TEAK Love/hate relationship

[GRNordstrom]

Like most boaters, I love the look of varnished teak....and hate the maintenance. The last time I varnished I suppose all the layers were too thick and it cracked letting water under it. So I stripped the whole mess off. Now it's gray, which I don't mind, but I want to teak oil it a few times to see if I like that and if I don't I'll awl grip the stuff.
Does anyone have a favorite oil or oiling method I could try? Also, is there an oil with an anti mildew component in it to prevent or at least slow down the black stuff.
Yea, I know, all this has been hashed out so many times but I'm sure some enterprising, intelligent cruiser out there has figured out a satisfactory solution.Or that maybe some new viable product has been introduced that will overcome the trials of teak maintenance.Wishful thinking, I know. Probably easier to find a cure for.... whatever. Just trying to get the latest advice and councel.
Thank you in advance for your tolerance.
Ray

[zboss]

On our cockpit teak we have been using Semco teak sealer. We used that on the rest of the boat as well.

We got lots and lots of comments on it and it does look good and is super easy to apply. Our whole boat maybe takes me two hours since there is no sanding involved... you just apply with a rag.

With that said - the semco doesn't last very long at all. Maybe three months. I experimented with applying wax on top of some of the teak and that seemed to help it last a lot longer. I think the semco sits mostly on the top of the teak and doesn't get absorbed deep.

For my next experiment I am going to try a epifanes varnish followed by a clear coat of Cetol. Apparently, you get the nice looking aspects of the varnish and the long lasting finish of the cetol. About every 6 months you sand the cetol and apply another coat. I keep the cockpit semco with a layer of non-slip wax.

[Muckle Flugga]

Originally Posted by GRNordstrom

Like most boaters, I love the look of varnished teak....and hate the maintenance. The last time I varnished I suppose all the layers were too thick and it cracked letting water under it. So I stripped the whole mess off. Now it's gray, which I don't mind, but I want to teak oil it a few times to see if I like that and if I don't I'll awl grip the stuff.
Does anyone have a favorite oil or oiling method I could try? Also, is there an oil with an anti mildew component in it to prevent or at least slow down the black stuff.
Yea, I know, all this has been hashed out so many times but I'm sure some enterprising, intelligent cruiser out there has figured out a satisfactory solution.Or that maybe some new viable product has been introduced that will overcome the trials of teak maintenance.Wishful thinking, I know. Probably easier to find a cure for.... whatever. Just trying to get the latest advice and councel.
Thank you in advance for your tolerance.
Ray

I know it is not really what you want to hear, but teak abovedecks is by far best left entirely untreated with anything. The silver grey is its natural look when oxidised and exposed to sunlight. It hardens in such exposure and will wear very slowly indeed. Happily it also means absolutely NO maintenance. Too many people sand, use teak "restorers", oils and/or potions of various kinds. They are entirely unnecessary. Of course clear varnish looks wonderful, but as you note degenerates in sunlight and needs to be stripped, sanded, and redone fairly frequently. Crazed and peeling varnish looks much worse than none at all! If you want some highlights, pick a bit of trim and clear varnish that, but leave the majority alone. The only bits of clear varnish on my abovedecks are the trim round the companionway, the cockpit table and cup holder. Nothing else has ever been or will ever be. It is and should be very low maintenance.

As for awlgripping teak… doesn't strike me as a good idea at all, and unlikely to alleviate headaches, at least in the long term. More likely to create new ones.

[Doug Brown]

Hammer and a 3' wood chisel.

First thing I did when we bought AE years ago was remove all the cockpit and bridge deck teak.

The cabin top teak handrails managed to last another 20 years before getting removed.

Should have done it at the same time as the cockpit....

[brianlara 3]

In Australia we have a product named, DEKS OLJE. Comes in matt and semi gloss, an oil.
Another option is as you've just read, hammer and chisel but chainsaw is quicker.
Me? like you, I think silver is the best treatment of all. jm2cw.
Have fun deciding.
P.S. Stihl make the best chainsaws IMHO.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Muckle Flugga

I know it is not really what you want to hear, but teak abovedecks is by far best left entirely untreated with anything. The silver grey is its natural look when oxidised and exposed to sunlight. It hardens in such exposure and will wear very slowly indeed. Happily it also means absolutely NO maintenance. Too many people sand, use teak "restorers", oils and/or potions of various kinds. They are entirely unnecessary. Of course clear varnish looks wonderful, but as you note degenerates in sunlight and needs to be stripped, sanded, and redone fairly frequently. Crazed and peeling varnish looks much worse than none at all! If you want some highlights, pick a bit of trim and clear varnish that, but leave the majority alone. The only bits of clear varnish on my abovedecks are the trim round the companionway, the cockpit table and cup holder. Nothing else has ever been or will ever be. It is and should be very low maintenance.

As for awlgripping teak… doesn't strike me as a good idea at all, and unlikely to alleviate headaches, at least in the long term. More likely to create new ones.

Brother, I have Awlgripped all my teak. It looks fabulous. Only have the hand rail all the way around left bright. Now it's scratch it and slap on a fresh topcoat once every 5-10 years. There is a method.

Of course, what I have left bright is Awlgrip's Ultimate Brightwork System, ie Awlbrite over Awlspar. Lets you do things like wet sand and buff your bright work. I know, cheating!

[zeehag]

i still wash mine with sea water then oil it... i have an oil finish that works nicely and adds no color. it will even do nicely when i change out much of my old destroyed teakwood to parota, aka ipe....
my mizzen boom will be ipe --- the original prolly thai cedar which the carpenter thought was teak, as it has similar characteristics, rotted in middle, at bale-- when i get my new boom, it is gonna be epoxied inside and out, and pending a clear coating. not certain what i will use.... will let you know.
teak is an easy care wood, unlike many other woods which demand a protective coating. the unfortunate thing with teak, it hates fresh water.
my caprail leaked when not sealed with an oil finish. kinda found out during patricia, when my entire interior became wet thoroughly from this issue.
yes it is now sealed well...just in time for dry season.
teak requires salt water to be properly maintained.

[Muckle Flugga]

Originally Posted by minaret

Brother, I have Awlgripped all my teak. It looks fabulous. Only have the hand rail all the way around left bright. Now it's scratch it and slap on a fresh topcoat once every 5-10 years. There is a method.

Of course, what I have left bright is Awlgrip's Ultimate Brightwork System, ie Awlbrite over Awlspar. Lets you do things like wet sand and buff your bright work. I know, cheating!

Many thanks! I wasn't aware of its effective use on Teak. Always good to read your posts!

[chris95040]

Originally Posted by Muckle Flugga

I know it is not really what you want to hear, but teak abovedecks is by far best left entirely untreated with anything. The silver grey is its natural look when oxidised and exposed to sunlight. It hardens in such exposure and will wear very slowly indeed. Happily it also means absolutely NO maintenance.

Maybe if your boats made of one single piece of teak.

Joints will certainly work a lot more if the wood is untreated. For a little teak handrail here and there, or a deck thats been designed around this motion, sure, natural is probably the best option.

For stuff full of glued joints (hatch frames, dorade boxes, window frames, in my case, hell, the whole cabin trunk) you absolutely cannot leave it grey, unless you want serious work down the road.

Maybe if you re-engineer any glued seams...

In New England (with the boat under a tent half the year) an epoxy made for teak, plus 6 coats of 2 part poly (clear), can buy you 4-5 years of zero maintenance. And it looks ridiculously pretty.

Another thing that pops mind, particularly when dripping blood and sweat lying ontop of the diesel, or fiberglassing a bulkhead, or lying under the cockpit fighting greasy cables and frozen bolts, is that workwork is hands down the most pleasant work to do on the boat. Scuff, scuff, play with a paintbrush, its like how I used to daydream boatwork would be.

[Muckle Flugga]

Originally Posted by chris95040

Maybe if your boats made of one single piece of teak.

Joints will certainly work a lot more if the wood is untreated. For a little teak handrail here and there, or a deck thats been designed around this motion, sure, natural is probably the best option.

For stuff full of glued joints (hatch frames, dorade boxes, window frames, in my case, hell, the whole cabin trunk) you absolutely cannot leave it grey, unless you want serious work down the road.

Maybe if you re-engineer any glued seams...

In New England (with the boat under a tent half the year) an epoxy made for teak, plus 6 coats of 2 part poly (clear), can buy you 4-5 years of zero maintenance. And it looks ridiculously pretty.

Another thing that pops mind, particularly when dripping blood and sweat lying ontop of the diesel, or fiberglassing a bulkhead, or lying under the cockpit fighting greasy cables and frozen bolts, is that workwork is hands down the most pleasant work to do on the boat. Scuff, scuff, play with a paintbrush, its like how I used to daydream boatwork would be.

Oh yeah. Now that strikes a chord. I think I've lost more pints of blood than I originally had through my fingers and forearms on various boats… though it did lead me to come up with a little saying, which I believe true: the most important additive to grease, is a few drops of your own blood!

[HappyMdRSailor]

Hiya Ray!

I really like minaret's cheater advice.... And I pretty much guarantee you will never find a more "bristol showroom" looking boat than anything he owns or works on... (which is more boats that the combined CF membership probably)...

That being said, I cheat too with one of my boats... The Morgan in CA 2k NM away from me has a teak toe rail that gave me fits...

One hot tip from CF, and my life changed with that chore...
http://www.amazon.com/Starbrite-Trop.../dp/B00DNBGHDW

Super easy application, prep good once... just refresh one thin coat every 6 mo to a year... Takes me 30 min for 60 linear feet... Looks great fresh, and only gets better looking until you think it's time for a refreshing...

Natural light is a honey-oak tint that "teaks out well". It's my preference, but the darker "classic teak" color gives you the reds out of the teak... This color will look a little orange outta the can and for the first few months...

It's the color you see here on the toe rail... Best of luck bud!

[HappyMdRSailor]

PS- Do a search on CF, and you'll find more info on the Starbrite aficionados and their results...

[GRNordstrom]

RE: teak-Love/Hate:
Dear fellow boat owners and boat lovers,
It is puzzling to me that I am infected with this disease which causes me to love any vessel type thing that floats on water. It's nice to know that I am not alone in my affliction and in fact I have come to really enjoy the advice and especially the company of my fellow "sufferers". What a great group of people!!
Thank you for all your comments!!
Ray

[chris95040]

Originally Posted by Muckle Flugga

, which I believe true: the most important additive to grease, is a few drops of your own blood!

Well then my steering hardware should stay functional for years to come!!

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by GRNordstrom

Yea, I know, all this has been hashed out so many times but I'm sure some enterprising, intelligent cruiser out there has figured out a satisfactory solution.Or that maybe some new viable product has been introduced that will overcome the trials of teak maintenance.

Ray, really nothing new.

Ladies & Gentlemen,

The "natural" progression of "dealing with exterior teak" usually runs like this:

--- teak oil

or

--- Nothing

--- varnish

--- cetol

--- nothing

---teak oil or Semco

--- nothing

--- varnish

--- cetol

Repeat as necessary...

Nothing much has changed in the last 25 years about this subject...