Techniques for securing new wiring

[sarafina]

So the time has come to run the new wiring. The electrical plan is done, the amps and watts and loads calculated, the distribution of appliances on the breaker board determined and the lights and electrics (mostly) installed.

I have read of running the wiring along the old routes and using the old wiring as a base for securing the new. That won't work for us as the wiring will be following new paths, not old ones.

What clever methods have you all used to keep the wires neat, and in place; along the hull, up under the edge of lockers and across small expanses of open area.

Pretty and easy is an extra bonus, but clever and effective has merit as well.

Bring it on, oh wiring gurus ; -)

[DeepFrz]

Wiring chase. Electrical conduit. Split loom. Split wire conduit. Cable ties. You may be able to find fasteners here.
Marine Grade Wire Connectors, Terminals, Ties, Clamps and Accessories

20 PC Cushion Cable Clamps Wire Fasteners Electrical Brake Line Hose Marine Auto | eBay

Edit: I assume that you know not to screw fasteners into the fiberglass. Epoxy a piece of wood to attach the fasteners to or use glue on fasteners.

[FlyingCloud1937]

Originally Posted by sarafina

So the time has come to run the new wiring. The electrical plan is done, the amps and watts and loads calculated, the distribution of appliances on the breaker board determined and the lights and electrics (mostly) installed.

I have read of running the wiring along the old routes and using the old wiring as a base for securing the new. That won't work for us as the wiring will be following new paths, not old ones.

What clever methods have you all used to keep the wires neat, and in place; along the hull, up under the edge of lockers and across small expanses of open area.

Pretty and easy is an extra bonus, but clever and effective has merit as well.

Bring it on, oh wiring gurus ; -)

First never abandon old and unused wiring in place always demo the old.

The most elegant solution to mounting to a plastic hull is the Weld-Mount system.

Always run large amperage cable by themselves in pairs pos/neg.

Always keep separate the AC and DC systems, never together in the same raceway, only cross at 90 degrees. When running DC always pos/neg returns together.

It's that simple.

Lloyd

[J_m]

I agree with removing the old wiring wherever possible -- you will regret it later if you don't ... and with copper scrap prices presently pretty high it can add up at the scrap yard. Enough to likely help you pay for fancier support systems for the new wiring.

[MysticGringo]

Label every chance you get!!!!! When chasing wires later because something isn't working or you want to add, or change stuff, it'll help incredibly. I label all my new stuff in any new area it runs. It's overkill, but it's saved me headaches.

Don't label only wires, but both sides of inline fuses, and the leads to the breakers.

[Jd1]

Originally Posted by FlyingCloud1937

The most elegant solution to mounting to a plastic hull is the Weld-Mount system.

NICE !!!

[bobconnie]

And make a drawing of your systems both DC and AC, before ya start and after your finished, cus they never come out just the way ya palnned !! (don't ask how I know this rule) Sure helps in the future !! This and the above Ideas will make the job workman like !!

[Reefmagnet]

Sikaflex for glue, split loom, ties and pvc trunking (with the removable cover to allow future access) works a treat. I also made my wiring like a car loom with strategically placed connectors to theoretically allow swap out replacement of components down the track. I used lanolin grease on the connectors for corrosion protection.

[Ex-Calif]

Sara - Here is what I am doing...

I made up strips of fairly hardwood and bonded them into the lockers and bilges with 5200. Wiring will be secured with "Adel" clamps or zip ties with screw holes.

I am not sure if this is best but I wanted hangers and I didn't want to drill the wood strips in. I also bonded before paint so that it is a wood to fiberglass bond, not paint to paint bond.

I did not use enough 5200 in the beginning and I need to seal the edges in several places - In hindsight it may have been better to paint the wood to protect it from moisture first.

Photo 1 - Before situation - Typical wire nest, zip tied together laying all over the place.
Photo 2 - Aft locker - Early attempt - too much gap, not enough 5200. These strips are for solar, autopilot, stern light wiring - they go low, next to the cockpit drain and enter the bilge below cockpit floor. There is an overhead strip under the edge running aft
Photo 3 - Bilge starboard side - note I installed an overhead strip for wires that will have to cross laterally
Photo 4 - Bilge port side.

[sartorst]

One of these things I despise is seeing open wiring in the cabin so I use the plastic flex conduit for short distances or for long runs I cut PVC pipe in half screw it down with wiring under it with a screw long enough to allow wires to be tucked in and the tightened,also you can cut 90% 45% end pieces as needed and a little sanding will remove the lettering from the outside