Heaving to advice

[Mg451]

I understand all boats will behave diff and require diff sail techniques so i know theres no particular answer im just looking for people within similar boats cutter rigged for some advice. My Boats a cutter with a yankee jib and staysail both on furlers. My staysail travelers are about 2ft behind and to the side of the mast (theyre really far inboard). The main is a full batten main. Boats a downeaster 32 17000lb displacement full keel cut away forefoot. Ive Read storm tactics and im ready to practice . Seems like the pardeys heave to with just the mIn or reefed main. So im gonna start there. Seems most people just tack with out moving the jib? So i would use my staysail (?) Otherwise my seet loads would be on my shrouds or is that acceptable? Dont lije the idea of my sheets tight on the shrouds..my cutter rig as designed has a bowsprit and my staysail shroud goes clear to the bow. Cant remember seeing many cutters this way but its designer made it this way. Any words of wisdom before i head out shouldnt be blowing more maybe 15 -20knts and 3 foot seas. Nut i feel like after reading storm tactics this is a mandatory skill set and one ive never tried yet. Im a novice sailor...

[MicHughV]

Best way to find out is to play around with it.....take your boat out and try different combo's until you find something that works for YOU.

[Mg451]

Aint nothing to it. But to do it i guess

[Stu Jackson]

"my boat" is what boat, specifically? That might help more of us to help you.

[Mg451]

Downeaster 32 forgot that bit...

[Joh.Ghurt]

With my cutter-rigged boat I found heaving-to works best with the staysail alone (no yankee) and a loose main sheet. I sometimes heave-to when I need to reef the main while being alone. Works nicely.

Mic above has it right. Just try it while you're out to have calm tea or to watch the world float by.

[Mg451]

Do you sheet in your staysail tight? My traveler sherts my staysail pretty much midship wonder if this will be an issue. My staysail travelrs are after market not by the designer winder if theyre to far in.

[AnsleyS]

We had a Downeaster 38 and she hove to very well. You will find that a reef in the main will help but you can do it with a full main also. Sail along close hauled on a port tack with the stays'l in tight and then come about but do not slack the starboard stays'l sheet. Hold her tight to the wind with the back winded stays'l as she looses speed then bring the wheel to starboard (or the tiller to port) until she is in irons. Adjust the wheel angle to hold her stable and then secure the wheel and she will sit 30 to 70 degrees off the wind and make about a knot on a starboard tack. you can adjust the angle of the boat to the wind by slightly slacking the main or the stays'l sheets. You can then have lunch, take a nap or cuddle with someone fun.


The more that you do it the better you will be. We used to heave to for lunch.

[Mg451]

Great info . So if i use that combination in say 20 knots if it picks up to say 30 ( just generally speaking) i would use the same sail config just reef the main and maybe a few wraps on the staysail? How do i know if im over canvassed when heaving to? Shell fore reach or excessive heel?....now i just need some one fun to cuddle with haha

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by AnsleyS

cuddle with someone fun.

Originally Posted by AnsleyS

The more that you do it the better you will be.

Yes, I think most of us will agree with that

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by Mg451

Great info . So if i use that combination in say 20 knots if it picks up to say 30 ( just generally speaking) i would use the same sail config just reef the main and maybe a few wraps on the staysail? How do i know if im over canvassed when heaving to? Shell fore reach or excessive heel?....now i just need some one fun to cuddle with haha

Many folks heave to because they are over canvassed, and use the move to reduce sail, most often the mainsail. First I've ever heard anyone wonder about being over-ed when hove to! Basically: not an issue.


We have also learned and explained to many new sailors, that large jibs make it harder to heave to because they tend to push the bow around instead of allowing the boat to settle in. Therefore, your staysail should be perfect for this maneuver. We generally recommend a 110 or less for a sloop.


When you study how your boat handles, you will notice that the main may well be almost luffing. If it is, then, having too much up isn't an issue, is it?


Also take heed of Ansley's idea: Hold her tight to the wind with the back winded stays'l as she looses speed then bring the wheel to starboard...


Don't jerk your way around, come around slowly, let the ss catch the wind and slow you down, then and only then complete the turn. Why? Otherwise you could just go around in circles! Did to me the first time, too.


Play BOTH the wheel or tiller and the mainsheet and traveler.

[JPA Cate]

I would suggest that you move the starboard staysail sheet car to the forward most spot on its sheet track, before you heave to on starboard tack. [It is the opposite for port tack.] A lot of getting the boat to stop, and not fore-reach, has to do with how far you can actually back the staysail. I'd try using the genoa, if it won't work with the staysail. You want as much as possible sail area backed, to work opposite the lift from the main, and if the staysail won't back enough, the boat will just sail off on the new tack, with the sail backed.

If you are getting too much drive from the main, then, reef it. You are looking to balance the forces between the main, headsail, and rudder. Once you're set, you're good to observe the changes. I would strongly recommend you use the technique in a seaway with a good sea built up, it's a little easier to learn how it all fits together, and to see the relief in motion heaving to can bring. Do remember it isn't the only tactic, and a some point of rising and/or breaking seas, it is no longer safe from rolling the boat, and then, you may have to run off under staysail, just a scrap of it, and maybe even add a drogue.

When sailing coastally, always heave to on the offshore tack. Check the chart for hazards along your new track. INshore, it is traditional to heave to on stbd, for "maintaining course and speed"... you're still the "stand on" boat.

Had some friends who streamed their Jordan series drogue off the bow, for a sea anchor one time. Did stop the boat, but they forgot about the south setting current, and woke up in the morning 40 miles south of where they'd deployed it. Just a little heads up that coastal currents will affect your drift rate and direction.

Ann

[psk125]

It's good to practice and see what works for you and for your boat. Not something to get too hung up on, however. Despite sailing in conditions from gales and squalls to flat calms ranging from the US East coast to Europe, the Caribbean and Central America over more than 50 years, no boat I've been aboard has yet needed to heave to.

[Mg451]

Thanks for all the great info i will give it a shot!

[Manateeman]

Your boat is very similar to the Bruce King which I built and have for sale. Our staysail had no boom and did not come aft of the mast.
What we did have was two runners from where the staysail attaches to the mast which was about 3/4 the way up.
We found that the runners would stop all the mast pumping and we could motor sail in some nasty stuff.
Supporting the mast we had twin full length back stays as well.
Our rudder is further aft but the hull shapes are very similar.
Never used a sea anchor and only once a drought.
It’s a great offshore design...worry not.
Captain Mark