Cabin Soles Botched - Little Help?

[ssullivan]

Ok, I had posted before about a different type of cabin sole approach we were trying. Well... it looked like crap. I'm back to square one.

Does anyone know where I should begin?

I have 5/8" teak and holly panels now. They are different colors, due to the action of the sun over the past 20 years or so. They are also trashed from a varnish/urethan perspective and have chunks out of them on the corners, etc... They are junk.

We have to install a new cabin sole and I'm starting from scratch. For a resonable amount of money, how can I get the cabin sole looking good, with stripes in it like the traditional teak and holly or the rubber and teak?

I don't want to spend the next 2 months trying to apply finish. Is there any pre-made stuff that has the shine of a well done varnish/urethane job? How can I save on the materials? I really don't want to spend more than a 1 boat unit (a grand) on this. Is there any way I can achieve this?

Anybody know where I can get any deals on Ipay/holly or teak/holly or anything that will look good in 5/8" 4x8 sheets?

Thanks so much.

[Talbot]

I have carpet on all my interior decks (except the shower) - much nicer on the feet, especially on those cold mornings. We wash them once a year, and hoover them regularly and they are the best compromise for our boat (but does need a dry boat)

[Alan Wheeler]

Sean mate. you have the dramas don't you.
Firstly, yes someone does produce a seet product that has the Teak and Holly as a vineer. No idea where you will find it over side of the big pond though.
Just quickly on the old panels, don't worry about the fading from light. That is in the finish only, it will sand up very nicely. Teak is pretty much bullet proof from such things. Hollycan be damaged by water stains. OK, so the finish is the problem for you, but I know no other product ready to go apart from carpet. If you went carpet, you have to get one made specificaly for Bathrooms as it is synthetic and waterproof. We have carpet. Personaly, I am not sure I like it and would love a tinber floor. But it does have some real pluses as Talbot has described.
The imitation Teak will not suit you. Looks OK outside, but it doesn't "feel" right inside under foot and it doesn't look totaly real. Plus you can't finish it with a nice gloss.
The other poblem you may have, I have no idea how you would replace a floor for a grand. Well, you certainly couldn't here anyway.

[irwinsailor]

I bought my teak and holly from Public lumber in Detroit. They had the best price by far.

[Pblais]

You might look at some of the manufactured interior flooring like Mannington (what we have) or Tarket. These are very top of the line companies. I did the whole house with it. It is made in strips about 3 inches wide. Each board connects with tounge and groove and are glued down. It's a factory applied finish that is warranted for 25 years. The finsh is as a tough as anything I've ever seen. It is a tatin finish not high gloss. You only use clear water to clean it. It comes in all woods. If you could use the the floor you have as a base you could apply it over the top. It is constructed of a ply material and is exceptionally stable. Bore so than ordinary solid hardwood flooring.

The trick would be setting a base line then doing all the cutting and appling a molding around the perimeter. Doing the house I had it installed for $9 / sq ft, but I think you could buy just the material it for less. Measuring and cutting would be the real chore, plus finishing the edges for any floor hatches. A lot of detail cutting BUT the finish would be perfection. On the cheap Pergo would wear very well but it feel like plastic and frankly looks like it too.

I think it has to be a better quality than the basic teak and holly manuafacture plywood you can buy. You do need a good flat solid sub base to apply it on.

If there was any serious down side it would be flooding. Not all products will handle it well. Most flooring mad of wood expands - a lot! I live in a duplex that had radiators burst in the winter. The expansion can be so large that it can blow out the sides of the building. This was with natuarl oal flooring and the contactor removed all the flooring within 2 days because of that problem. I don't think ply base flooring does this any where near as much.

It may however be more what you are asking for and I really like the look. I have about $25,000 of the stuff in the house and it is exceptionally nice.

[ssullivan]

Whew... I guess I better not try to cut any more corners. Thanks for all the input here. It's very helpful in trying to figure out what to do next.

Wheels: I sure do have the dramas! ha ha ha That's how it goes when you take a boat that looked like crap when you bought it and make it look like this:

http://www.bnbonthewater.com/accommodation.htm

Had to share the new picture with you guys. This was all made possible with your input and help, and I really appreciate it. Couldn't have done it without you all. Seriously.

The floors are basically all we have left. I think I'll go for the real deal and have someone else put the finish on. I'll use the expensive stuff and just bite the bullet in hopes it will pay for itself in more charters.

Let me know what you all think of the photos... I'm dying to hear if you like the results.

[GordMay]

Sean: I reviewed the photos of your beautiful interior, and didn’t spot anywhere where it appeared you skimped on quality in favour of economy. I’m glad to hear you’re not starting now. You’ve done a wonderful job!

FWIW: Your crew may appreciate lever type passage sets, over the round door knobs installed.

With reference to the above noted project, we have carried out a general review of the construction of the Mechanical work in conformance with Section 78 of Ontario Regulation 941, made under the Professional Engineers Act, 1990.

The work was found to be in general compliance and conformity to the Mechanical drawings and specifications, and all known amendments thereto, prepared for the project by Cuthbertson, under the seal of A. Troy Erickson, P. Eng., and the Ontario Building Code Ontario Regulation 413/90, and amending regulations 153/93, 160/93, including Part 6 - Heating, Ventilating, and Air-Conditioning.

The building site, as it relates to Mechanical components of the required work, in our opinion, is suitable for occupancy.

This report applies only to the components of the building which were designed by Cuthbertson, Specifically, MECHANICAL.

Yours very truly,
Cuthbertson
Gord May, Project Coordinator

[Alan Wheeler]

Sean, for a computer geek, your not to darn shabby on the end of some tools, are you. Well done. That is just stunning.
Only comment I have to make, I see a thing on a wall that looks like a smoke detector. If it is, then get it up on the ceiling. Don't worry about what it looks like mate, once smoke gets down to that level to set it off, it's all over. Too late. Your all toast. I has to be up on the ceiling. And if it's not the smoke alarm, then these words don't really They are just the figment of everyones imagination.

[CaptainK]

Sean.

What I can say about all the work done to your boat is outstanding!!! :cubalibre

And like what Alan said. For a computer geek, you've done a great job. And you knew your way around with the tools. I wouldn't mentally beat yourself up over the soles. So far from what you have. You actually out done yourself.

Me thinks you should go carpet. By far the cheapest method. And they do stand up well to foot traffic. Just vacuum weekly. Shampoo it twice or three times a year. Depending on how much guests you get per year?

I say, you're doing fine Sean. Have a drink on me.

Gord, you need to engrave that on a plate and mail to Sean to affix to the vessel
Great job Sean. You should be getting job offers from Swan in no time Really looks 5 star.

[ssullivan]

Thanks for all the compliments, guys. I seriously wouldn't have been able to do it without all of the input I got on this board. I wasn't shy about asking questions, since I've never had to re-fit a boat before at this level. Unfortunately, I know a lot more about scrubbing and waxing... ha ha

I agree Gord. The round knobs are a bit annoying. They are strange in general, since they are only round on the side that faces the salon. The other side is a swinging lever type.

[capt lar]

My marina, Kingman, is starting to do a lot of projects with "Flexiteek Deck Systems". Their lead carpenter, and now I, am impressed with the look this plastic product gives. It comes presanded on the top which makes it look like new teak. The bottom has ridges so it will bed into the adhesive. Not too tough to install. Do a google. Kingman is now connected with manufacturer, so you could probably order thru them.

Larry

[ssullivan]

Ok... our plan is now settled, after much wrestling with this project.

We plan to do this right, and use only 5/8" teak and holly flooring. I'll give the urethane/varnish/etc.. another shot, but will thin it down with mineral spirits and follow the processes laid out by you wood working experts in other threads and PMs.

Good News: Not EVERY piece of our cabin sole is junk. I might have to buy one or two sheets of the 5/8" teak and holly ply, so not a big deal $$ wise.

I remembered what Wheels said about the discoloration of the teak not really having to do with the teak itself, but the current varnish that's applied to it.

With that said.... can anyone suggest a good brand of whatever the heck I'm supposed to use for a varnish/urethane type sealant? One characteristic that is important is drying time and the time it takes for us to be able to walk on it again. These are important because I have so many charters going on in May and it will see some traffic during that time.

Thanks!

[Jon D]

Sean

Check out Ultimate Sole -- we are truely impressed - easy to put on, high gloss and anti-slip to boot..

[Lodesman]

Sean,

The saga continues. FWIW I like Varathane products http://www.rustoleum.com/brand.asp?f...nd_id=21&SBL=1
I actually prefer the water-based version, as it goes on crystal clear and doesn't yellow. Of course if you want that amber hue, go with oil-based. I wouldn't worry about the water-proofness of water-based products - once they cure, they're completely waterproof. Note that Varathane has a water-base outdoor spar urethane. I think it's essentially the same as the indoor product with the addition of UV protectants. The website has some hints/tips for how to do it. Don't shake or agitate the can - stir gently and let it settle. I personally prefer to spray, but you can get a decent finish by brush. You may want to thin the first coat - I think the rule of thumb is no more than 10% thinner by volume. If your marina has room you may want to set up a makeshift tent (poly sheeting stapled to 2x2s) - might make the process cleaner and less frustrating than doing it in the cockpit.
Another option for doing it on the cheap - do you have any community colleges or high schools nearby with woodwork programs. You might be able to convince the teacher to "teach" finishing - you provide the materials of course. No guarantee with the end result though.

Bet you wish you went with the cork, eh? I just found this: www.seacork.com - it might be what Scott was referring to way back on past threads. If you can read French, it'll make more sense than the English translation.
Cheers,

Kevin