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magentawave · 05-02-2018, 11:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roy M

For those who haven't seen them before, here is a collection of great cartoons from several years ago. They were created by an old friend of mine, Bob Ocegueda, who had a Searunner 37 back in the day. The subjects range over several adventures and trips Bob took.

Cartoon stories about Nautical Tales

Very enjoyable. Thank you.

md7a · 12-02-2018, 20:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by slowbat

Hey All,
I'm looking for some ideas around a cockpit centerboard plug with drains. I currently use a closed cell foam block jammed in the gap as tons of water gushes out under sail. The issue is the cockpit fills up when sailing in the rain.
Has anyone come up with some neat solutions using duckbill or joker valves?
Thanks!

P.S. I do NOT recommend using the same hatches I used in the floor of the cock-pit (leak like crazy-redesign in process)

3rd photo: The late Jo Hudson & me in Victoria last summer at the end of stage one of R2AK

Dan,
Congratulations, the boat looks great!

My old 25 had a similar issue, though perhaps not as extreme as yours, by the sound of it.
I built a kind of narrow heating vent grille insert for the trunk, with the louvres angled to splash the water back down, but allow cockpit water to drain. It reduced the splash factor but did not eliminate it.

if you're interested I will look around for a photo or drawing.

Buzzman · 14-02-2018, 16:49

Anyone looking for a cheap Searunner 31, there's one for sale in QLD Australia

Not mine, don't know anything more than what's in the gumtree ad.
https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/cabo...ran/1175065369

snort · 14-02-2018, 17:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buzzman

Anyone looking for a cheap Searunner 31, there's one for sale in QLD Australia

Not mine, don't know anything more than what's in the gumtree ad.
https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/cabo...ran/1175065369

That looks like a very good deal! No mention of water intrusion into the plywood. Sails are expensive, but for $5K AUD, hard to go wrong.

Buzzman · 14-02-2018, 17:21

Owner does mention water ingress from deck leaks, so may require some new wood or at least caulking.

aquavitae · 17-02-2018, 04:48

There is a good looking SR 40 for sale in Colon, Panama on the Caribbean side of the Canal. Looks like much recent work was done to head into the Pacific, including a new engine in 2016. Sadly, life circumstances forcing owner to sell, I know the feeling.
Find it on Apollo Duck International-Trimarans- $69K

longjonsilver · 17-02-2018, 05:57

Quote:

There is a good looking SR 40 for sale in Colon, Panama on the Caribbean side of the Canal. Looks like much recent work was done to head into the Pacific, including a new engine in 2016. Sadly, life circumstances forcing owner to sell, I know the feeling.
Find it on Apollo Duck International-Trimarans- $69K

Does anybody have a feel for whether this is a good deal or not? i know there is a CC40 for sale in Maine for $70K and a CC35 just sold for ??? (the asking price was $30K).

jon

Mark Johnson · 18-02-2018, 16:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by longjonsilver

Does anybody have a feel for whether this is a good deal or not? i know there is a CC40 for sale in Maine for $70K and a CC35 just sold for ??? (the asking price was $30K).

jon

Each custom built/one off boat is as different as night and day. All great designs, and always, the larger boats cost FAR more to own and sail, but have more room, payload, and a nicer motion.

Comparing boats of the same design... West System boats with LP paint, built by EXPERIENCED multihull builders, are better than old technology, and worth twice as much.

The CC boats need to be a few feet longer than a Searunner to be comparable, but are simpler and sleeker, with similar layouts.

multihuler · 18-02-2018, 16:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by longjonsilver

Does anybody have a feel for whether this is a good deal or not? i know there is a CC40 for sale in Maine for $70K and a CC35 just sold for ??? (the asking price was $30K).

jon

I looked at 4 cc35s, the one in Quebec had nice hulls but bad interior, it sold under $25k.

Mark Johnson · 18-02-2018, 18:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by longjonsilver

Just finished reading Mark Johnson's excellent book on anchoring for the second time and i have a couple of questions on the use of moorings.

i can understand how the mooring ball can get under the wings on our Searunners or other multihulls, damaging the topsides, and i can understand the theory of how a temporary anchoring bowsprit, like a carbon fiber mast from a windsurfer could function to prevent damage to our hulls by the steel mooring ball. My question and concern is that this would have to be really stout to prevent it failing at the worst possible time. i have a carbon fiber windsurfer mast in the garage and i doubt that it would be sufficient to handle a 34' tri, much less anything larger. An aluminum mast from a 16-24' boat would probably be sufficient, altho i don't know if it could be made removable or not. Thots?

Secondly, the use of multiple anchors to a bridle to make a mooring or to anchor in an area of reversing current (or approaching thunderstorms) raises a couple of questions in my mind on technique. On the drawing of the mooring with the three anchors to the double swivel oval, i notice chains coming off the oval, and it says "Tail to rode, 2 line bowline knots". Can you explain how the anchor rode is set up? Is it set up without a chain? What do you mean by "2 line bowline knots"? Also, in the photo of the double swivel oval, i see that two rodes are spliced into a thimble and the other is tied into the shackle. Can you explain the difference?

Thirdly, on the bridal end Bahamian moor, your pic shows a ring with three ropes thimbled to it. Are two of them anchor rodes and one is a tail? Or are all three tails? Is one tied to the anchoring bridle? Are these tails tied with a two line bowline? (again, please explain the 2 line bowline). If one doesn't have a motorized dinghy, (by choice or by circumstance) how can one set the second anchor other than using the engine on the mothership?

Thanks Mark for all your help and please forgive all the dumb questions.

jon

PS check out my new avatar

The idea of a light weight sprit to keep moorings out in front of a tri was just a theory, I admit... but except in a racing current that opposes the light wind, it would only happen in near “0” wind, like seconds before being slammed by a quickly reversing wind as a thunderstorm approaches.

The load is very minimal, and a windsurfer pole should be plenty if it is Dynema bridled to the amas, and can move up and down as the boat pitches. All of the load is in compression.

I had a mooring ball in St John, under our newly painted wing, for 45 minutes in a full gale thunderstorm, in the middle of the night.

Mooring balls can really booger up a trimaran!

aquavitae · 24-02-2018, 15:32

Mark or anybody on this,

Ever heard of an Intercontinental Trimaran?

Looking at one in Fla., built in 68, 36 ft, balsa cored and fiberglass hull - photos look pretty good. Supposedly built in North Carolina but can find NOTHING on the internet about their provenance. Corinthian built some nice glass tri's in Tarpon Springs, Fla. in same time frame but no relation to this vessel.

Any info greatly appreciated,
Bob Petersen

smj · 24-02-2018, 15:35

We looked at it quite a few years ago. Very well kept and seemed stoutly built, which probably means heavy. Not a huge amount of space but I really liked it.

Sent from my iPhone using Cruisers Sailing Forum

rossad · 26-02-2018, 00:30

This 37 ft Searunner "Sea Weaver" has just arrived back in NZ. I think the owner is thinking of selling. It has got some really good design features to the boat. Excellent self steering and gone through a Cat 4 Cyclone or Hurricane.
In excellent condition and well built.
Harder to find good 37ft Searunners these days.