LINK 2000 - CAN "LOWBAT" MESSAGE BE WRONG?

[bobofthenorth]

For those of you with a defective Link the Bogart Trimetric 2025 will provide all the monitoring features of the Link system in a much easier to understand package. The other big difference is that Bogart supports what they sell. I chucked my Link overboard about a year ago now and have never missed it.

[Opie91]

Savannah,

Please take a picture of the shut assembly and post it on this thread. If we are able to look at it we may be able to answer your questions. I suspect some of your shunt wires are misplaced.

Did the unit ever work properly or did you just get the boat?

[Savanna]

Originally Posted by Opie91

Savannah,

Please take a picture of the shut assembly and post it on this thread. If we are able to look at it we may be able to answer your questions. I suspect some of your shunt wires are misplaced.

Did the unit ever work properly or did you just get the boat?

Hi Opie91,

Many thanks for following up further with me. I expected to see a shunt which was the same as that shown in the diagram in the Link 2000 manual, but what I found was smaller and simpler as shown in the photo. Perhaps this is because it was set up to monitor and control only one battery bank.



We have owned the boat for about 20 months, and when we took possession the Link 2000 was not working. However when I cleaned up all the electrical contacts it resumed working and it continued to work fine until about 1 month ago when the "LOBAT" started flashing.

I have now set the Ah capacity for Bat2 to 1000, left the discharge floor at 100%, and reset the Ahs to zero. This should keep the "LOBAT" from flashing for a while at least, but if you can see anything in the wiring in the photo that might suggest a permanent fix, then I would be very keen to hear about it and to give it a try.

[LJH]

Savanna,

Nice to see uncluttered wiring! I think that the shunt you have pictured is the alternator (positive) shunt that is used by your voltage regulator to sense the charging current.

The monitor uses a battery shunt that is on the negative side of the batteries. Trace the negative cable from you battery bank and you should find it.

[CharlieJ]

I agree with LJH having just troubleshot two Link 2000's in the last week!

The load conductors are too small for a typical house bank and there aren't enough of them on the source/load side! All BM shunts that I have experience with are to be wired into the negative (B-) path with the battery bank being monitored, and ONLY the battery bank being monitored, connected to one side of the shunt ("high"side) and all of the load and source B-'s connected to the other side ("low" side of the shunt). I do not see that configuration in your picture.

[Stu Jackson]

We have a Link 2000 that has been working flawlessly for over 10 years.

That is NOT a Link 2000 shunt. Even if you are only monitoring one bank, the shunt should be a U shaped shunt, as pictured in the wiring diagram at the back of the manual. The shunt MUST have the twisted pairs of wiring from the shunt to the back of the Link. That shunt does NOT have those wires.

Because you have only one bank being monitored, you are correct to use the F11 function.

But low batt should have nothing to do with only one bank, since it should should only show up if you push the Bank 2 button.

Find the negative shunt - first.

Don't mess with the floor, use the defaults and that will deal with the 50% - don't over complicate things.

Since you're also running a Freedom 25, (it's not a Link it's a Freedom) I/C, you may be interested in this:

For everyone installing a battery monitor: The "Gotcha Algorithm" thread, a "MUST READ"

Link-series Charging Algorithms -- The "Gotcha" Factor!

DEFAULTS are factory settings that are made to be modified to suit your setup.

[Savanna]

Originally Posted by LJH

Savanna,

Nice to see uncluttered wiring! I think that the shunt you have pictured is the alternator (positive) shunt that is used by your voltage regulator to sense the charging current.

The monitor uses a battery shunt that is on the negative side of the batteries. Trace the negative cable from you battery bank and you should find it.

Hi LJH,

Thanks for the information - I learn more all the time. Attached is a picture of the shunt which is the first port of call for the negative lead (the red wire at the bottom LHS) after it leaves the battery bank.

In case it is of use, all the wiring in my boat goes to and from a centralised "wiring cupboard", a picture of which is also attached.

[CharlieJ]

First thing to do is take that whole shunt assembly apart and get rid of all of the oxidation. Please ID the other conductors, not including the orange, grey, brown or violet.

[LJH]

Savanna,
As Charlie says clean up the shunt assembly and bus bar. Where does the black lead on the upper side of the shunt go? The current through it is being monitored on the Bat 2 side of the link.

Are the other large cables to the distribution panel and the alternator or engine block?

[Dog and Bone]

I have had this problem for some time on my Link 2000. I have set and reset. reprogramed, rewired etc. I find the low bat comes on when I use my thruster, or the auto pilot is stressed, I have found that if I remove the fuse for 30 seconds, re-install the low bat disapears. I place a meter across the battries and the voltage is fine, until I next use the bow thruster and we start again, I have learned to live with the flashing Low Bat.

[Caribsailors]

Stu Jackson,

Thanks for the link!! Great thread.

I have a SmartGauge Electronics - Products on the way, as I've lost all faith in my Link 2000.

I'm making the parameter change this morning to my Link.

Cheers

[Opie91]

Originally Posted by Savanna

Hi LJH,

Thanks for the information - I learn more all the time. Attached is a picture of the shunt which is the first port of call for the negative lead (the red wire at the bottom LHS) after it leaves the battery bank.

In case it is of use, all the wiring in my boat goes to and from a centralised "wiring cupboard", a picture of which is also attached.

Your wiring shown on the shunt definitely does not represent a 1 battery system. As LHJ said where does that smaller gauge negative wire go to on the upper half of the shunt? It is being monitored by battery 2 side of the shunt, but also battery 1 since that appears to be the only current path to the battery. This would explain why battery 1 appears to monitor correctly, but why you would also show a load on battery 2.

One question, when you put a load on the bank does the Link 2000 indicate a draw on battery 1 & 2 or just 1? If both banks show a load move the smaller gauge wire to opposite side of the shunt where most of the negative wires are connected. (See Picture either spot will do)


Good Luck.

[chris07732]

Originally Posted by Caribsailors

Stu Jackson,

Thanks for the link!! Great thread.

I have a SmartGauge Electronics - Products on the way, as I've lost all faith in my Link 2000.

I'm making the parameter change this morning to my Link.

Cheers

Thanks for mentioning SmartGuage Electronics site. Interesting site. Best explanation of SOC based on voltage measuring vs SOC based on amp counting I've encountered SmartGauge Electronics - SmartGauge compared to Amp Hours Counters. It's a must read for anyone trying to understand why their Link product is giving poor info after several years of usage. Site doesn't bash Link product, only gives a relatively unbiased view of the difference in the two ways to measure SOC. And it's an easy read too.

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by Caribsailors

Stu Jackson,

Thanks for the link!! Great thread.

I have a SmartGauge Electronics - Products on the way, as I've lost all faith in my Link 2000.

I'm making the parameter change this morning to my Link.

Cheers

Glad to help. Why the Smart Gauge? No amp hour counting. Had you considered a Victron? Wiring & Installing A Battery Monitor - SailboatOwners.com

I also have some "issues" with your shunt. What's with the RED wires on negatives?

[LJH]

Originally Posted by Stu Jackson

I also have some "issues" with your shunt. What's with the RED wires on negatives?

Stu,

I must admit I was a bit surprised to after seeing the wiring closet. At least he has black heat shrink over the terminals. It depends where you are when you need work done. I needed a red 2/0 cable from my alternator when I was in Portugal, and they had only black or grey in the equivalent size to choose from. I chose grey and put red heat shrink on it.