Mercury 2.2 trolling motor problems

[snoopeme]

I recently retrieved a rarely used Mercury 2.2 trolling motor from my dad's garage and have been trying to get it to start. I seem to be getting a spark so figured it was the carburetor? After removing it and soaking it in cleaning fluid and also replacing the questionable gas line I still have not been able to get it started. It was very easy to work on but having never done anything with boat motors I am rapidly running out of ideas? It seems to have good compression after I shot a little 3 in 1 oil into the spark hole and for one brief moment while I was working on it it fired up for just a couple of seconds. I've tried the idle speed screw at different settings.....no seeming effect. I've tried with and without choking it....no effect. Same with the throttle lever! Vent cap seems to be working although that is new for me...I presume it should be vented when running. Anybody have any ideas?

[JeffBurright]

I have spent many hours fighting one of these motors, and it sounds like you've been trying all the right stuff. The fact that you could get it to start after providing fuel directly to the firing chamber suggests to me that it's a fuel supply issue. I'll assume your 2-cycle oil/fuel mixture is appropriate (I always did 2.6oz/gal).

Can you see fuel getting into that little clear plastic fuel filter cylinder between the gas tank and the carb? If you unscrew the drain screw at the bottom of the carb, does fuel pour out? (It should.) You can try starting with the cap all the way off to make sure your ventilation works properly.

Have you taken off the entire carb housing (via the friction ring that looks kind of like a hose clamp) and looked down the throat of the engine? Does the throttle lever open and close the mechanism in there like it's supposed to? Have you tried blowing air down the throat to make sure the path between the carb and the fire chamber is clear? When you unscrew your spark plug after trying to start the motor, is the plug wet? If so, clean it off and rub a business card between the sparky bits and try it again with the plug left a half-turn unscrewed from its housing.

Another issue I've had in the past that prevented starting was improper spark timing. You'd need to take off your flywheel to see the points, and you'd need to measure the point gap with a feeler gauge to make sure it's within the factory tolerance. You only need a screwdriver to adjust the gap between the points, but I've also heard that sometimes the points need replacement. Again, the fact that you got it to run for a few secs makes me think this is probably not your issue, but it's another stone you could overturn.

Best of luck with it.

[JeffBurright]

One last thing: I recommend taking apart the carb instead of merely soaking it. You can unscrew the little bowl and clean out the innards, which are usually where old fuel will gum up and prevent the parts in there from moving. This is the most common cause of outboard start failures.

Inside the bowl is a little float that looks like a black donut, a rocker arm, and a float needle. Make sure you pay attention to how all of these pieces fit together as you take apart the bowl, and don't lose any of the little pieces!

[Lepke]

I have a 1988 2.2. It had sat for some time and had some barnyard mechanics in it's history. I gained some experience getting it to go.
The fuel shut off valve is prone to fail. When it does, even in the on position, no fuel or too little fuel passes. The needle in the slide has 3 positions set by a c-ring. The middle usually works. The top is lean and the bottom rich. Carb kits are available.
Normally it should start with the choke about 3/4 closed. After it pops and dies, open about 1/2 or more. When running ok, it takes 2 pulls to start mine if it's cold.
When not running ok it take all the pull you got. If you have spark, the problem is usually the carb if you have a good shut off valve. Use fuel conditioner.

[unclemack]

Little Suzuki 2.2 came with my boat - same as the Merc AFAIK.

Suzuki manual is free on line, has an exploded drawing (fig. 26, sec. 4.11?) of the carb which helps a bit. Taking lots of good pictures with your phone helps too. Mostly it's clear how to reassemble but there are just a couple of things not quite so obvious around the throttle valve. Mine had been rebuilt wrong & wouldn't run at all.

Undo the clamp and pull off the carb, squirt a little mixed fuel into the inlet with a plant sprayer. Just the hand-squeeze type. Engine will fire right up if the carb is the problem. Quickest diagnostic tool I know.
Ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch can even keep it running 'til it's warm is lots of fun & a crowd pleaser but don't blame me if you mess it up....

Carbs seize up with varnish on 2 strokes, stripped mine down & cleaned all parts with a cut-down (ie stiffer) 1/2" cheap paintbrush and neat petrol.
Carb cleaner spray can work sometimes but cheaper & longer lasting to strip, clean & rebuild.

Fuel tap and tank cap are crap but at least they're cheap. Tank was full of rust from the cap chain spring on mine.
Pour hot water to soften fuel pipe before you pull it off the tap's plastic hose tail.
Oh yeah, forgot... there's a tiny filter on top of the tap inside the tank that can block.

[Pete7]

As others have said, strip the carb down by taking off the bowl on the bottom. Watch which way the needle valve comes out as it has to go back in the right way. Clean out the bowl and valve etc and she should go with fresh fuel.

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, snoopeme.

➥ http://boatinfo.no/lib/mercury/manuals/22-25-3-33.html
➥ http://www.motoren.ath.cx/outboard/s...p-manual-1.pdf

[unclemack]

Can't remember where I read that the Suzuki & Mercury were the same, apologies for my mistake.

I've just looked at the Mercury manual that GordMay posted and there are differences in the carburettors.

They appear to be very similar but the Mercury has a much simpler throttle valve assembly.

Mercury's manual also provides much greater detail than the Suzuki one.

Methods I described still work at least

[snoopeme]

Still here contemplating my problem....hoping to be inspired soon! lol I was in town today and happened to stop by a boat dealer and talked a little to a guy that was behind the counter. I asked him if it was okay while I was working on the motor to take the prop off because it was turning when I yanked on the starter cord and my shoulder was getting pretty tired....and he said it shouldn't be doing that (turning) and sure it was okay to remove the prop! I had actually already done it so that was good. But he mentioned something about the reverse/forward lever and I told him my motor didn't have one and that it was to my understanding a trolling motor. He said all motors have a lever to put it into reverse. I think he's wrong there and when I got home a checked again and found no such lever. That said, now I really don't think I am going to be able to use this motor, as I have a little aluminum fishing boat I wanted to put it on and need to be able to go in reverse too! I have some oars so I guess that isn't a deal killer! LOL However, the challenge of getting this little thing running has set in and I'll see it through! It's practically a new motor with probably only a few hours on it!

This said, I see no fuel filter on this motor, today I noticed that overnight the fuel line went from being full to having an air block in it which is new or at least the first time I've noticed this...... this was after the fuel cock was in the off position overnight. Now I am thinking that this means air is somehow getting into the system and admit that I did not replace the gaskets in the carb and just reused the ones that were there? They looked okay and were not broken or overly worn looking but maybe this was ill advised? What do you think....should I have at least used some gasket sealer on them or have attempted to find a rebuild kit that included new gaskets? What have you done when working on carburetors? Even when I opened the gas valve up the air block remained in the line, so I took off the fuel tank and tried to clean it out to the best of my ability. I saw a little bit of rust flakes in it but it didn't look too bad. I also found a little inline plastic sieve/strainer that appeared to go up from the top of the on/off valve and I suspected that might have become at least partially plugged. So I blew it out and reassembled the whole fuel system thinking maybe that was why I was having starting problems. However, it still won't start. Fuel does seem to be getting through the valve however, so I don't think that needs replacing as someone suggested. And I replaced the fuel line with a clear one you can see inside of so I know fuel is making it to the carb.

I didn't quite understand the advice about the business card. And I do think I am getting a spark because when I hold the removed spark plug against the block I see a spark between the two.

The fuel drain plug in the bottom of the carb. bowl drains fluid when I loosen it so the fuel is getting there at least. I have not tried while the carb was removed of shooting gas directly into the firing chamber? Probably burn my garage down around me! LOL I re-checked the float level adjustment and it appeared to be okay at 2mm. The little needle valve inside the carb is correctly installed....sharp pointed end down as you are working on it....and the choke and throttle appear to be working fine. The only think I haven't gotten into yet is the points. But if I really am getting a spark doesn't that suggest the points are working as they should be?

I'm going to figure this out eventually and appreciate all the comments, suggestions, possibilities, and things to try! If you can think of any more please feel free to off them up and I will keep posting here about my progress....if any....and my failures!

Thanks to all!

Snoop

[donradcliffe]

Your motor probably does not have neutral or reverse. You get reverse by turning the motor 180 degrees. When I was having trouble, I just tried to start the motor out of the water, so the prop drag wasn't a factor. Once it caught it started fine in the water.

At this point, I'd just run down to the auto parts store and get a can of starting fluid (ether).

[snoopeme]

Actually Don rad I have some of that and did try some when I had the carb off. No luck? Anyone ever use spray ether into the sparkplug hole? I've only used ether on an old 1956 Willis Jeep I have and it works great sprayed right down into the carb when I haven't started it for a long while!

[JeffBurright]

Hmm. I'm stumped.

So to review: Fuel gets at least as far as the carb. You try a pull start with the choke on and the throttle somewhere between 1/3 to 1/2 the way between the turtle and the hare. You have spark when you pull the cord with the plug against metal. If you provide fuel directly to the fire chamber, the motor will start and run long enough to burn that fuel. Your spark plugs are clean and dry after trying to start the motor?

I'm also assuming that when you took the carb bowl off and got a look at the float needle, you confirmed that the hole the needle goes into has no blockage. When you took the carb apart, did the parts all move freely?

The business card is just a way to clean the contacts on the spark plug, but you probably don't have to worry about that because you have spark. The point timing is also something I'd save for a last resort. The little sieve you describe is the filter I was talking about, and it sounds like you're able to trace fuel all the way to the carb so that isn't your problem.

I'm still thinking fuel supply, with spark timing a distant second. Could your air gap be caused by a leak somewhere in the system? Are all the hoses tight on their barbs and free of any cracks/pinhole leaks?

Also, to confirm, that motor does not have a neutral or reverse.

Wish I could be more help, but now I'm just curious what it could be.

[snoopeme]

Hmm. I'm stumped.

So to review: Fuel gets at least as far as the carb. You try a pull start with the choke on and the throttle somewhere between 1/3 to 1/2 the way between the turtle and the hare.I HAVE TRIED STARTING IT WITH THE CHOKE AND THE THROTTLE IN ALL POSITIONS JEFF! You have spark when you pull the cord with the plug against metal. If you provide fuel directly to the fire chamber I HAVE NOT TRIED THIS WITH GAS, BUT DID SPRAY SOME ETHER INTO THE FIRING CHAMBER WHEN THE CARB WAS OFF ONCE AND IT STILL DID NOT FIRE, the motor will start and run long enough to burn that fuel. Your spark plugs are clean and dry after trying to start the motor MY ONE SPARK PLUG SEEMS TO BE VERY CLEAN AND WET AFTER I HAVE TRIED STARTING IT?

I'm also assuming that when you took the carb bowl off and got a look at the float needle, you confirmed that the hole the needle goes into has no blockage YES, I SOAKED AND CLEANED THE WHOLE CARB. When you took the carb apart, did the parts all move freely? YES, MOST DEFINITELY!

The business card is just a way to clean the contacts on the spark plug, but you probably don't have to worry about that because you have spark. The point timing is also something I'd save for a last resort. I HAVE NOT GOTTEN INTO THE POINTS YET AS I HAVE SAID. IF I AM GETTING A SPARK DOESNT THAT MEAN THAT THE POINTS ARE OKAY? The little sieve you describe is the filter I was talking about, and it sounds like you're able to trace fuel all the way to the carb so that isn't your problem. I AGREE JEFF

I'm still thinking fuel supply, with spark timing a distant second. Could your air gap be caused by a leak somewhere in the system? THAT IS WHAT I SUSPECTED.....ALL HOSES ARE TIGHT, BUT I DO WONDER IF I SHOULD HAVE USED SOME GASKET SEAL OR EVEN REPLACED ALL THE CARB GASKETS WHEN I GOT INTO THE CARB? Are all the hoses tight on their barbs and free of any cracks/pinhole leaks?

Also, to confirm, that motor does not have a neutral or reverse. THIS IS CORRECT.....I BELIEVE IT IS WHAT IS CALLED A TROLLING MOTOR

Wish I could be more help, but now I'm just curious what it could be. YOU AND ME BOTH....BUT I AM RESOLVED TO GET TO THE BOTTOM OF THIS AND WILL PERSEVERE....WITH HELP FROM THIS FORUM!

SNOOP
..

[unclemack]

Think you said the motor's in your garage?

I'd definitely work outside and away from anything flammable just in case of accidental spills. Top cover off. Move throttle lever to full rabbit and back to tortoise, make sure the needle fixed to the bottom of the throttle valve moves up and down with it.

With the lower leg in water and a heat source close by - heat gun, blowlamp, gas ring etc. - pull the plug, check the gap, wire brush it, check between the body and central electrode for carbon, gum, debris. Slightly big gap is better than too small.

Ideally hold it in a plug socket so you can heat it, then quickly but carefully and without cross-threading it, screw it back in and loosely lay the HT lead on the plug.
Plug doesn't have to be screwed down fully tight just to test it. Bottom it just finger-tight because you're in a hurry.
A couple of mm gap between HT lead & plug can actually help fatten the spark & burn off oil - it's a "spark intensifier" trick from olden times. Google it if you doubt it.
Try to start it quickly while it's still hot. If it cools you'll be quicker next time. (or burn your fingers & give up, your choice )

Without a plug socket use thick gloves. Hold the plug by the top, heat it as much as you feel comfortable with - but a long way short of red hot.
I've held one in a gas flame for 30 - 60 seconds, walked 30 feet, fitted it and pulled the cord while it was still hot, vroom vroom.

They're the simplest motors around - you can do it!

[unclemack]

Sorry, should have been clearer - by "thick gloves" I meant welding gloves.
Good luck