How to find parts for fabrication? Yanmar DIY generator

[xymotic]

Hi everyone

I'm trying to build a DIY generator / compressor / pressure washer / Watermaker

I Scored a Yanmar 2tvt70 2 cyl 12hp motor it came out of a blackrock (no longer made) Semi-truck APU with only 5 hours on it and came with a 110v generator head

But I keep getting stuck and the most fundamentally basic levels; such as I need a crankshaft pulley to drive a 8 groove belt and a tensioner

I've tried calling Thermo-king and dynasys which seem like they have a similar if not exact same setup; but so far have completely stuck out

It's frustrating because I just know there are 5 applicable pulleys sitting in my local autozone; but I have zero ability to cross reference anything and make it fit

So far I've found out the motor has an "SAE #6" flywheel but I haven't been able to figure out what that means in relation to any other part I know that John Deere probably makes some piece of equipment that has the exact pulley I need but you call the parts department and they have no ability to look anything up w/o a P/n

Anybody able to clue me in as to how to find a part like that?

[Kevin84]

Question? Are you building a generator only or are you trying to build everything you mentioned into one unit?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[Pauls]

You are going to have do some homework. In addition to finding pulleys that will fit you are going to need to calculate what pulley sizes you will need for the various things you'll be running. And how to connect/disconnect them when you don't a certain piece of gear. You definitely do not want to run a compressor at the same time you are, say, generating, unless you are only putting a small load on the generator.

The compressor will need an unloader to protect against overpressure and compressor damage.

You're also going to need to design/fab mounts for all this gear.

McMaster Carr is a good source for a wide variety of pulleys. There are adapters that allow them to mount on a variety of shafts.

I did this with a diesel powered welder and air compressor I needed to build my boat. It worked out well. I wish you luck with yours.

[xymotic]

Originally Posted by Kevin84

Question? Are you building a generator only or are you trying to build everything you mentioned into one unit?

One unit (see below)

Originally Posted by Pauls

You are going to have do some homework. In addition to finding pulleys that will fit you are going to need to calculate what pulley sizes you will need for the various things you'll be running. And how to connect/disconnect them when you don't a certain piece of gear. You definitely do not want to run a compressor at the same time you are, say, generating, unless you are only putting a small load on the generator.

The compressor will need an unloader to protect against overpressure and compressor damage.

You're also going to need to design/fab mounts for all this gear.

McMaster Carr is a good source for a wide variety of pulleys. There are adapters that allow them to mount on a variety of shafts.

I did this with a diesel powered welder and air compressor I needed to build my boat. It worked out well. I wish you luck with yours.

Thanks; I actually looked at McMaster but I can't seem to figure out the difference between SK or DF or whatever Bushings; much less figure out if it will even fit the flywheel

I think I have a lead on a local source (Maguire Bearing) where someone maybe able to hold my hand a little; but so far the total extent of the project is that I have a generator head with a 3- 1/4" sheave on it and I think can figure out how to do the calculations to convert the motor's 1800 RPM into 3600 required by the genhead

But that's where I get totally stuck; I can't even seem to find "A" pulley that will fit the flywheel much less trying to pick a size and then to confuse even more I need to replace what's on the gen with an electric clutch so like you said I can pick and choose what is being powered


So just for example; @ Mcmaster carr I think I can use one of these 10 groove pulley's to drive the 8 groove genny McMaster-Carr

But then it says JA or SH bushings but when I look at bushings I see nothing that looks like pic below McMaster-Carr


I found an old manual for the APU so basically I have the motor; and the gen head in this pic and that's it

PaulS I want to do similar to you; I have a steel boat I am currently refitting; and ideally it'd be nice to have a stand alone 220 power for welding and a compressed air as part of the boat's systems instead of separate gas powered portables I have now And then eventually I'd like to fab up a pressure washer that can blast the anchor chain when it comes up or change a valve and have it run a watermaker But for now I'd just like to mount the motor in a frame and get the genhead running kinda like the picture

[Zai]

I've built such a system, but without the extra engine. I made a bracket to hang a hydraulic pump on the main (with an electric clutch). Then placed the compressor, generator, washdown pump in various locations using solenoid valves to control on off.

[Pauls]

Regards the difference between SK, SF, etc bushings, if you go to www.mcmaster.com and enter the QD (quick disconnect) bushing section there will be a link to drawings, dimensions for all these things. Basically, all these are easy to use clamp type bushings that allow you to mount a pulley onto a shaft. The pulley will have a tapered hole at its center which is sized for a particular size of bushing (ie SK, SD, SF, whatever). You buy the pulley you need, the pulley will specify what type mounting bushing it is made for. You also buy one of those bushings which has an inside diameter to match the shaft you are mounting it on. Note - the bushings are also made with and without keyways. If you have a keyway on the shaft get a bushing with a keyway, and get a key too.

Pulleys are also, of course, made that do not use these adapter bushings. In that case the pulley is machined to match the shaft it mounts on. This is also simple - measure the shaft and buy the pulley to match it, and a key for the keyway.

Mcmaster almost always has drawings and specs for what it sells. They are helpful.

[xymotic]

Originally Posted by Pauls

Regards the difference between SK, SF, etc bushings, if you go to www.mcmaster.com and enter the QD (quick disconnect) bushing section there will be a link to drawings, dimensions for all these things. Basically, all these are easy to use clamp type bushings that allow you to mount a pulley onto a shaft. The pulley will have a tapered hole at its center which is sized for a particular size of bushing (ie SK, SD, SF, whatever). You buy the pulley you need, the pulley will specify what type mounting bushing it is made for. You also buy one of those bushings which has an inside diameter to match the shaft you are mounting it on. Note - the bushings are also made with and without keyways. If you have a keyway on the shaft get a bushing with a keyway, and get a key too.

Pulleys are also, of course, made that do not use these adapter bushings. In that case the pulley is machined to match the shaft it mounts on. This is also simple - measure the shaft and buy the pulley to match it, and a key for the keyway.

Mcmaster almost always has drawings and specs for what it sells. They are helpful.

Thank you; if you see the center of the picture above; there is no shaft at all; the pulley has an extended ring that sits in the flywheel which I think is important to keep it centered and then it's attached via 6 bolts I have a feeling I will have to have something machined



I didn't make any progress at all today; but I do have to brag a little bit

Today I bought a Boston whaler Squall in like new condition for $1300 and got with it a very good cond recent honda 2.5 4 stroke a minn-kota electric trolling motor with a new Grp 24 and a small trailer

-AND-

When we were loading it in the van the guy was admiring the little yanmar and when I explained what I wanted to do he says to me" Hey I have a Cat High Pressure pump you might like

Takes me to the garage and whips out a BRAND NEW one of these:
World Leader in Triplex High Pressure Pumps

How much you want for it?

"$100"


Ummmmm yeah OK and then in my head said "Whhhhheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"

I am a little worried 700 PSI won't be enough though?? Any thoughts about that oh wise ones?

[Pauls]

700 PSI for what?

[xymotic]

Originally Posted by Pauls

700 PSI for what?

Watermaker

So far the only DIY watermaker I've seen says you need 1000 PSI

[Cheechako]

I would be careful attaching a long 8 groove pulley extended out from the flywheel like that. Forces toward the end of the pulley will be deflecting it off center, as the engine rotates this may become harmonically out of balance and cause failure. If you try it DO NOT use aluminum, as it deflects at much lower forces than steel. I've had a 3 groove aluminum one fail that was made in the same manner. An end support/bearing would be very nice.
I guess I'm unclear what all you are trying to add to it? Possible to use electric clutches and less belts?

[xymotic]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

I would be careful attaching a long 8 groove pulley extended out from the flywheel like that. Forces toward the end of the pulley will be deflecting it off center, as the engine rotates this may become harmonically out of balance and cause failure. If you try it DO NOT use aluminum, as it deflects at much lower forces than steel. I've had a 3 groove aluminum one fail that was made in the same manner. An end support/bearing would be very nice.

What's the alternative? put a coupling onto the flywheel into a shaft that's supported by an end bearing? it would take a lot more space but in many ways might 'fix' my can't find the sprocket problem

[jcapo]

Originally Posted by xymotic

So far the only DIY watermaker I've seen says you need 1000 PSI

Not true. Filmtec membranes are rated at 1000psi max and speced at 800psi. I run my DIY watermaker with a Filmtec SW30-2540 membrane at 820 to 840psi.

[goboatingnow]

If it's a cat 1010 that's rated a bit light for seawater RO, depending on salinity and temp you want an operating pressure from about 700psi to 950pdi. Usually you would rate the pump at say 1200 psi to avoid running right on the limits.


As to driving all those devices, some of these will have considerable power requirements and you can have serious side loading issues.

You may need a jack shaft design to upload those forces appropriately

Dave


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[xymotic]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

If it's a cat 1010 that's rated a bit light for seawater RO, depending on salinity and temp you want an operating pressure from about 700psi to 950pdi. Usually you would rate the pump at say 1200 psi to avoid running right on the limits.


As to driving all those devices, some of these will have considerable power requirements and you can have serious side loading issues.

You may need a jack shaft design to upload those forces appropriately

Dave

Thanks a bunch Though I guess I'm such a rube I'm not sure how that works; in a serpentine arrangement; isn't the only real side load the pressure of the tensioner and the torque of the belt itself? (And wouldn't that torque be the same to the crank/main bearings no matter what? For example does a transmission mated to a bell housing induce less stress on the mains because it's aligned and supported?

I have not sat down and done much research yet on which parts I am actually gonna use but in my head I do wanna keep them at or under about 5hp of load I'd like to "maybe" have the option of using two at a time but am thinking the need to do that would be rare

I did find my pulley though; ThermalKing makes a very similar APU for semis and they have the part; they even sent me dimensional drawings a Machinist could use but they also wanted $276 for it and I have a hard time paying half the price of the motor for a frikken aluminium sprocket

I also found a used/dead Blackrock APU with the sprocket for $90 or a brand new one from go green APU for 135

[xymotic]

Just to follow up; I was able to find a part that's used on a couple different semi-truck APU's

Thermo king didn't have it in stock and it was $279 They did however fax me very detailed schematics from which I probably could have had it machined


But then I also found a used one for $90 and a new one from 'go green' apu's for $150 so I went ahead and just got the new on (prolly a waste but oh well)


Anyways the marina guys got the thing hoisted up on deck with a forklift and I started cutting out some steel in the engine room with the plasma cutter

SO I guess that's steps 1 through three of 49,536 of building this thing

Only took me three and half weeks but here's the purdy sprocket