Frig using too much power

[ReMetau]

Have you defrosted the freezer?

[MarkJ]

Originally Posted by SV THIRD DAY

That is a great point Mark...care to post a link to that post because you can save quite a bit of power in going from a 0-5-deg F freezer up to the mid to high teens

Sure


http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f91/hot-weather-freezer-fridge-amp-use-minimisation-171079.html

Btw I have one of those portable freezers. In v hot days I chuck a wet towel on top to act as an evaporative cooler. It works!

[Richard Kollmann]

Your best way to improve this type of refrigerator is to improve condenser efficiency by increasing air flow across condenser and dispose of heated air in another area. Sometimes this means adding another fan, or making sure air flow baffling is positioned to guide all fan produced air through condenser. Your objective should be to reduce compressor running time to less then 50% and still maintain freezer temperatures as low as zero.

Copy from my web site under refrigeration fans.

1. Adding an Extra Fan with a snap action thermostat
That is not controlled by the compressor’s electronic module
Normal heat removal from a refrigerator’s condenser, or electronics and even the compressor itself may not be as efficient as it should be. So how can a fan be added to move this unwanted heat away?
To control the exhaust fan or add a condenser fan I have used a snap action fan control thermostat switches available from www Granger at a cost of $12. A fan should only be operated as needed. Their p/n is 2E245 they close at 110˚F and open contacts below 90˚F. When attached to a line from the compressor or warmest spot on refrigerator’s condenser with plastic tie wraps the fan will run when the compressor heats the outlet tubing or condenser coil above 110˚F and shuts off the fan when temperature switch drops to 90˚. Power wire for this fan circuit must be fused to the correct size. This snap action switch is good for 10 amps at 12 or 110 volts. See Granger catalog.

[Cavalier]

Originally Posted by Richard Kollmann

Their p/n is 2E245 they close at 110˚F and open contacts below 90˚F. .

This is a great solution. However, I believe Granger has discontinued 2E245 but 6UED5 is a viable alternative:

https://www.grainger.com/mobile/prod...ytics=altItems

Sent from mTalk

[johnr9q]

This is the original poster back again. Thanks for all your help.
1. The fridge had been on for 3 days before running the test. All contents were cold
2. The fridge is totally defrosted
3. I did install an auxillary fan to help with circulation. It is on a thermostat and goes on when the ambient temp is over 90 degrees
4. The Fridge has plenty of circulation in the rear from the bottom to the top
5. I do not have a keel cooler
6. Some talked about my fridge temps being too hot. If I lowered the thermostat to 40 and 0 the fridge would run even more and make my comparison with the factory specs even worse
7. I was hoping that someone else that had my unit or something very similar could check to see how much it cycles on 90 degree days.
8. Like I said in the original post my fridge is running much longer that what the manufacturer said it should (and this is even with the frig being set at a higher temp) So I wonder if what the manufacturer publishes is just misinformation to get you to buy the unit thinking it is much more efficient than it really is.
9. Other people's actual experience is what I am looking for

[Richard Kollmann]

Originally Posted by johnr9q

This is the original poster back again. Thanks for all your help.

8. Like I said in the original post my fridge is running much longer that what the manufacturer said it should (and this is even with the frig being set at a higher temp) So I wonder if what the manufacturer publishes is just misinformation to get you to buy the unit thinking it is much more efficient than it really is.
9. Other people's actual experience is what I am looking for

Most advertised claims from these small job shop owners are because of experience, honest reliable test data history and more importantly to them motivated by selling refrigerators. Most of these cabinet type RV refrigerators perform well only in an air conditioned environments.

From the information you provided looks like your only option is to up grade the boats power grid by adding wind and or solar alternative energy.

[Kenomac]

Keep cool air blowing over the compressor via a little 12v or 24v computer type fan, and make sure to defrost your freezer condenser weekly or as necessary. The amount of power required to run things goes up dramatcally with a half inch to one inch of ice coating your condenser.

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, John.

[GulfportBarb]

Our fridge was overworking also. We took apart our Alder Barbour Cold Machine and discovered the fan next to the compressor had stopped working. We are waiting for the replacement and are also installing a new digital thermometer.

[ErikFinn]

I think the consumption is a bit high. Prob due to the very high ambient temp. As suggested, I would consider the fan. A good Noctua computer fan draws only 0.09 amps or less. That's the rate of my 14cm Noctua fan. And they are so quiet youll think its inoperative.
I recently bought a 150l household 240v fridge freezer. 80w consumption specified. I tested it with a watt reader, similar as kill-a-watt ones. After filled to about half full it draws about 90 to 100 ams per 24 hour period. After its cooled down all the foods and drinks and I don't open the door, thermostat at about 3/4 setting, it draws 50 amps per 24 hours. (amps after conversion to 12v, no inverter, from 240v shore power ). I keep ice substitute in the freezer, seems to help. But its well ventilated at the moment as I haven't installed it yet, its just sitting on the floor. And my air con keeps the ambient temps at about 23 to 25C (73 to 77F).
So, comparing my 200 usd Sanyo house fridge to your 1000 usd marine fridge, I seem to draw less, but my volume is about 50 % more. Also my ambient temps are cool and air conned. I haven't tested it without air con yet.
But I would say yes, I think you draw a bit much. Is the insulation pretty much same as on a basic house fridge?

[Scaramanga F25]

Sounds about right for the type of fridge. 20 mins on 20 mins off.

[chala]

Originally Posted by johnr9q

8. Like I said in the original post my fridge is running much longer that what the manufacturer said it should

Did the manufacturer state that the fridge should run 42% of the time at Power use 2.5 amps at 90 degrees, Freezer 0 degrees and frig 41 degrees ?

Originally Posted by MarkJ

The other point is you don't need -18C for a freezer.

Originally Posted by Richard Kollmann

After the change from water to ice only ½ of a Btu per pound per degree can be stored.

For a eutectic the more heat is removed, the better.

[johnr9q]

Originally Posted by Kenomac

Keep cool air blowing over the compressor via a little 12v or 24v computer type fan, and make sure to defrost your freezer condenser weekly or as necessary. The amount of power required to run things goes up dramatcally with a half inch to one inch of ice coating your condenser.

Read line 3 of my second response. Thanks

[johnr9q]

Chala you said: Did the manufacturer state that the fridge should run 42% of the time at Power use 2.5 amps at 90 degrees, Freezer 0 degrees and frig 41 degrees ?

Yes that is what the manufacturer stated. Read line 7 of my original post

[johnr9q]

Originally Posted by Richard Kollmann

Most advertised claims from these small job shop owners are because of experience, honest reliable test data history and more importantly to them motivated by selling refrigerators. Most of these cabinet type RV refrigerators perform well only in an air conditioned environments.

Questions about your statements.
1. You said "small job shop owners" who are your referring to because I wouldn't call Dometic a small job shop.
2. You said these owners base their claims on "experience, honest reliable test data history" which sound to me like you think their claims are accurate.
3. Then you say "more importantly to them motivated by selling refrigerators" here it sounds like their claims are not accurate. I don't understand.
4. You say: "Most of these cabinet type RV refrigerators perform well only in an air conditioned environments".
4a. Did you realize my fridge is a compressor type?
4b. I would think that an absorption fridge wouldn't work well in a non air conditioned environment but I would think a compressor type would work better.
4c. What type of fridge would you recommend for a non air conditioned environment?