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Old 10-05-2010, 02:58   #16
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Hubba hubba!

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Originally Posted by James S View Post
I built my waterlift from FG
The inlet goes into the top of the chamber...the outlet goes out from the side but it's pick-up extends down to about 1 inch from the bottom.
Given the location I was able to fabricate a riser that is the highest point in the system by 8 inches...this greatly minimizes the chance of getting water in the engine.
Very sexy indeed! Just a quick question - are you using a bellows or some other method to deal with the vibrations from the engine and their effect on the wrapped exhaust to prevent cracking etc?
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Old 10-05-2010, 23:14   #17
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The stand pipe is 316 SS
The thermal wrap is 2 inch FG thermal webing...3 layers.
There is a 14 inch long flexible pipe...belows style, with braided wrap coming off the engine,,,where it couples with the riser there is a support rod.

The water lift was actually easier than I thought it would be. The tube was left over from my new bow thruster install...10 inch dia. I made the ends by glassing over a cheap ball then cutting it in half and using both sides as molds...it helped to keep the fairing time down....but was still labor intensive.
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Old 12-05-2010, 05:17   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James S View Post
The stand pipe is 316 SS
The thermal wrap is 2 inch FG thermal webing...3 layers.
There is a 14 inch long flexible pipe...belows style, with braided wrap coming off the engine,,,where it couples with the riser there is a support rod.

The water lift was actually easier than I thought it would be. The tube was left over from my new bow thruster install...10 inch dia. I made the ends by glassing over a cheap ball then cutting it in half and using both sides as molds...it helped to keep the fairing time down....but was still labor intensive.
Amazing work as usual!

Just out of curiosity - how hot does the tape get when the engine is run for a while? Still touchable or way too hot? I was tossing up the idea of running a wrapped dry exhaust inside a bulkhead and injecting water at a much higher point, but the dry wrapped section would almost be running along the bulkhead, touching.


Intuition says "too hot"... ?
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Old 12-05-2010, 15:36   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James S View Post
The stand pipe is 316 SS
The thermal wrap is 2 inch FG thermal webing...3 layers.
There is a 14 inch long flexible pipe...belows style, with braided wrap coming off the engine,,,where it couples with the riser there is a support rod.

The water lift was actually easier than I thought it would be. The tube was left over from my new bow thruster install...10 inch dia. I made the ends by glassing over a cheap ball then cutting it in half and using both sides as molds...it helped to keep the fairing time down....but was still labor intensive.
Also, sorry to be a pain... (but still on topic of the thread on standpipes! since you will always need a bellows!)...

Can I ask where you bought your bellows/coupling? I can't seem to find anything...

Thanks copiously in advance!
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Old 12-05-2010, 16:25   #20
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bellows and expansion joints

Try these guys for expansion joints: Expansion joints, Stainless steel metal bellows, Stainless exhaust bellows, Exhaust flex, Raincaps Mfg. @ DME Inc. .
Very good to deal with for custom stuff.

Best, Bob S/V Restless
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Old 13-05-2010, 01:42   #21
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With three wraps, it still gets hot, but not to hot to touch, I could continue with some foam pipe wrap.
Just a note...you cant tell from the picture but where the water is injected the pipe that carries the dry exhaust continues beyond the point of injection...the water is actually being introduced in a chamber around it..

The belows was supplied buy Mermaid Marine from the UK..
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