teaking, progress.

[scoobert]

this represents about 50 hours of work, +/- 8

[Crimea Cruiser]

Some progress is better than no progress! Good work!

[scoobert]

thank you! i think its coming out quite well for my first time doing this, ever.
guess the bad part was i had no idea what grit sandpaper to use. started with 120, then 80 then 40 finally 60 grit. it seems to get the work done quickly, but not too quickly. i can use the 120 grit for paint prep on the aluminum.

[scoobert]

oh, as for the screws. they are being removed, filled with epoxy, re-drilled, coated with 5200 and reinstalled. i would have coated each one with epoxy, but with our high temps i can keep it beyond 10 minuets before it smokes and nearly catches fire.

[Bash]

Originally Posted by scoobert

thank you! i think its coming out quite well for my first time doing this, ever.
guess the bad part was i had no idea what grit sandpaper to use. started with 120, then 80 then 40 finally 60 grit. it seems to get the work done quickly, but not too quickly. i can use the 120 grit for paint prep on the aluminum.

If you think you've finally got the right grit, you've still got the wrong grit.

(There's no such thing as a perfect grit.)

((120 for paint prep on aluminum? Yikes!))

[scoobert]

more progress.
100 hours +/- 10
what do you think?

starboard

port

[Jim Cate]

What do I think? Once again, I think that I am glad not to have teak decks!

Better you than me, mate, but keep on sanding...

Cheers,

Jim

[scoobert]

i wish it was just sanding....

[Kenomac]

I feel your pain. Keep up the good work. I'm doing the same thing right now... I have about 100 hours into refinishing my own teak decks, but fortunately, I don't have to deal with the screws. But my difficult part is re-cutting the grooves using a plunge cut mini skill saw free hand... there's just no room for error. I went through the same sand paper progression, and just went down and purchased 15 meters of 40 grit today, in order to increase the speed a little.

If it's any help, I first remove the caulking using a dull box cutter, then I tape the seams using the blue tape so that I can see the lines. I then cut new seams using the mini skill saw. The next step, I remove the middle remaining material using a 4mm chisel that isn't overly sharp, being very careful not to go astray and dig up the material on the side... baby steps. Then I sand down the deck to level and clean out the seams using sand paper and acetone.

Re-tape, place in the barrier-bond breaker tape (very important step)... which is a real pain in the ass, then bed the new caulk. I remove the tape within 10 minutes to get the nice even new looking straight seams. This way, no sanding is necessary after removing the tape.

If you wait too long to remove the tape, it's much more difficult and the tape tries to lift out some of the caulk from the seam.

I hope this helps you; it's about 100 degrees here in the shipyard with no air movement... I can only do about 2 hours at a time with a one hour break in between. I have about 150-200 hours to go. But it's going to look great and save me about $50,000 plus the aggravation of having someone else screw-up the job.

Ken

[scoobert]

so your teak must have been over-sanded.
i still had the grooves, thank goodness.
i did not use release tape, but i also put the caulk on wood, and not the fiberglass.
thou i doubt it makes a difference, the teak is glued down, and screwed down.
as for removal i use the TDS tool. i made a small video on the process, i will post it when i have time to edit it.

[Kenomac]

I tried using the Fein multimaster with the teak removal tool and was very disappointed with the performance. It's been going much faster using just the box cutter. Our decks were heavily damaged by the boat just sitting in storage for five years with fresh rainwater constantly falling on them in the Caribbean and then in England. They looked as though someone went at them with a pressure washer, but I think more likely the fresh water caused the deep grooves.

Thank goodness Oyster like Tayana glued down the deck and the teak is quite thick, so there was room for at least one refurbishment before replacement would have been necessary.

FYI: I've been a professional woodworker for over 20 years primarily working on Steinway pianos, so those skills and the patience is coming in very handy, even though this is something very new to me, where I needed to learn all the tricks on my own... The hard way.

There seemed to be no shortage of experts who wanted to do the work (probably for the first time) for mucho euros... I avoided the temptation.

I feel as though we're bonding on this project :-) Plus it must be keeping you out of the way of those tug boats.

[scoobert]

I plan to consider myself an expert re-finisher after this.
when done i will have done 600 SQ FT of teak.
next to me at the dock this weak is a man who took the teak off.
i love the look of mine much better.
wood is so warm. its Gods beauty.
and i dont think my deck was ever sanded. except maybe the cockpit floor.
i have worked with wood from the time when i was a kid doing wood silhouettes, and finishing them.
nothing on a professional level except building allotment sheds. lol

[scoobert]

Oh, and screw tugboats, at high tide they send the entire marina for a ride, and do not slow down 90% of the time...

[Suijin]

Lord, if I were investing that much work I would be removing the teak entirely and reglassing the deck. As much as I love the look of teak (grew up on a teak decked boat) it's hot, hot, hot and expensive to replace when it finally goes.

I would also be removing all the hardware that is through-bolted on the deck and reinstalling/rebedding it all after the deck was done. It probably needs to be rebedded anyway, and you'll get a superior result from a fit and finish perspective if you take it all off and sand all the bedding areas flush to the rest of the deck.

I think when you get to doing all those screw holes it's going to make the actual sanding seem like a walk in the park.

[scoobert]

i have done 250 screws so far, only going to do the shallow ones, and the leaking areas.