Quick windlass problem

[Lionelsole]

Hi,

just run into a problem today:

Heaving up anchor, paused as weight came on. Could not heave up more,but it would pay out. We had a similar problem when we first bought the boat, solved by cleaning contacts on the relay, so tried that and it worked. Once.

Currently, we can heave up just chain, starting and stopping no problem. When there is weight on, we can heave but if we pause, we cannot re-start. The relay does not click when the up button is pressed.

We have checked continuity in the buttons and cleaned every contact we can find.

Does anyone have a clue where we go from here?

Lionel

[tkeithlu]

A larger, continuous duty relay. If you can clean the contacts, it doesn't sound like much of a relay. The 300 amp 12v ones made for golf carts cost $37.95 on Amazon.

[tkeithlu]

A second thought. Have you cleaned the connections on the primary circuit, the thick cables that carry the heavy amps from your battery through the relay and on to the windlass? They may be exposed to weather, and if they've gottened tarnished may not be able to carry the amps you need for the windlass motor. I find copper connections eventually tarnish even in my engine room, given that copper and salt air don't get along too well together.

[wayne.b]

Originally Posted by tkeithlu

A second thought. Have you cleaned the connections on the primary circuit, the thick cables that carry the heavy amps from your battery through the relay and on to the windlass? They may be exposed to weather, and if they've gottened tarnished may not be able to carry the amps you need for the windlass motor. I find copper connections eventually tarnish even in my engine room, given that copper and salt air don't get along too well together.

===

A good way to minimize corrosion is use a product like Kopr-Shield made by Thomas and Betts.

https://www.tessco.com/products/disp....do?sku=437469

[jackdale]

Are you running your engine at a minimum of 1200 rpm? That seems to be when some alternators kick in and provide enough power to the windlass

[Lionelsole]

Thanks for replies.
Like I said, we have cleaned all accessible contacts. (Relay is a sealed unit). Power comes from service bank (320Ah, fully charged) and engine is running at 1500 revs.
Any other thoughts?
Lionel

[Jim Cate]

So, it sounds like time to get out the DVM and measure some voltages. I'd start at the windlass motor, measuring the terminal voltage as you attempt to raise a load, before and after a pause. If it is not close to battery voltage, start moving back towards the source, checking under load each time. Eventually you will find where the drop occurs/ If the voltage at the motor terminal is good, then I'd suspect a worn or sticking brush in the motor... not uncommon at all, and an easy fix. Or, it could be a worn or corroded commutator, or a bad winding. Those are less likely, and unfortunately will be mere expensive to fix.

These are pretty simple systems, and simple troubleshooting should suffice to find the culprit. good hunting!

Jim

[groundtackle]

Sorry guys but you'll have to use a multimeter, I'm not available just now.
Nick Shaw (DVM)



Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by nshawdvm

Sorry guys but you'll have to use a multimeter, I'm not available just now.
Nick Shaw (DVM)



Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

Oh, come now, Sir! Surely if we up the ante enough you would make yourself available. Being that I'm spending the OP's money, how does five million USD as a retainer sound? Travel expenses, of course, and perhaps comely companions to help you while away your off hours (if that's your style!)?

And really, it needs not be a multi-meter. A simple voltmeter is all that is needed, although one of decent accuracy would be nice.

As an aside: we once met a cruising DVM. A fairly young woman, she made friends in French Polynesia by doing a couple of pet spayings on her galley table... a nice gesture and much appreciated at the time!

Jim

[Lionelsole]

Jim,
If the relay (solonoid) is not activating, does it not mean that the problem is in the (low current) control circuit rather than in the motor or it's high current supply?
Lionel

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by Lionelsole

Jim,
If the relay (solonoid) is not activating, does it not mean that the problem is in the (low current) control circuit rather than in the motor or it's high current supply?
Lionel

Yes, if you are sure that it is not functioning, then start the measurements at the input side of the relay. If you get normal voltage there, then the relay is dead. This could be either in the high current contacts or the solenoid coil... either way, it means a new relay in all practical terms.

The intermittent nature of the failure leads me to think if it is the relay, it is in the high current contacts. The coil windings would be likely to fail totally (open circuit), not intermittently (IMO).

Thinking about it some more, when you describe it as failing under load after pausing with light load, well, that sorta sounds like the contacts are a bit pitted or corroded, presenting a higher resistance than normal. When first started they are cold, but after running under light load for a while they heat up and then will not carry enough current to run the motor. That's a bit off the wall, but may be a plausible explanation!

I hope you find the fault and tell us all what it was!

Jim

[Lionelsole]

Jim,
That sounds possible. Not sure if I can get into the unit to see the contacts but that will be my next move. I'll let you know...
Lionel

[double u]

in an emergency bridge the relaycontacts with a big screwdriver
get a new relay (retailing for abt. €100.-) (& maybe carry a spare)

[Lionelsole]

Contacts at business end of relay badly pitted. New relay fitted and it seems to work.
Fingers crossed
Lionel

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by Lionelsole

Contacts at business end of relay badly pitted. New relay fitted and it seems to work.
Fingers crossed
Lionel

Well done, Lionel. Glad that the issue is cleared up.

Jim