Hurth HBW 50 Linkage Adjustment

[casual]

I,am having a bear of a time properly adjusting the shifting linkage in my Boat.I installed a M 4 30 universal diesel with a Hurth HBW 50 trans,I have adjusted this thing to the point of frustration and can't get it rightI have to either run up the rps to engage in fwd sometime's or move it from netural to fwd very quickly for it to engage ,sometimes repeating the manuver 2 or 3 times.When I disconect the linkage and start the enging and bilge dive putting my hand on the trans shift lever NO problem shifts perfect.Am I not getting enough throw from the shift cable,I am using the same setup that shifted the old Atomic 4,I did replace the cable no binding is obious,shifting the trans from the shift lever manually is smooth and easy .As i said I have played with this thing for a long time with no resolution.Any and all advice will be Appreciated,
Happy Thanks Giving To ALL

[nv5l]

You say there isn't enough throw. Does that mean you are also unable to move the shift leaver any further? If so, that might be the problem.

[nv5l]

Btw, I'm talking about the lever in the cockpit, not on the trans.

[casual]

Thanks for the help The cockpit lever goes to the max in both FWD and REV,I should also state reverse usually goes in without the same problem as FWD,I cheked all cable connections all secure.I have noticed that when manually shifting there is play past where the tran engages,the lever will move even past the engagenement point.I have loosened the lever and adjusted it,starting with the remote shift lever in netural attaching the cable,get s close but no cigar.

[Celestialsailor]

Is it the same tranny you used before with the same shift lever?

[Tynesider]

Originally Posted by casual

.Any and all advice will be Appreciated,
Happy Thanks Giving To ALL

I have spent so long on these gearboxes I must have 'masters degree' in them

I assume your gearboxes was working fine before! You say you have fitted another engine but is the bottom 'support arm' for the control cable in exactly the same place as your previous unit?

Also not many people realize the end of the control cable where you lock it onto the support arm is 'dimpled on the inside' to A) to make sure it does not jump out and B) it is in the right position!

I set my gearbox by leaving the contol cable free, connect the end to the gearbox arm 'in the forward position' then tighten the control cable at the support arm.

In the picture below mine is the replacement for my Hurth HBW 100-2r gearbox the now ZF10M gearbox.

Hope this might help and good luck!
Mike

[casual]

The trans and new engin came together,I tried the put the engin in Fwd,attach linkage ,I would lose reverse,play with it until I had both them engageing fwd would would be a hit and miss,deal.Can't seem to get enough throw to accomplish both smooth Fwd and Reverse.I am going to try backing the adjusting fork all the way back shortening the cable length,I should get more throw,perhaps I need to do the same at the top.Tomrrows another day,Thanks again

[forsailbyowner]

any chance you can move the trans cable attachment point lower on the lever? That would decrease the throw required to go from f to r. Or lengthen the lever in pedestal?

[Jesse]

The activating arm on the shift lever usualy has a number of holes to attach the cable clevis. Moving the clevis outward toward the end will increase the travel. If this isn't possible moving the clevis on the gearbox arm inward from the end will lengthen the throw or travel. When you have matched the throw on the gearbox and the shift lever then the neutral detents on both must be aligned by adjusting the cable. It can be a pain in the ass the first time but you know what they say about a job well done.
p/s the HBW50 will not tolerate being out of adjustment or misalignment for very long at all. Good luck and good sailing

[casual]

O Rah,I,fastened the shifting cable to the lower hole on the trans shifting lever,a small ammount of adjusting with the cable fork,Success all is well.
Many thanks for the suggestion.

[Charlie]

While Casual has had his problem resolved I would like to share my experience in adjusting the Morris shifting cables. I have a Yanmar engine and tried a couple of times to get the lever to shift properly. It never quite worked right. With the Yanmar I was able to adjust the shifting lever to different angles in regards to the cable as well as make adjustments to the location of the cable. The cable and the shift lever have to have an angular relationship such that the cable is moving the shift lever up and down. In one of my tries the cable would get to a certain angle and then be pulling the end of the shifting arm. IOW instead of pushing the arm of a clock from 3 to 6 it was pulling the arm of the clock away from its attachment point.

Because the shift lever is adjustable on the Yanmar I was able to set the cable in a place where the angle was correct w/o attaching it to the shift arm. From there I checked the throw on the cable. I then centered the cable and adjusted the shift arm lever so that when it was in neutral it could be attached to the cable.

This got the alignment in roughly the right place. From there I had to make small adjustments to the threaded connectors at the end of the cable (that attach to the shift lever) and to the threaded point where the cable is attached to bracket that is attached to the engine.

By making these adjustments I now have a shift lever where I can feel the change from F to N to R.