Balmar xt df 170 j10 bolt size to fit yanmar 3gm30f?

[Eastward ho 24]

I've got a balmar xt df 170 j10 I'm putting on my yanmar 3gm30f. The supplied bolt for the saddle doesn't fit it's to fat. If I use the old bolt I fear the alternator will rattle around and won't be good. I'm wondering if any one else has had this problem? Wondering if I should drill out the slot in the motor to accommodate the supplied bolt? Seems the holes in the alternator are a bit wider then the bolt holes in the block.

[gamayun]

Just went through this very thing. Use 5/16 bolt - I think 3.5 inches -- and the inserts (2 of them) at the back side of the saddle that Balmar would have sent you. This will snug it all up correctly when you tighten the nut down so that the pulley stays in alignment.

It was super confusing and I would not have figured it out, but between a good friend and a confusing call to Balmar's tech support, it all turned out great.

[Eastward ho 24]

Thanks I'll look into it. Did you put in a xt 170 and a mc614h? I'm having a few issues with the wiring..?

[gamayun]

"I" installed the 100 amp (60 series) with the ARS-5 external regulator, but I would have never figured out that wiring. A while back, a shop had installed a starter relay, which they had spliced into the harness. This caused us some head scratching. Plus, the old harness had some wire that wasn't needed for the new one. Then there was the starter with its variety of sender wires for pressure, temperature and alternator that went every which way. My friend had done this install before and has great electrical skills, but even so it took him lots of reviewing and re-reading and diagraming with the schematics of the alternator and the Yanmar engine to figure out what goes where. You must have those documents in hand. He also pretty much forced me to try to understand the process so I can honestly tell you I could "probably" rewire it again on my own, but that's the extent of my expertise on the subject. That was the most stressful and painful upgrade I've done to my boat and I literally lost my mind on it a time or two. That's TMI, I know, but wanted to give you some perspective in case you are tackling this on your own and you're not a wiring wizard. It might not be a plug-and-play process that others have made that job out to be....

[Eastward ho 24]

The screw that you attach the temp sensor is also the negative terminal? All the pictures from balmar show a negative stud up top from the older models. The xt doesn't have that.

[Eastward ho 24]

Gotcha thanks. Does any one have a yanmar schematic for a 3gm30f the starter particularilly

[gamayun]

Originally Posted by Eastward ho 24

Gotcha thanks. Does any one have a yanmar schematic for a 3gm30f the starter particularilly

There are two wiring diagrams. Mine is the B-Type, but I can't tell the difference except B has a switch on the panel to turn on the lights. The panel also has three sensor displays for the CW temp, LO pressure and alternator charging lamp. There is also the tach and a buzzer, which mine was not working when we were testing the electrical connections and threw us a loop for a bit until we put eyeballs on the lights. Argggggh.

[gamayun]

Originally Posted by Eastward ho 24

The screw that you attach the temp sensor is also the negative terminal? All the pictures from balmar show a negative stud up top from the older models. The xt doesn't have that.

I suggest calling their tech support.

[Eastward ho 24]

Yikes I thought my electronic skills were allot better then they are. I haven't tried balmar yet I never seem to have much luck with that.

[Eastward ho 24]

I really thought balmar would provide a wiring diagram that clearly shows the xt 170 paired up to the mc614. Looks like they have a generic diagram for all the alternators in different configs but none too specific for the xt and mc614

[gamayun]

Hmmm, I had to download and print mine. Are you sure there's not a link for it in their resources?

[Eastward ho 24]

The one I have is saying it's the xt model however it has an actual lug that's seperate from where the temp sensor goes which mine does not. Did some more research and I think the temp sensor does go on the same terminal as the negative. I think I've got it figured out. It's the internal regulator option wires that are a little confusing. Since im Using an external regulator I leave them (all )disconnected I suppose.

[witzgall]

Chris from Balmar here. All of the XT alternators sold thus far are CASE ground, not Isolated ground. When shipped, the 6mm bolt at the back of the alternator has a tag which identified it as the spot to attach the temp sensor. Here is a photo, unfortunately the tag has been already removed here, but it is a good representation of where to put the sensor and the battery cables. Note the sensor on the 6mm stud at about the 3 o'clock position. This is NOT where the Negative cable should be mounted.

Note that the negative cable is attached where the adjustment arm attaches at the top. It can be there, or one of the other threaded holes at the top. When selecting which hole to use, pick a threaded one - if your adjustment arm ends up on one that is not threaded, then put the cable on another hole that is threaded. It is a good idea to clean off the powercoat there as well, to give create a good conducting surface at the mount point. The lug should mate directly with the surface of the alternator, with no washer in-between it and the alternator.

Since the case is grounded to the engine, you can also choose an appropriate spot on the engine itself.

Whenever you have a question like this, please give our tech support folks a call, this is why they are there!!!

Chris

[Eastward ho 24]

Thanks Chris! I'm pretty much straightened out. And I did find the correct diagram. I will give balmar a call with further questions. Thanks all for the help. One more time the screw for the temp sensor ( where the tag is) is for the temp sensor and I just case ground the negative on the adjustment arm as suggested?

[witzgall]

You got it, Ground on the "ear" for the adjustment arm, or the engine itself.

Chris