We are now in La Paz
, after a week of cruising and anchoring
on the east Cape.
Los Frailes was a bit disappointing - too many off road vehicles and fireworks every night, along with stinky bonfires.
What WAS cool were the jumping Mobula rays - those things are CRAZY - they think they are birds - seriously - flapping thier wings, and sometimes four or five of them jump 4 feet out of the water at the SAME TIME.
That was cool.
The trip to Los Muertes took a LONG time, and in the end we traveled 60 miles to make good on around 40. Foul winds and a wierd foul current
kept us at bay off Punta Arena most of the night - but what a beautiful night -
The milkyway way amazing early on, so Saba
and me climbed up on the foredeck and enjoyed the show lounging on a pile of soft sailbags in the warm tropical evening air.
Later, on my watch, the moon rose red over a mirror like sea, as the Chartplotter
showed .5kts under our nearly silent EP at 100watts.
Around 4 am Saba
"The wind is coming up!"
...and sure enough, we had 3 to 4 knots of breeze, right on the beam.
Up went the 140 genny, and we were off again at 3 knots....
We arrived at Los Muertos after a day of light and shifty winds, under assemetrical spinnaker
most of the way. We arrived at Los Muertos around 4:00pm, set the hook, and dinghied in to the beautiful resturant on the beach, and enjoyed a couple more ice cold beers - Modello's this time.
We wanted to spend a couple of days in this beautiful anchorage, but the forecast
and tides dictated we try to make either the anchorage at Isla Cerallvo, or Playa Bonanza at Isla Espiritu Santo, so we rode
the flood tide and following winds all day up the notorious Cervallo channel under spinnaker and 140 genoa
, wing on wing!
Then, at around dusk, I noticed some VERY dark water to the northwest approaching FAST.
I was just able to change down to our heavy weather jib
and double reef the main before the first gusts of the strong Corumel hit us, knocking us on our beam with the steepest, nastiest windwaves I've ever encountered.
Oh well, at least we were going to arrive quickly - averaging 5 knots beating into what built into a dry gale, with 35 knot
gusts and wind against current
waves battering our little sloop
We didnt use the motor
until midnight, when I deployed it for backup as we felt out way into the lee of Punta Lobos on Ispiritu Santo Island in the dark of night, tacking under headsail only, and using the depth
sounder and Ipad
, before dropping the 200 yards off the stone beach.
The next day we rode
the fair winds and current through the Lorenzo channel, and down past the famous anchorages
lining the approach to La Paz
We didn't use the motor until the dogleg into the La Paz Channel, and then I only deployed it as a backup - we laid in one tack to clear the tanker moored at the entry, and were able to lay the red channel markers after that.
In the end, we docked at Marina de La Paz - again, only using the Torqueedo as back up for docking
against the wind and tide, and again, we essentially sailed into the dock
Just like I learned to do as a teenager in those Marblehead sailing dinghies.
Engines are nice - but they come with high costs - the highest of which to us is the laziness and poor seamanship they seem to foster. They also cost the peace and quiet of an engineless passage
, and the amazing experiences, good and bad, that accompany a long slow passage.
EP works brilliantly for us - with the trip log standing at 1140 miles from our dismal port of embarkation, Marina Del Rey California
- and to the poster who said "there are places you cant go with EP"
"There are places on the planet no boat can go at times - so choose your destinations wisely, watch the weather and tides, and be careful in your navigation. Oh, and be prepared for anything at all times"
It's a practice that's worked for us -
So far anyway....