Uber newb. Freedom 28 yenmar diesel

[GreenMM]

The second seacock with the branch appears to be a drain to the sea, like a grey water dump hose. It runs forward to the head.

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by GreenMM

Yes, I do think there are several hoses with single clamps.
I noticed many with double clamps and wondered about that, must be a boat thing - redundancy etc...
Well, the Yanmar manual is difficult to make sense of. I've spent about 6 hours altogether reading / deciphering it. Has some really bad 'engrish' in there, and some contradictory things. But I think I have at least the basics that the book points out on the motor mostly understood.

ABYC (American Boat & Yacht Council are sorta like the UL of boats) set standards for every system on your boat. The only place ABYC requires the use of double clamps is on exhaust hose connections and fuel fill fittings. Be careful of putting double clamps on other hose connections as often the nipple is not long enough to support a second clamp and the second clamp actually pulls the hose off the nipple.

This may help a little til' you get Calders book.....
New to Diesel Engines ?

[Badsanta]

When you get the time and before moving the boat to far. See if you can check the fuel. After siting who knows how long diesel fuel can get pretty polluted with junk and the first time out withthe boat rocking will mix the junk off the bottom of the tank with the junk in the fuel and plug up your filters. Also look up bleading the fuel lines. Its not like a car passing air to the carb. You need to bleed to the injector pump then loosen the banjo at each injector and crank the engine till you get a good flow. Then tighten and clean up your mess. You will have to do this when replacing filters or replacing a cracked fuel line. Make sure all connections are tight and pick up some copper washers to replace bad ones. Ifound a whole box at harbor freight.
Most comon starting issue is air in line, clogged filter or a weak battery. You need a good fast crank especially when cold. Lots of info on a very common engine.
You have antifreeze so you have 2 water pumps one circulates the coolent around the engine through the heat exchanger (radiator ) and the other lower left pump, pumps raw water, fresh or salt depending on the water your in through the exchanger to cool the engine coolent. This does not mix together.

[tkeithlu]

Consider getting out a clipboard and some paper and drawing a sketch as you trace the path of various systems: fuel starting at the fill cap, raw water at the seacock, power starting at each source (shore cable, solar panel, whatever), coolant at the fill cap, exhaust at the manifold, etc. Note as you go hoses, connections, seacocks, wiring and the like that does not look right. Yes, any hose that could create a problem needs two stainless steel clamps, and any seacock or connection to a seacock should be strong enough to stand on sideways - which is why another poster questioned those plastic connections. You'll learn your systems in the process, and form a work list as well. Nigel Calder will remind you of ABYC standards along the way.

[Cadence]

You sound sincere. Best of luck! I would ditto the gentleman that suggested a copy of Chapman's. I guess the comment on Port and left caused that. Enjoy.

[tkeithlu]

I've sold my copy of the AYBC standards so I can't check, but "The only place ABYC requires the use of double clamps is on exhaust hose connections and fuel fill fittings" doesn't fit with my memory. Nigel Calder says they require double clamps on all under the waterline fittings, and also emphasizes that they must be 300 series stainless, not 400. The confusion may come because, if my gradually failing memory is correct, the requirement for exhaust systems is a different standard than the one for below waterline fittings. The point on hose bibs is well taken. I've certainly seen some that cannot take two clamps. I think the practical standard should be that if a hose popping off would be disasterous, double clamp it. While you're at it, the quality of the hose is just as important. The seal for my propeller shaft was delivered from the manufacturer with a water lubrication hose (raw water pumped down through the cutless bearing) that was simple vinyl, with no fabric layer at all. If it failed, water would come up the shaft log and flood the boat. It went in the trash and was replaced by fuel line.

[GreenMM]

Thanks everyone for all the help so far!!
We got the motor running today.
55 - 60 gallons of water thru it - and some of it 'looped' from catching it out the exhaust in a 50 gallon trash barrel...

Ran it about 15 minutes. We were pure comedy gold - comic duo racing around the boat and grabbing more water... We could not figure out how to turn off the motor!!
We assumed the key turn would do it. Nope.
the key out of ignition. Nope.
i frantically started pulling 1 2 and 3 wire off the ignition key area hoping it would kill the motor. Nope.
Thinking a live battery pull next...
We thought of cutting fuel but I didn't want to get air into system...
So while me and friend were racing around to get 2-4 more gallons at a time I frantically raced thru the Yanmar manual... found a remote engine kill pull. But of course it did not show where on the boat it was!
I thought the termination looked like this spot low on the motor, and in a panic traced the lines out the back of the engine room with my eyes and saw 3 cables going back up to above deck control area... Damnit... scan all over again the 3rd time... I only see some black lock switch which I assumed was something for the rudder...
Anyway I finally yank that up... and near disaster averted. Motor stopped.

How's that for funny for all you experienced sailors? I tell ya, we got it all figure out over here. In two days we know everything there is to know about sailboats and diesels engines! Hahaha!

So then we changed all the engine and gear oil out with a pump kit. Changed filter. There was much swearing getting the oil dipstick in multiple times...
In goes the Shell Rotella T 15w40 2 qts of it. The oil coming out was pretty dark / nasty.

Then we ran the engine for about 30 minutes on the clock. Easy start up when warm, 1 second and fires. Runs really nice and smooth. Not hot at all.

We ran motor in neutral the whole time. Is that why we never got the tachometer to register?
We did see at one point when crusty the ass mechanic had the motor run at some point it had come on. My friend thinks that may be when he instructed him to throttle up.
Is that how it functions?

That seacock is the cooling water in. And the valve in parallel is 'open' we drained water out of it as a test while we had the blue / black hose disconnected and in the 5 gallon bucket.

I mapped out most of the water tubes / controls. There IS a black water tank up front (small) and a T valve there to switch to 'tank' or 'O'board' (overboard), so we can do both.

I painted the whole bottom hull some marine paint blue. Looks nice. My friend started to teak oil the inside and said it looks amazing. Then we had to leave the yard.
An EXCELLENT day. We are thrilled with the motor and progress.

[Cheechako]

Turning off the key before stopping the engine on a diesel may blow the alternator diodes..... just so you know.

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Turning off the key before stopping the engine on a diesel may blow the alternator diodes..... just so you know.

With the emphasis on MAY. In MOST cases all the ignition circuit does is energize the regulator. Interrupting the alternator output, which in most OEM installations goes to the 1-2-B switch WILL blow diodes which is why many of us have routed the AO to the house bank. Maybe beyond where you are now, but you'll get there.

Good work!

In addition to the good books recommended you might be interested in this:

"101" Series - Quick Links to "Popular" Topics includes "Electrical Systems 101"

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Turning off the key before stopping the engine on a diesel may blow the alternator diodes..... just so you know.

I don't dispute it but how? The key has nothing to do with the diesel but maybe enabling the starter and maybe a fuel pump. I would think the reverse may be the case? I can't see it either way?

[Jim Cate]

Blowing the diodes usually is a result of interrupting the output of the alternator (suddenly removing the load). Turning off the "ignition" key does not do that in any wiring scheme that I have encountered. It will likely remove the source power for the regulator, and hence remove the field voltage from the alternator. This will stop the alternator from producing any power, but will not harm the diodes.

I think Cheech is off base with his warning.

Jim

[tkeithlu]

Sounds like you had a wonderful learning day. Depends on what the key energizes. As you found out the hard way diesels don't run on electricity. To stop them you have to interrupt either the fuel or the air. The usual is fuel, and it doesn't result in air in the line. So, on my old Detroit Diesel, the ignition key only operates the starter and turns on DC to the gauges and the fancy Balmar voltage regulator, which turns on the main alternator after two minutes. Pulling the knob on the dash interrupts the fuel just before it gets to the injectors to stop the engine. The other knob on the dash releases a spring-loaded door across the air supply. It's there for emergencies only; run away DD engines have been known to eat their gaskets from the suction created when that thing slams shut at 4,000 RPM. Congratulations! Think how much more you know this evening than you did yesterday!

[cwyckham]

Awesome image of you guys running around trying to shut off the diesel. I love it! I've done many stupid things with my diesel (one of my best stories is here, along with some advice on how to learn to DIY), but learned something every time. You guys will figure it out.

If you ever find you can't kill the diesel with the pull, you can block the air intake with something that won't get sucked in, like your logbook.

I'm a bit concerned by your through hulls. You need to be really confident of anything that's below waterline and/or between the through hull and the valve. You should double up all the hose clamps and get rid of any plastic that's before the valve. You should shut most of your through hulls when you leave the boat so that if they do fail, they only do it when your aboard and can notice and close the valve.

Keep us all posted on your progress, we love helping keen newbies on their path.

[GreenMM]

Thanks all!

This:
"Sounds like you had a wonderful learning day. Depends on what the key energizes. As you found out the hard way diesels don't run on electricity. To stop them you have to interrupt either the fuel or the air."
Right on many points. I did not know this at all about diesels.

Today was ridiculously comical - picture us running around with our hair on fire. At the time it was happening we were both also laughing about how inexperienced and stupid we were being all the while the water draining to almost empty.

I think this boat was maintained pretty well for the most part from what I observe. The paint coat on the hull looks a little 'flakey' but I guess that's normal for barnacles (I was told).

We will keep this post updated.
I think this is kind of like a pair of newbs buying liter bikes in my world and saying they're gonna race them next weekend - that's what we are like in your world! So I think the dumb factor, dumb luck factor, train wreck factor should provide some entertainment. I am pretty sure I won't be dishing out advice on this forum any time soon!

Thanks for advice on the through hulls. I think that most of them don't seem to have cheesy plastic bits before the valves.
I will say this though: I can vouche for that grey plastic elbow - in my other land experience. I recently acquired a CNG Van that probably got left for dead for a 'blown head gasket' when it was not that at all. Anyway suffice to say, I made an oil cooler bypass with this very same plastic bit. That's taking very hot coolant through it and it held perfectly and didn't leak a drop. Can't say I could stand on it, but it resists pressure and temps well.

[cwyckham]

Originally Posted by GreenMM

Thanks all!

...

Thanks for advice on the through hulls. I think that most of them don't seem to have cheesy plastic bits before the valves.
I will say this though: I can vouche for that grey plastic elbow - in my other land experience. I recently acquired a CNG Van that probably got left for dead for a 'blown head gasket' when it was not that at all. Anyway suffice to say, I made an oil cooler bypass with this very same plastic bit. That's taking very hot coolant through it and it held perfectly and didn't leak a drop. Can't say I could stand on it, but it resists pressure and temps well.

Sure, but when the plastic bit fails on the van, the van doesn't sink! I'd probably consider using something like that after the valve, but never before.