STA-LOK Swageless Terminals (Wire Rope Terminals)

[IanTrail]

I have re-rigged my Nicholson 45 twice with Norseman terminals while ashore with the mast down. I have Sta-Locs on the forestay roller - pretty much the same. The terminals can certainly be re-used with new cones.

One tip for removing the terminals:
After unscrewing the eye, the body can be quite reluctant to free from the wire. DO NOT (as I did) belt it with a hammer to drive the body off the cone and up the wire. It damages the entry to the thread and the terminal is a write-off. Screw the eye back in with a few turns of thread engaged but enough movement to allow the cone to release from the body when you apply the hammer to the eye. Other than that, no problems.

[Happ]

Originally Posted by thomm225

Has anyone used / installed these with new rigging on their boat?

If so how did it go with the assembly.

I figure I'll have to go home to my shed etc where my vise is to do the job properly.

I'm thinking forestay and backstay first then go from there as I have two lowers and one upper for shrouds which would probably last many more years.

This to be done with rig on the boat and I'll secure the mast with halyard and an extra old halyard that I'll tie to the top when up there

I know professional riggers that use Sta-Lok all the time. One rigger put them on a boat a few years ago and they already half way around the world. What’s not to like.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Bill O

Specifically on the Hi-MODS, they tell you not to use any adhesive/sealant with their fittings.

I decided to search more and found this in their catalog:

“We do not require the use of sealant in our fittings. You can, however, fill them with a non-acidic polysulfide or better marine-grade sealant.”

Interesting, I don’t think their fittings have a drain, right?

[twofingerpoi]

Practical-Sailor article...

https://www.practical-sailor.com/sai...inal-pull-test

TLDR; Hi-Mod by Hayn

[IanTrail]

None of the ones I've used (Norseman and Sta-Loc) have a drain per se.
Upper terminals shouldn't fill with rain/sea anyway and any should drain out of the wire entry.
Lower terminals are the potential problem: they get seawater and rain entering from the wire and the only way out is through the thread, which aint going to happen, especially when the thread is sealed with Loctite, which it needs to be.
Leaving stainless steel in stagnant seawater is really not a good idea.
So I always fill the terminals with sealant to stop water getting in. I've taken them apart after 10 years and they look spotless - no qualms at all at re-using them (except the cones of course).

[col50]

Originally Posted by Brioche

Did some fittings a few years back. Easiest way to hacksaw the cables was to drill hole in piece of hard wood, insert cable, and cut through slot in wood, so as to keep cable end neat.

Thanks, great idea.

[s/v Jedi]

I can’t see any problem with using an angle grinder with cut-off blade. Reports about overheating must be caused by using the wrong blade.

[Emmalina]

Re rigged 2 boats on moorings using Hi-Mod (Peterson stainless in the UK Hayn is the US importer) easy to do just put tape round the wire and cut with a small angle grinder one at a time.

[Emmalina]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

I can’t see any problem with using an angle grinder with cut-off blade. Reports about overheating must be caused by using the wrong blade.

Three main reasons why we recommend that you do
not use sealant.
1) Regardless of how much sealant and pressure you apply to the terminal, we do not
believe that you will completely fill the cavity, thus leaving a small air pocket which will
get water in it (usually somewhere near the centre of the cable where it is difficult to get
at).
2) Stainless steel is protected by a very thin chrome-oxide layer. If the oxide layer
becomes damaged, it needs more oxygen to replenish that layer. Any water that makes
its way in past the sealant will become stale (oxygen depleted) over time. It is safer to
allow fresh water into the terminal on a regular basis which will not only clean and wash
away any built up salt residues but will also maintain the oxide layer of the stainless
steel.
3) The main mechanical components of the compression fittings are manufactured from
stainless steel grade 316L. This material has high anti-corrosive properties and is ideal
for use in a constant sea water environment. The design of the terminal and its
components has been developed in such a way that it is acceptable to use this material.
Other designs of this type of terminal may not benefit from these design features.
The design of the Hi-MOD swageless compression terminal is such that you can
dismantle the terminal at any time, allowing you to inspect and clean the internal
components. If you use a sealant, it would make this operation very difficult and you
may not be able to see all of the inner components properly.

[jomoman]

i re-fitted a 1978 Formosa 46 using Hi-Mod fittings. they're better that the sta-loks, re-usable and stronger. DON'T use a vise to cut the wire, spend the bucks and get a GOOD cable cutter. i did mine with the mast in place, one wire at a time, easy after the first 2-3

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by jomoman

i re-fitted a 1978 Formosa 46 using Hi-Mod fittings. they're better that the sta-loks, re-usable and stronger. DON'T use a vise to cut the wire, spend the bucks and get a GOOD cable cutter. i did mine with the mast in place, one wire at a time, easy after the first 2-3

1. You say that hi-mod fittings are stronger than Sta-Loks. Please justify that statement. I believe that all the available mechanical terminals are stronger than the wire that goes into them so it likely does not matter which is stronger anyhow!

2. You say not to use a vice to cut the wire. Why not?... (assuming you don't really mean to cut the wire with a vise, but to hold the wire whilst cutting with some other tool). I've cut a lot of wire held in a vise with no issues, using both a hack saw and a grinder.

Jim

[CarinaPDX]

I rigged Carina in 1980 using Sta-Loks. I had access to a vise which was helpful. My brand new cable cutter (professional, bought from my cable supplier), rated for 3/8" wire, failed with a broken jaw on the second cut on 5/16" type 304 wire. I did not like the uneven cut with the cutters so just proceeded with a hacksaw and a good bimetallic blade and got excellent results. I taped with masking tape on both sides of the cut before proceeding. After disassembly to check for a strand in the slot I reassembled with 5200 and thread lock. I made up the entire rigging for Carina in an afternoon and was very pleased with the results.

In 1997 I had to replace the rigging wire while on the Isle of Wight. No problem as a major rigger is located there and they had the cable and cones in stock. This time I did not have a vise so used two wrenches - no problem. Disassembly of the fittings wasn't difficult: cut the cable off about 3/8" above the fitting and after disassembly just hammer the end of the cable (towards the fitting) to break it out of the top.

Just due to the calendar I need to re-rig again soon. I will do the same as last time and will be money ahead of having used swages.

I have no experience with Hi-Mod fittings so can't offer anything there.

Greg

[MicHughV]

You must have gathered by now that Sta-loks are an easy assembly...even for a novice....just follow the instructions and you will be fine.

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by jomoman

i re-fitted a 1978 Formosa 46 using Hi-Mod fittings. they're better that the sta-loks, re-usable and stronger. DON'T use a vise to cut the wire, spend the bucks and get a GOOD cable cutter. i did mine with the mast in place, one wire at a time, easy after the first 2-3

Hi-Mod and Sta-Lok had the same breaking strength according to Practical Sailor's test which was 12,300 lbs

https://www.practical-sailor.com/sai...inal-pull-test

[Don C L]

My headstay. Worked great. Go for it.