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Old 17-03-2017, 14:48   #1
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Gluing Hypalon (again)

Does anyone have the latest magical concoction for gluing hypalon? My leaks are small but persistent.

The glue they supply with the inflatable dries up in the tube. I have tried that automotive weather-stripping glue from 3M recommended elsewhere on the forum. It lasted about three weeks. 5200 seemed a good bet but the patch rubs right off if you catch it on a piling or under a painter, yours or someone else's at the dingy dock. Crazy glue lasted about an hour. Someone recommended contact cement but her dingy is as soft as a wet noodle. That two-part stuff isn't available in the islands and has a zero shelf life anyway... not much good for the cruiser. And as I write this, the word is still out on polysulfide but I expect the results to be similar to those of 5200.

And before someone goes off on the “surface preparation” tangent, I have spent many years in the marine industry using epoxies, paints, caulking, and sealants, so I am very familiar with surface prep.

If I ever get back to the States, I'll be looking for a good quality inflatable made from PVC. At least good old tire cement sticks to it.

If anyone has the secret to gluing hypalon I hope they will share with the rest of us.

Old marine dog, willing to learn...
Bry
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Old 17-03-2017, 14:58   #2
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Re: Gluing Hypalon (again)

Contact Cement
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Old 18-03-2017, 04:16   #3
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Re: Gluing Hypalon (again)

the yottie glue of choice for Hypalon is Rema Tip-Top SC-2000 or SC-4000. These are industrial two partcontact cements, used for things like conveyor belt repair and gluing the rubber parts of motor mounts to the metal parts. It has shelf life of multiple years and is reasonably tolerant of high humidity during use. The difference between the two grades is in the solvents used. The one in SC-2000 has been judged carcinogenic in some countries, not in others. They perform much the same.

I don't know if they are available where you are,but most industrial supply houses can get it for you if they don't have it in stock.

Jim (who has used it for over two decades)
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Old 18-03-2017, 07:02   #4
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Re: Gluing Hypalon (again)

Flexset

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Old 18-03-2017, 09:38   #5
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Re: Gluing Hypalon (again)

2 part glue for hypalon. follow instructions. it will outlast the dinghy.
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Old 19-03-2017, 11:34   #6
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Re: Gluing Hypalon (again)

Thanks guys. Truly appreciated the information.
...MIGHT be able to locate Cemento de Contacto here in “Niki” but, of coarse, none of the other suggestions will be available... even if I could convey my requirements into Spanish. (smile)

Anyway, that aside, I do appreciate the time you took to consider my problem. I'll just struggle along with what I got! As usual...

Bry
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Old 19-03-2017, 16:06   #7
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Re: Gluing Hypalon (again)

bcripps, I don't know where "Niki" is, but if 3M 5200 is available there, it is an option. It will be poorer, because the drying time is long so that you'd have to face up to swimming ashore for 5 or 7 days, but it will bond okay to hypalon. The SC products, have to set up a bit before full inflation, but adequate inflation to use the dinghy happens within an hour or so. Even SC 2000 has to build bond strength. Once you have stuck it down, it will not move again. We use the waxed paper method of separating the two pieces till you have it lined up, and then smooth the patch down. As you undoubtedly know, masking helps, and we also use "strike up" marks.
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Old 19-03-2017, 17:16   #8
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Re: Gluing Hypalon (again)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bcripps View Post
Thanks guys. Truly appreciated the information.
...MIGHT be able to locate Cemento de Contacto here in “Niki” but, of coarse, none of the other suggestions will be available... even if I could convey my requirements into Spanish. (smile)

Anyway, that aside, I do appreciate the time you took to consider my problem. I'll just struggle along with what I got! As usual...

Bry
Regular one-pot contact cement, the kind that cures by evaporation, will not stand up very long at all. The bond strength is simply not good enough. If you are prepared to re-do the patch frequently, you might get along ok.

Good luck... from someone who has nursed very tired Hypalon dinks along far past their use-by dates.

Jim
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Old 24-03-2017, 10:55   #9
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Re: Gluing Hypalon (again)

I can offer a different perspective for you on hypalon patch work. I worked as a whitewater boatman on the Colorado river for some years, and maintaining hypalon rafts is all part of the job. Hypalon uses a mechanical bond. PVC material uses a chemical bond. Two completely different techniques. For hypalon we used the stabond brand which comes with a dark brown liquid accelerator. The so called accelerator is an additive which accelerates nothing. It does however increase the temperature at which the glue will become soft and fail. Use the accelerator in tropical environments. There is no downside. Best case is for materials to be in the shade while patching and remain there for at least a day in order for solvents to release properly. Too hot and glue will boil and bubble underneath the patch, rendering weaknesses. First a light coat on both surfaces. Wait an hour then put second light coat. Wait an hour and lay down third light coat. Wait 15 minutes and stick them together. After an hour, knead the patch down hard again. Do that again the next day. Wait as long as you can, a day or two will do in the shade, then bring to low pressure and dinghy about. Try to avoid full pressure for a week as this is how long it takes the glue to fully cure. I know all this time isn't what any of us wants to hear, but this is best case for a bomb proof hypalon bond. Make sure no threads are showing on either glued surface. Threads weaken the bond but often it still works.
Note: accelerator is methylated isocyanate, the chemical which killed 4,000 in Bhopal. Please be mindful of the little brown bottle.
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Old 24-03-2017, 10:59   #10
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Re: Gluing Hypalon (again)

Addendum: I mean to suggest three light coats of glue on both surfaces. Also, Dust is the enemy of all raft repair.
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