about the backing pad moving around. It won't be able to move around in any case, it's bolted to the stern. For strength, I'd use FRP panels available at McMaster car and epoxy them to the hull. They will for sure not move and actually become part of the hull. McMaster-Carr

I've got a WindPilot Pacific Plus auxillary rudder vane similar to yours. Used 3/16" FRP backing plates just held in place with the through bolts. Survived a TransPac with no signs of movement of the mounts. With the narrow mounting bolt system on your vane, epoxying fiberglass sheets to the hull as backing plates makes sense.

[rebel heart]

The marinetex is drying as I type. Cut/sanded a piece of 3/4" teak as the backing plate.

Used some bundled toothpicks as dowels (through the bolt holes) to hold it in place and alinged.

The hull there is about 3/4" think fiberglass itself so hopefully this should be plenty strong.