Trip lines and marker buoys, sorry another anchoring thread.

[Dennis.G]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

That helps, but it does not solve the problem if the boat (or another anchored boat) drifts directly over the anchor.

I use a trip line/buoy on occasion only. The last time I did so was in February at Isla Isabella off of San Blas on Pacific coast of Mexico. Bottom is all boulders and rock. Was in 15' of water, put out 75' of chain and had about 20' of 1/4" line with a milk jug buoy on the end as a trip line. The wind died at night. Woke up in the morning to find the boat hanging off of the trip line which was caught on the propeller. Was about to dive under to untangle, but was able to get it off using just the boat hook. Do not assume that your boat is just going to swing on an arc from your anchor - drifting over a marker buoy or trip line is easy to do.

In an anchorage with anyone else close by, having another boat snag the trip line is maybe even more likely.

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by MarkJ

I dislike anchor bouys. It restricts the space where others can anchor. There is no reason why people can not swing over you pick, or very close to it. You dont own the whole anchorage, just the smallest sliver of the very crowded anchorages.

I think this is an important point.

Trip buoys do restrict the anchoring room. So only use them when they are required, or there is little chance of inconvenience to others.

[Cheechako]

No bouy, no trip line. Th Bahamas are about the easiest places I've ever anchored.

[Dennis.G]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

I think this is an important point.

Trip buoys do restrict the anchoring room. So only use them when they are required, or there is little chance of inconvenience to others.

Often used by the same guys that post "I always use at least 7:1 scope when anchoring, no matter what".

[Hud3]

I agree that anchor buoys can be a PITA for others in the anchorage, so I've never used one. Here's an alternate approach.

If you find yourself in an anchorage that has a reputation for a foul bottom, just attach a length of 3/8" (9-10 mm) line to the trip position on your anchor. The length of the line needs to equal the high-tide water depth, plus the distance to bow roller, plus about 10 feet. Tie the other end of the line off to the chain once you've let the chain out an appropriate amount, then finish anchoring.

When bringing the chain back in, untie the line after it comes back over the bow roller and bring it in with the chain. If you turn out to be snagged, give the line a hearty tug, and, voila, you're free.

[CLady]

Or, a Mantus anchor.

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by Hud3

If you find yourself in an anchorage that has a reputation for a foul bottom, just attach a length of 3/8" (9-10 mm) line to the trip position on your anchor. The length of the line needs to equal the high-tide water depth, plus the distance to bow roller, plus about 10 feet. Tie the other end of the line off to the chain once you've let the chain out an appropriate amount, then finish anchoring.

This is a good and easy option that is worth considering. However, it worth noting that if the chain gets caught this technique does not work. A trip float does not always work either, but the ability to pull the anchor from both directions solves most problems.

If you picture this sort of terrain it is easy to see how the chain can get wrapped around an obstruction, just as easily as the anchor getting snagged. The chain often works its way down and jams around the narrow base of boulders like this.

Of course you could always anchor somewhere else

[wrwakefield]

I lost [abandoned] 1 anchor (45# CQR) over 30 years and it could have likely been salvaged with a trip line.

I have also fouled floating trip lines with my high-speed underwater winch... more than once... [If you do use a float, use a soft one in case it is wound-up in someone's prop. A hard float can wedge between the prop and hull and bend the prop... from personal experience...]

So what I went to was a trip line without the float.

The modified approach I adopted when in waters where I'm worried about fouling is to attach a trip line to the anchor long enough to exceed max water depth when I'm on top of the anchor + ~20% and belay the bitter-end to the anchor chain, keeping the trip-line completely underwater.

I also add a couple of the small fishing net floats to the trip line to keep it off the bottom.

The entire trip-line remains under water, but when retrieving the anchor chain the bitter-end of the trip-line reaches the deck before the bow is directly above the anchor. So if I need to use the trip-line, I can untie it from the chain rode and do what is necessary, or just flake it for next time...

This is especially handy in Alaska and BC, Canada waters because of the many former log storage areas and their abandoned underwater cables that were used to moor the log booms...

What this approach doesn't help with is when the chain wraps around a coral head or other submerged obstacle... but I don't mind diving in waters where coral heads are prevalent so I don't need a trip line there...

I have attached an photo a cruising buddy sent me last summer while cruising in BC...

[jongleur]

Hud3 and wrwakefield:

That's a great idea. Thanks.

[zeehag]

i am still trying to find a good trick that does NOT unset anchor and will show the noob folks who INSIST on dragging their rocnas over my bludi chain in anchorages exactly where my anchor is.
seems many folks do not know what 4 boat lengths is, and only give me one boat length.

[Mark Zarley]

Hud 3 has the answer, read it, comprehend it, then do it. It's what we do to, KISS.