Mahe 36: Original FP Mahe 36 Thread

[MKB53]

Jase - Sorry about the delay in responding. I have attached a couple of photos. One shows the gennaker sheeting port at the winch. This has 2 Lewmar 72mm jamming footblocks which are designed to stack and obviously can be set to jam left and right. The foot blocks are in the position the stand up block was and this has been moved a little forward. The stbd sheet is routed from the original stbd stand up block via a Spinlock stanchion block on the pushpit. Interestingly you could probably rig a continuous sheet but I would feel very nervous not being able to let the sheet fly in an emergency.

[MKB53]

Also responding to earlier discussion.

These photos show the twin line reefing setup. I have added 2 x XAS (Clew reefing lines) and 2 x XTS clutches (Tack reefing lines)
The clew lines are not changed from the original set up but merely routed to the clutch. I did swap the position on the mast collar though and used a double block
The Tack lines are tied off on the port mast saddles (that the standard reefing straps are normally looped through). They are then fed through the reefing eye and down through a shackle on the starbord saddle to blocks on the mast collar and then back to the clutches. This was the "minimum impact" option but seems to work well. I will fine tune. eg: determine whether it needs to be more sophisticated than just routing through a shackle.

[jase]

MKB53, Martin?,
thankyou very much for the pictures!
For the Gennaker I use the stand up blocks right now. We mounted an Andersen winch. And , as you I am always a little anxious to keep all lines clear - just in case.
About the reefing: How do you use the winches? Right position for the Main halyard, left for the reefing lines? ( if Genoa is rolled away) I am asking because of the angle from the outer clutches, if used at the inner winch.
I will be at the boat in two weeks and apply the reefing. Though it is deepest winter here it will be spring by then in the Med.

[Scott730]

for those who have asked questions about the watermaker. It is a spectra 200T it makes 9.5 gallons an hour and uses 12 amps to do it. I'm sending this from an anchorage off Manjack Cay and the water maker is running, the water is great, the only place we couldn't make water was in Hope Town where the water is polluted (to many people dumping in the harbor!!) so we made 100 gallons before spending 5 days there on a mooring ball. I'll post pictures when we get back (waiting for a weather window and will probably be back in Florida late next week) the entire unit fits in the hanging locker on the port side, it is a bit noisy but we are getting used to it.
Lonnie, are you still in Florida? let me know if your planning to stop at my marina. I know what your saying about buying water, the good thing about the water maker is I'm not looking for the next place to fill the tanks, and the quality is consistant, a friend filled his tank with "RO" water and it smelled so bad that he dumped it. I tested the water and it had 859 PPM, way bad, he would have gotten sick if he drank it.

Scott

[MKB53]

Hi Jase
My gennaker set up was factory supplied so I have the Harken 36T winch supplied by FP.

There is not much space in the hard point to port of the original clutches so unless you want to reinforce the sandwich area it is only practical to add the clutches on both sides. I don't think this layout is an issue.

The Spinlock clutches claim that the sheet can lead at an angle of up to 30 deg to a winch without rope damage. None of the angles are anywhere near 30 to teh starboard winch but nevertheless I have left the Mainsheet (most used) in it's original clutch which is almost direct. likewise the main halyard is also in the original clutch as 2nd most used and likely to have the most tension applied.

You can reef without using the foresail winch.
1: Ease halyard and cleat - I have read in threads on single line reefing that it is a good idea to mark the halyard so you can let the right amount out.
2: Take up on tack line - either by hand or remove the cleated halyard and use the stbd winch if you need it. If you are heading into the wind it should able to be done by hand. If you think about it the standard straps are fed by hand with the sail loose.
3: tension halyard and cleat
4: Take up on clew line on stbd winch and cleat.. This is a reasonable angle and these lines are not used that frequently and are typically set and not adjusted much.
5: Mainsheet back to stbd winch.

You would be able to use the inner winch for the tack lines (inner clutches) if you wanted to but I think the crossover on the outer (Clew) clutch would be too great.

With the Mainsheet in the middle clutch bank there is a crossover between the mainsheet and the tack lines and a risk of chafing if the tack line is too high when tight. This is OK as set up but there there is some room to play with the position of the blocks on the mast collar to optimise this. Worst case would be a fairlead of some sort to seperate them. I could not get rid of the crossover and maintain a direct line to the winch for the mainsheet without major surgery and I am trying to keep it low impact.

Cheers

[MKB53]

Hi Scott
I am planning to fit a watermaker when I slip in May/June but was planning to mount it in the engine compartment. The noise issue would push me in this direction. Did you consider the engine compartment and if so what made you opt for the port cupboard mounting?

I hate underwater through the hull fittings and was wondering it is was practical to take the feed off the raw water supply to the heat exchanger on the motor. Is this a stupid question? Does the watermaker need more water feed than the engine supply can give? All thoughts appreciated.
Martin

[Scott730]

Martin
I don't see an issue with placing the water maker in the engine hold, it would help with the noise issue. One of the reasons I placed it in the hanging locker was ease of plumbing, I placed a 15 amp breaker in the fuse panel behind the settee and already had a thru hull fitting at the base of the locker, I also used the bilge discharge for the discharge for the water maker and it is right behind the hanging locker, the water tank is also right there, as well as cold water supply lines for backflushing, keeping all the plumbing runs short. Also you have to consider maintanance, having the unit in the engine hold is a little less convenient than the locker. Spectra recommends a dedicated thru hull for the unit, so I would think twice about the engine thru hull.

Scott

[MKB53]

Scott

Many thanks - it all sounds pretty logical - I will have a look at that option.
The engines use an inlet on the leg which is probably less desirable than just T'ing it off a thru hull anyway.

[Jef & Marin, Netherlands]

Hi all,
On this thread it was discussed some time ago that the hot water temperature of he boiler could be too hot, even boiling. On our boat, and others' boat, the red hot water pipe (Brandname "Seatech") even melted with hot steam and water escaping.
Problem is, when you lower the hot water temperature much, you have less shower water. When it's too hot, the hot water pipe melts.
The solution is, I think, to mount a thermostatic mixing valve directly under the hot water boiler. This is available as an accessory.
Last week, I ordered the required thermostatic mixing valve from SVB.de, a big technical watersports shop in Germany. Costs Euro 79.90. It arrived today by mail. Only difference th thermostat knob is white i.s.o. black.
Here is the link:
SVB *-* Boiler Ersatzteile
It's the second item from the bottom of the list.
Probably I'll mount it end of next week. Then I know whether there is enough height under the boiler. It is probably a difficult job to mount it, I might have to remove the boiler to attach the cold water pipe which is at the rear.
Good sailing,
Jef

[Cotemar]

Seadog3315,

Looking at your post #542 of your solar panel mounted on your davits and stern rail.
Can you take a picture of the connection to your davits for me. I would like to use that same connection method.

Cotemar

[IrieCat]

Hi Scott, I hope you had a GREAT time in the Bahamas. I'm sure you did. Teri and I are in NC already so we will miss you until the fall. We had to get some work done on the boat in Fort Lauderdale so that put us behind a little on time. We had the work done by Thierry @ Nautic & Co who is awsome. He is the first person who I have found who really knows the Mahe. We were lucky that Philippe hucked us up with him. Anyway, we sailed from Ft Lauderdale to Ponce, then to Charleston trying to get back on schedule. We will leave here as soon as this storm passes (Tuesday). I have to be at work March 15 in NY. Post or drop us an email, we would love to hear about your trip.
the irie crew

[Wayward Wind]

Originally Posted by Cotemar

Seadog3315,

Looking at your post #542 of your solar panel mounted on your davits and stern rail.
Can you take a picture of the connection to your davits for me. I would like to use that same connection method.

Cotemar

Cotemar, hope this is what you are looking for.

JohnC

[Jef & Marin, Netherlands]

Seadog, saw your solar panels, looks very nice. Are you happy about the percentag of the day you get sunlight? Or would you advice another location after having your experience, e.g. port side of the bimini?

I am planning to mount solar panels, but do not have your stern rail.
I'll try to feed the power line through the davits, this brings them very nicely inside I think.

[lstyles]

I would also like to know how your solar panels are working out. How many watt hours do you have up there on the davit and what kind of output do you get? Have you had any troubles with this configuration in rough weather or seas? Not too get too personal but can you tell us how much you paid for the stern rail that you have...its quite nice and I am considering something like that.
thanks,
Lori

[MKB53]

I am chipping in on this as I have pretty much the same configuration as Seadog from the same agent (EC Marine in Aus).

The stern rail/pushpit is really good and I would recommend a "hard" one like these.

I was charged A$2550 including the mounting for the solar panel. The additional barbecue mounting on the corner was an extra I added later.

The photo shows the solar panel mounting reasonably well. The outboard bar is closed on each end and is threaded to take a bolt. The bolt then is inserted through the top (unused) holes in the davit fitting. Very neat and simple. SeaDogs looks slightly different in this detail but either would work well.

I don't have any detail on the panel output but it gets quite a bit of sun. I suspect the cabin/bimini top position would be more prone to shade from the main when on the wrong tack. obviously when you are head to the sun you will have a problem.