Island Packet 35, are chainplates a real issue?

[nmcgarry]

I am looking to purchase a 1990s 35' Island Packet. One of the several I have looked at has had the chainplates replaced. The others have not. The broker claims the chainplates is not as big of an issue as everyone states. He said you only need to worry about the chainplates if the boat has been in the ocean for an extended period of time.

How big of issue are the chainplates on an 1990 vintage IP? Is there someway to know if the chainplates are failing? Can a survey uncover this issue?

I also heard the aluminum holding tank is a problem as well. Advice on this predicament is appreciated, too.

I appreciate your candid opinion(s).

My apologies for posting this if other similar posts exist. I searched but could not find an IP section or one discussing chainplates.

Thank you.

[cabo_sailor]

My boat is1989. I’ve had two chain plates fail over night.
Some surveyors are knowledgeable about rigging, many are not. I would hire an experienced rigger. I would also consider replacing them on general principle due to their age.

[GreenWave]

Originally Posted by nmcgarry

I am looking to purchase a 1990s 35' Island Packet. One of the several I have looked at has had the chainplates replaced. The others have not. The broker claims the chainplates is not as big of an issue as everyone states. He said you only need to worry about the chainplates if the boat has been in the ocean for an extended period of time.

How big of issue are the chainplates on an 1990 vintage IP? Is there someway to know if the chainplates are failing? Can a survey uncover this issue?

I also heard the aluminum holding tank is a problem as well. Advice on this predicament is appreciated, too.

I appreciate your candid opinion(s).

My apologies for posting this if other similar posts exist. I searched but could not find an IP section or one discussing chainplates.

Thank you.

A reputable source shared with me that 1999 or later chainplates should be good for 30 years.


Regarding the Aluminum holding tanks... if it were me that would be replaced. And it is a pricey endeavor.


Where are these boats located?

[Frankly]

The typical IP chainplate failure is just above the weld that attaches the SS angle under the caprail/ gunnel. No reasonable way to inspect without removing (a big deal), so if you are in that far install new.

Late in the 90's IP switched from 304 SS to 304L and then to 316L and had the fabricated assy annealed. Should be not future problems with new 316L chainplates.

In round numbers 10 to 12K to have a knowledgeable yard do replacement.

Depending on conditions, failure may also get the mast. Now we are talking serious money.

The holding tanks on most of the 2 digit boats 29, 32, 35 are easily accessible so replacement not a big deal. The 3 digit 320, 350, etc are under the floor so replacement akin to chainplate replacement operation.


Owning old yachts, just a barrel of fun.


Frankly

[RaymondR]

My IP40 is 1996 and it has had a single, long partnered chain plate with three tangs extended above deck level fitted onto the outside of the hull because one of the originals has failed. Does not look as neat as the originals but it is very reassuring.

[Lowcountry]

I owned a 1990 Island Packet 35 which dismasted due to crevice corrosion in the forward lower starboard chainplate. It ripped in half while under sail about 20 miles off of Fernandina Beach, FL, at about 2am. The winds were about 20-25kts and seas were 3-5', so not crazy rough conditions. I lost the entire rig and all sails. You bet your you-know-what that chainplates on an IP35 are a real issue. My advice is to replace them immediately if you buy one with originals. It will cost 10-15k to do it, but it will cost you over 50k if you dismast. https://i.imgur.com/xGnoXxL.jpg?1 Don't take the chance.
Edit: Also, holding tank replacement on the IP35 is a simple job. The tank is located under the port settee, just aft of the head bulkhead. Very easy to access. In my opinion, the aluminum fuel and water tanks under the cabin sole are a bigger issue than the holding tank is.

[a64pilot]

If you go the replacement route, consider having Allied Titanium make a replacement set out of grade 5 Titanium, or Grade 0 if you prefer.
I think IP is crazy to go the 316L route, any 300 series SS, is 300 series SS, there just isn’t really that much difference, if they wanted to stay with SS, then they should have gone with Duplex, but there just simply isn’t a good reason not to build boats with out Ti chain plates anymore.
Either way the Titanium plates are much stronger and will easily outlast the hull. I don’t remember exactly but I believe my Ti plates cost a coupe of hundred bucks more than 316L plates from Garhauer, as replacement is over $10K an extra $200 for Ti is nothing.

It took me about an hour to replace my aluminum waste tank, I had a custom one made the exact same dimensions out of plastic, but added a 1” vent line and an extra 1.5” bung that I connected to a macerator pump so that I can empty my tank myself without a pump out facility, which comes in handy.

I have an IP38.

My next concern is the aluminum water tank, so I filter every drop of water that goes into it that we don’t make through a carbon block filter to remove the chlorine, that should extend its life considerably, but as water is the universal solvent, it’s eventually going to eat up the aluminum tank, how long? I have no idea, certainly not as fast as urine.

Every boat has an Achilles heel as they age, every one.

[altinr]

All Island Packets built prior to 1998 are at risk for chain plate failure, because of the grade of stainless used.
I wish I could tell you how many have actually failed. As they say, you can replace or take your chances.

[altinr]

The majority of aluminum holding tanks have been replaced after 25 years. Most people put in plastic.
The water tanks last much longer, but all water should be filtered through a hose RV type filter to remove chlorine.

[nmcgarry]

Thank you everyone for your words of advice and experience. I will take everything you said to my next boat review. I am disappointed that the broker continues to downplay the chainplate danger. So far I have let him talk, but I think at some point I will have to politely disagree.

I am looking at two IPs, one is fully loaded with a bow thruster but is a 1990. The other is a 1994, no thrusters but very well maintained. The 1994 had the holding tank replaced with plastic. The water and fuel are aluminum. I guess I have my work cut out for me.

Thanks again!

[Cheechako]

IP is not the only maker to enclose chainplates in glass. I would think it's all a matter of how well the boat has had the plates maintained/sealed over the years. Most makers used 304 SS , until more recently.

[WSMFP]

How much furniture do you need to remove to get at them?

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

IP is not the only maker to enclose chainplates in glass. I would think it's all a matter of how well the boat has had the plates maintained/sealed over the years. Most makers used 304 SS , until more recently.

That is the claim many make, problem is, did the PO, or PO’s reseal them religiously?
Also it’s my understanding from someone that really knows metal, that once is all you need, once you get salt down in there, you now have an electrolyte and corrosion will occur.
Having said that mine at 27 yrs old were fine, probably had at least 10 more years left on them, but there was no way of knowing that except to remove them, and only a fool would put them back, even if they visually inspected fine.

Your right thing there are many, many boats out there with encapsulated chain plates, but IP’s get most of the press, I can only assume it’s because IP’s seem to hold their value well.
I also heard from a couple of well respected Brokers that chain plate replacement is one of the very few things you can do to an IP that will increase resale value, most of everything else won’t, but people will pay more for a boat with newer chainplates if it’s an IP. I assume the chain plate issue is well publicized.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by WSMFP

How much furniture do you need to remove to get at them?

A lot, I watched daily the progress on mine at Mack Sails, it took a talented kid about 6 weeks working every day to R&R the furniture.
They had done so many at Mack Sails that they have it down to almost a production line. First every single everything has to come out of the boat, every piece of everything you have in there, or else you will never get the fiberglass dust out of every nook and cranny.
They had just finished a boat ahead of ours and about two weeks in, the next boat arrived and was in line, he had one fail. I’ve heard of many failures, but this thread is the only dismantling I have heard of.
I would have thought loosing a stay would almost always be followed by loosing the mast, but apparently not always.

I’ve not seen any external chainplates on an IP, but suppose it’s possible, your still removing quite a bit of furniture though to access the backside, and perhaps that’s why it’s uncommon.
I’ve not heard of any other Ti chain plates on an IP either and am sure that’s because people just don’t know to, or suppose it’s way more expensive.


Chain plates on any boat are a ticking time bomb, just as is the rest of the rigging, only real way I know to guarantee that bomb won’t go off, is periodic replacement. I personally don’t believe you can visually inspect them, it would take X-ray in my opinion and as they don’t cost much, why would anyone not replace them with new, it’s no more work and only a little more money.

I’m talking SS chainplates, there are metals that should last as long or longer than the hull, bronze ought to last a good long time, and probably duplex as well, and of course Titanium.

[a64pilot]

I posted a thread a couple of years ago on the replacement of my chainplates, with pictures etc as the boat was disassembled, that thread still exists I’m sure.

On edit I believe this is it.

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...nt-188085.html