One for One Replacement

[SV-Essayons]

I have a Rule-Mate 750 GPH in my bilge. The Float no longer works. I went looking for a replacement. Rule-Mate shows up as over $100US. There look like a gazillion alternatives on Amazon for under $50.

Is there a particular brand or model that I can swap for and not have to rewire and replumb the whole thing?

2001 Hunter 340
SV Essayons

[SV-Essayons]

No one?

Anyone have any input or advice on best or least complicated ways to change out a bilge pump? Maybe not a one for one where I unplug the one that's in there and plug in a new one, but advice on how to best map the power and wiring so the new one works right the first time?

[Pandor]

What is your specific question?

[SV-Essayons]

Originally Posted by Pandor

What is your specific question?

If there is another make/model pump that is electrically "plug and play" with the power clip on the Rule-Mate 750 that's already in there, or if not, advice on rewiring the replacement and how difficult/easy that really is.

[Pandor]

You need a set of heat shrink connectors and a crimping tool on your boat. Probably more important than most other spares.

But you also shouldn’t go cheap on your bilge pump. Stick with a reputable brand. In your case, spend the extra $ and replace like for like.

[rls8r]

When I look, I see that most 'automatic' bilge pumps (those with internal float switches) have the same wiring as your current one. If you plan to stay with an automatic pump then simply cut the wires to your current pump and connect them to the wires on your new pump (matching the colors, of course). In any case - you see from Pandor's graphics that the 'auto' wire from the switch is brown and the 'manual' wire from the switch is brown/white. Just look in the installation pamphlet for your new pump and see what colors those wires are and connect them to the appropriate switch wires. Easy peasy!

If you want to go with a non-automatic bilge pump and an external pump-activating switch then the wiring is just a bit different - but you can still use most of what you have (including the 3-way "on-off-automatic" pump switch). I didn't go with a float switch since they tend to be pretty unreliable, they may get jammed by debris in the bilge, and they'll activate the pump regardless of what liquid is in the bilge. If you have an oil spill (lubricating or fuel) at some point, the bilge pump will activate and pump the oil overboard. Not good. I use a Water Witch electronic switch.

Pandor's advice on getting connectors and a crimper is good (if you don't already have them). Be aware, though, that there are various types of connectors; heat-shrink, vinyl and nylon. You have to use separate adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing with the vinyl and nylon connectors. Note that whichever type you choose to use - you should get the crimper that is made for that type of connector. Some crimpers can crimp all of the various types; some can't.

[HeinSdL]

... and maybe on a future occasion make the title of the thread a bit more insightful

[jeffandlori]

If what we are seeing in your picture is an actual plug, rather than a strain relief boot, you don't want to replace that with like anyway. Having a quick disconnect type plug down in the bilge is a terrible idea that is bound to corrode and fail. You want a new 3 wire pump with long enough leads so that you can make splices that are not submerged in any normal scenario. Use a VOM to understand which wires are which and reference the above diagram.

[GordMay]

‘Rule-Mate’ bilge pump instructions, including wiring:
➥ https://www.xylem.com/siteassets/bra...0-1100-gph.pdf

➥ https://flutech-marine.com/mediafile...%2010_2012.pdf

Float Switches ➥ https://www.xylem.com/siteassets/bra...lus-models.pdf

The ‘Rule-Mate’ series of automated bilge pumps feature a pump and a solid state electronic water sensing device in a single, compact housing. When water rises, the pump turns on automatically. After the water is pumped out, another sensor shuts the pump off. The sensors' unique field effect technology is eco-friendly because they only sense the dielectric constant of water. If oil instead of water is entering the bilge, the pump will not turn.

Evidently, the Rule-Mate 750 Submersible Bilge Pump is now obsolete, replaced by the Rule-Mate 800.