What is this block at the top of my mast? And topping lift question.

[ThePanye]

Hello,
I have seen a few of these add-on blocks at the front of masts, what do people use them for? My boat has never been equipped with any light wind sails that I know of.

Also I currently have a fixed topping lift, (blue line on the left that simply makes a loop around the block). It goes to a simple shackle at the base aft end of the boom, so not adjustable at all. I’d like to make it adjustable, can I replace with a longer line and run it down the mast to an existing cleat? Or is there a better setup?
Thanks
Eric

[stevead]

Block at the top front of the mast crane looks like the boat was rigged for a spinnaker as it would fly outside of the forestay.

Re, boom topping lift, looks like there is no sheave on the mast crane and the topping lift is just secured to the clevis pin. If there is enough room to fit a sheave then you could just run a longer boom topping lift which you will tie off to your existing cleat at the mast.

[marcjsmith]

Spinnaker block on the front

For the topping lift to make it super simple,. Add a 2:1 block with a cam cleat at the aft end of the boom. Would be easy enough to add....

[LoudMusic]

I wouldn't trust that forward block for anything more than raising a flag. If it failed and your spinnaker dumped in the water in front of you, you might run over it and foul your keel, rudder, and propeller.

[thinwater]

Looks like a Schaefer single with a SWL of 1000 pounds. What is the size of the boat? The other boats in the area look modest.



I can't judge the condition, but if this is a smaller boat (<28') that should be enough, particularly if you avoid strong winds, which you probably will. The halyard is probably only 5/16", which also has a SWL~ 800 pounds.

[stormalong]

Also your VHF coax cable connection looks dodgy. Is it at right angle to the connector?

[ThePanye]

For context this is a Challenger 32, halyard is 3/8 and brand new.
For topping lift I think I will look for a sheave and run a new line down the mast, as the line needs to be replaced anyway.
I’d love to be able to fly a spinnaker, would a through-bolt and upgraded block make it trust worthy? Or is there something different to try?
Appreciate the input!

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by stevead

Re, boom topping lift, looks like there is no sheave on the mast crane and the topping lift is just secured to the clevis pin. If there is enough room to fit a sheave then you could just run a longer boom topping lift which you will tie off to your existing cleat at the mast.

Originally Posted by marcjsmith

For the topping lift to make it super simple,. Add a 2:1 block with a cam cleat at the aft end of the boom. Would be easy enough to add....

Both of these methods have merits, and each have pros/cons.
In either method you want to have the topping lift close at hand to be able to operate it while you're reefing/shaking out the reef.
Be careful if using any kind of cam/clam cleat.
With reefing lines/sail ties/sail covers, and clew outhaul lines all over the boom an accidental release on a cam/clam cleat might drop the boom on someone/something if the sail/halyard is slack.
Whatever you come-up with have an "eye" mounted such that a figure-8/stopper knot will fetch up against it and stop the boom from falling down far enough to hit someone in the cockpit.
There are several ways to accomplish that, (some not needing an eye,) but you get the picture, no falling booms.

[wholybee]

RE: the topping lift. The way a lot of boats were rigged is with a line from the mast head to a few feet about the aft end of the boom. Then, another line runs the length of the boom, and through a block and tackle to the topping lift line to the masthead. You would adjust it from the mast, or that line could be run to the cockpit. The advantage is that you have a 2:1 tackle, so it's much easier to lift the boom with the stowed sail on top of it. If you just run the topping lift through a sheeve at the masthead, you loose that advantage.

[wholybee]

Originally Posted by stormalong

Also your VHF coax cable connection looks dodgy. Is it at right angle to the connector?

Yeah, the VHF connection is toast. It's probably time to replace the entire coax run, and the VHF antenna.

[Don C L]

Chances are the previous owner didn't raise the boom; they just used the line to hold it when the main dropped. As for the block I'll echo everyone else, spinnaker halyard block.

[DEAN2140]

"In either method you want to have the topping lift close at hand to be able to operate it while you're reefing/shaking out the reef."

You don't say whether you have a solid boom vang. If so, a topping lift is not necessary to reef (or for anything else) as the vang will hold the boom up.

[Bowdrie]

ThePanye, you might be interested in this old thread that started ~16 years ago on the Challengers.

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...2-a-10294.html

[ThePanye]

No boom vang.
There’s lots to do on this boat (need to set up a reefing system next), the vhf was dangling around so mashed it back up there when replaced the halyards…figured I could just redo the connector with the non solder version but is it best to just replace entire cable and antenna?
I’ve read a few challenger thread on here, posted on one, even tried to contact a couple members last year but no response. Wonder if there are any left in Dana point? I saw one in rainbow marina that was for sale but it was either sold or taken off the market.

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by ThePanye

No boom vang.
There’s lots to do on this boat (need to set up a reefing system next), the vhf was dangling around so mashed it back up there when replaced the halyards…figured I could just redo the connector with the non solder version but is it best to just replace entire cable and antenna?
I’ve read a few challenger thread on here, posted on one, even tried to contact a couple members last year but no response. Wonder if there are any left in Dana point? I saw one in rainbow marina that was for sale but it was either sold or taken off the market.

If you plan to use a no solder PL-259 use one that is crimped with a proper crimping tool. The gold colored no crimp no solder PL-259 connectors are crap.