Is it worth it (Perkins 4.108)?

[Argyle38]

If it turns over by hand then I would say yes, it's definitely worth it, especially if you have a place where you can work on it for a bit. If nothing else you could part it out for $2-3k. The Bowman manifold alone is worth over $300 if it doesn't leak.

Change the oil twice.

Flush the coolant, twice.

Then see if it will start. If it sounds OK after it starts, then the lower end is probably fine.

Then have it compression checked (or do that before attempting to start). If that's within spec then your rings are fine.

Deal with any leaks, there will probably be an oil leak from the rear main seal. Not too hard of a job to put a new seal in, especially with the motor on a bench. I would also change out all the rubber seals after sitting that long, and probably swap out or rebuild both the fresh and raw water pumps.

Scrape off old paint and rust, re-paint to prevent new rust and you'll have a pretty sweet engine for a steal.

[01kiwijohn]

At that price, it's a steal!
If it runs, that's a bonus. You could dyno run it to determine if it performs as it should. Otherwise, I'd replace the heat exchanger, pull the head, sump, pots etc and replace the rings, bearings, and other wear items, re-face the valves & seats, and use it.

[leftbrainstuff]

Good price. Very robust and reliable engine. Cheap and easy to rebuild.

The bowman heat exchanger is a good retrofit and probably worth more thqn $300.

[Morequestions]

It should be really hard to turn over by hand if it has compression. anyway the 8's suppose to have a press in sleeve for the cylinder walls so thats a plus the 7.s don't have. They are hard to get out but you can try to press or beat them out with a wood block. Or best take it to the machine shop If there is no water in the oil it sounds like a good deal.

[JDanielBryant]

Well worth it, if only for the Bowman heat exchanger...

[CharmCityBoater]

Originally Posted by Morequestions

It should be really hard to turn over by hand if it has compression. anyway the 8's suppose to have a press in sleeve for the cylinder walls so thats a plus the 7.s don't have. They are hard to get out but you can try to press or beat them out with a wood block. Or best take it to the machine shop If there is no water in the oil it sounds like a good deal.

My machine shop heats block to 500 degrees and checks for cracks, when cooling down they knock the sleeves out. I have seen them do it. They come out much easier than I would have expected.

Phil

[GrowleyMonster]

I wish I could find a deal like that near me. I have a 4.107 in my recently acquired Bruce Roberts 44, runs okay but unknown history or hours. I would love to have a 4.107 or marinized 4.108 to rebuild or just overhaul as needed, for a drop-in spare engine. For $300, I'll have three of them, please. That is a seriously good deal.

[CharmCityBoater]

Hey everyone,

I went and picked up the engine this past weekend. It seems to be pretty decent. I am going to do a few things in preparation for starting it:

1. I need to get it mounted on a proper engine bed for testing. I am thinking of making one out of a pallet and 4x4 lumber. Any suggestions?

2. I will drop the oil pan and clean the inside and inspect oil pump. Remove all of the old gunk. Fill with fresh oil and new oil filter.

3. Fresh water pump does not turn freely. It is frozen. I am going to remove it and see what is going on.

4. Going to take apart heat exchanger and clean inside. Then fill with fresh antifreeze

5. replace engine mounted fuel filter

6. Make sure intake is clean of any debris

7. Turn engine over by hand a few times.

Once I complete the above I will setup a fuel line to a 5 gallon can of diesel and attempt to get it started with a battery. Will also place raw water hose into a 5 gallon bucket supplied by a garden hose. Any other suggestions?

Thanks

Phil

[01kiwijohn]

While you've got the pan of anyway, I'd check the bearings.
Don't forget, when you rig up the 5 gal fuel can, you'll also need an excess fuel return line.
AN engine bed, made of lumber, should be just fine.

[Lepke]

If you have an electric fuel pump, use that to bleed the injector pump and the secondary filter. Then slack the injector nuts and turn the engine over until clear fuel runs. The engine won't start with the nuts loose because there's not enough pressure to open the injector. Have rags around the injectors to catch the fuel.
Before you install the engine in a boat, change the rear main seal. It probably leaks. Presoak the seal in oil and put grease on the seal so the crank doesn't pull it out of position on the first start. Or buy a new style seal from: https://www.parts4engines.com/perkin...l-upgrade-kit/
About $30. Doesn't need the oil soak, but still grease it.

[rbk]

A new Bowman hx is worth around a grand. Spray some wd40 in the cylinders (use the straw to get past the combustion inserts) and let soak if it’s been sitting for long.