Pearson 36 Sloop - Opinions?

[PHRF57]

My family had one of the first Pearson 36's, which we selected based on the prior success of the Pearson 30 in light air as a MORC racer in the Marblehead fleet, as well as the success that the factory prototype had racing on Long Island sound. Sadly, we got creamed by the one-offs of that era (this was at the height of the 27.5 one ton rating in IOR), so from a racing standpoint, the boat failed to live up to expectations. However, from a structural standpoint, it was solid, and with the exception of a significant weather helm on tight reaches ( I think the rudder was too small, and her beam in the aft sections was also modest), I recall that she was a pleasure to sail.
One caveat: the boats that were raced definitely needed additional track and deck hardware, which might ultimately have led to wetness and deck issues. Be sure to do a very thorough check of the deck, looking for soft spots.

Good luck with her!

[redhead]

We had a 70s Pearson - a ketch, not a sloop so I can't speak to the sloop's sailing abilities. The hull was massively built compared to today's boat, something I found reassuring as a new sailor. We had no leaks except around two of the port lights. Our ketch was a slug in light winds until we put a Max Prop on her and then she could sail in 3 knots of wind. If she had more room below we would still have that boat.

[Cheechako]

Those pearson's aren't bad for a middle of the road production boat. Great underbody. Any old boat can have problems with these fairly expensive items, so check it out well:
-engine
-rigging old
-sails
-rudder full of water
-tanks failing
-blisters/osmosis
-Chainplates need renewed
-If bolted on keel -renew bolts etc.
-leaks or blurry "windows" or portlights, or bolts at toerail.
-Prop shaft/cutlass bearing bad especially if it's sat a long time.

[George DuBose]

Skylark is a 1973 P-36-1 that I paid 40K for. There were only two of this model on the market when I made my purchase on eBay after having a survey. The surveyor told me not to buy the boat.

When he outlined the problems, I knew that leaking chainplates were repairable , the untested electronics were so old that I would be replacing all of them anyway.

In short, I replaced everything but the mast, boom, bow and stern rails and stanchions. I bought this particular boat because it has a new Yanmar 3Gm30F with only 100 hours on it.

The PO was not into maintenance and only Awlgripped hull and the stereo were worth keeping.

I have written a book about the purchase, renovation (all the wiring and plumbing was redone), sailing the boat across the Atlantic and then paying VAT and having the boat CE marked with an RCD rating "A".

The book is titled "Renovate a Sailboat and Cross the Atlantic". It details all the upgrades and renovations.

This is my second Pearson, I still have a P26. These are solid boats, but for offshore work they need some minor modifications, like gaskets on the lazarette hatches. The Dutch Post-construction Assessment surveyor required that I make 5 minor modifications and all in all, Skylark is a better, safer boat than when she was new.

Not only are Pearson's very solid, but they are fast.

You can PM me anytime with any questions. Since I keep my boat in The Netherlands and live in Germany, I can't come visit you and the Pearson you find. If you give me your email address, I can send you a link to a video of last year's cruise down the coast of Normandy to The Channel Islands.

Also, search for Sailing Uma on YouTube and the young owners of Uma a P36-1 have done extremely extensive repairs and renovations.

Good luck, you are on the right track.

[George DuBose]

"Renovate a Sailboat and Cross the Atlantic" is only available on Amazon as a printed book or eBook.

[Revenue Cutter]

As a business venture we purchased a new Pearson 365 (hull #278) and put ithem in a charter service along with a number of other boats in the 26 - 46 ft size range. Plus we chartered other Pearson (365's and 424's) when on vacation. These Pearsons took a real beating, but held up remarkably well.

Although the 365 came as a ketch, to accommodate chartering I experimented with it being rigged as a cutter which wasn't all that successful. As a sloop in charter service it was fine, but it was definitely not a racing boat.

The greatest single maintenance challenge was addressing a leaking fuel tank. We inserted a bladder which we later replaced with a solid (maybe fiberglass or composite???) insert.

What needed inspecting most often was the cabling with the Edson pedastal steering.

[George DuBose]

Originally Posted by Revenue Cutter

Although the 365 came as a ketch, to accommodate chartering I experimented with it being rigged as a cutter which wasn't all that successful. As a sloop in charter service it was fine, but it was definitely not a racing boat.

The greatest single maintenance challenge was addressing a leaking fuel tank. We inserted a bladder which we later replaced with a solid (maybe fiberglass or composite???) insert.

What needed inspecting most often was the cabling with the Edson pedastal steering.

I don't know about Pearson 365s, but Mariah, a P36-1 won the Marion-Bermuda race just a few years ago. Skylark also a P36-1 regularly walks past Bavarias of a greater length.

She exceeds her rated hull speed regularly even in less than 15 knots of wind.

Many of the early Pearsons came with a Monel fuel tank which is about as corrosion resistant as one can get.

A vintage Pearson may require its purchase price again in renovation costs, but one will wind up with a fast, strong and safe boat.

Skylark has had her decks recovered, rub rails added, new toe rails and coaming caps. She is basically a new boat with an old mast and hull.

Speaking of the mast, it is a freakin' telephone pole and cannot be bent. The quality of the mast is beyond what is available today for a reasonable cost.

Even a well-maintained example of a P-36-1 will need some upgrading before heading far offshore. In my opinion, these are boats that are well worth upgrading and renovating.

[George DuBose]

One poster wrote: -If bolted on keel -renew bolts etc.

Makes me laugh, I had the Pearson "smile" after hitting a rock at speed. I tried to drop the lead from the keel stub to rebed it, but the keel is glued to the keel stub and the keel bolts are glued into the keel stub as well. This was done when she was built.

What I learned is that 1. the keel bolts are "J" bolts and 5/8" bronze and 2. the keel ain't coming off even without the nuts on the bolts.

It wouldn't be possible to replace the "J" bolts without casting a new keel.

Many of the parts Pearson used are bronze, the W/C seacocks, the keel bolts, the rudder post and fingers in the rudder, the rudder stuffing box, the propeller shaft stuffing box, all the screws used to fix the teak to the deck.

My Wilcox/Crittenden seacocks are 43 years old and when I last serviced them, they looked like new. That kind of quality isn't available today, no matter how much you care to spend.

[George DuBose]

One poster wrote: -If bolted on keel -renew bolts etc.

Makes me laugh, I had the Pearson "smile" after hitting a rock at speed. I tried to drop the lead from the keel stub to rebed it, but the keel is glued to the keel stub and the keel bolts are glued into the keel stub as well. This was done when she was built.

What I learned is that 1. the keel bolts are "J" bolts and 5/8" bronze and 2. the keel ain't coming off even without the nuts on the bolts.

It wouldn't be possible to replace the "J" bolts without casting a new keel.

Many of the parts Pearson used are bronze, the W/C seacocks, the keel bolts, the rudder post and fingers in the rudder, the rudder stuffing box, the propeller shaft stuffing box, all the screws used to fix the teak to the deck.

As far as the Edson chain/cable steering system. The only problem I ever have had is that none of the POs bothered to remove the compass and squirt a little Teflon grease into the holes to lubricate the stainless steel needle bearings that became full of aluminum oxide. Swapped 'em out and haven't had any problems since. One does have to maintain these systems.

My Wilcox/Crittenden seacocks are 43 years old and when I last serviced them, they looked like new. That kind of quality isn't available today, no matter how much you care to spend.

[BigNickMontana]

Originally Posted by George DuBose

Skylark is a 1973 P-36-1 that I paid 40K for. There were only two of this model on the market when I made my purchase on eBay after having a survey. The surveyor told me not to buy the boat.

When he outlined the problems, I knew that leaking chainplates were repairable , the untested electronics were so old that I would be replacing all of them anyway.

In short, I replaced everything but the mast, boom, bow and stern rails and stanchions. I bought this particular boat because it has a new Yanmar 3Gm30F with only 100 hours on it.

The PO was not into maintenance and only Awlgripped hull and the stereo were worth keeping.

I have written a book about the purchase, renovation (all the wiring and plumbing was redone), sailing the boat across the Atlantic and then paying VAT and having the boat CE marked with an RCD rating "A".

The book is titled "Renovate a Sailboat and Cross the Atlantic". It details all the upgrades and renovations.

This is my second Pearson, I still have a P26. These are solid boats, but for offshore work they need some minor modifications, like gaskets on the lazarette hatches. The Dutch Post-construction Assessment surveyor required that I make 5 minor modifications and all in all, Skylark is a better, safer boat than when she was new.

Not only are Pearson's very solid, but they are fast.

You can PM me anytime with any questions. Since I keep my boat in The Netherlands and live in Germany, I can't come visit you and the Pearson you find. If you give me your email address, I can send you a link to a video of last year's cruise down the coast of Normandy to The Channel Islands.

Also, search for Sailing Uma on YouTube and the young owners of Uma a P36-1 have done extremely extensive repairs and renovations.

Good luck, you are on the right track.

I just ordered a copy of your book, I will pick it up next time I get through the house in about a month or so.

I was an Aviation Electronics Technician in the Navy, you can bet ill be gutting the wiring and replacing it with something more up to my specifications. IMHO always money well spent. The idea of being out at sea and having my radios, nav lights or GPS wind up in the crapper isn't exactly my idea of a shiny happy good time.

"paying VAT and having the boat CE marked with an RCD rating "A"." What does this mean?

The more I learn about the Pearson 36 the more I like it.

Also I have seen Sailing Uma, I am pretty impressed with all of the work they did to that boat, you don't see a lot of young folks with that kind of desire and skill any more. I think they have done some really great work and it has given me a lot of ideas for my own.

One of the things that really sets the 36 apart to me is the separate shower, as a live-aboard situation I like the idea of not accidentally winding up with a soaked roll of toilet paper when I need it most.

Thank you for taking the time to throw this info at me, I am really excited to get my hands on that book.

[BigNickMontana]

Originally Posted by PHRF57

My family had one of the first Pearson 36's, which we selected based on the prior success of the Pearson 30 in light air as a MORC racer in the Marblehead fleet, as well as the success that the factory prototype had racing on Long Island sound. Sadly, we got creamed by the one-offs of that era (this was at the height of the 27.5 one ton rating in IOR), so from a racing standpoint, the boat failed to live up to expectations. However, from a structural standpoint, it was solid, and with the exception of a significant weather helm on tight reaches ( I think the rudder was too small, and her beam in the aft sections was also modest), I recall that she was a pleasure to sail.
One caveat: the boats that were raced definitely needed additional track and deck hardware, which might ultimately have led to wetness and deck issues. Be sure to do a very thorough check of the deck, looking for soft spots.

Good luck with her!

That is very good advice, I have been watching a lot of videos about that using the sounding hammer to look for wet spots.

That always seems to be the adventure with buying anything used is finding out why who ever had it before you actually decided to sell it.

[captjcook]

In the last 3 years I was involved in the purchase of two P365's. One from Florida 35k new Beta 38hp (200hrs) and one from Chicago 30k original Westerbeke 40, (1000 hrs only) now in FL. Looked at several others. Soft decks was THE item to avoid and not found on either purchased and both rebedded everything. The one from FL had some minor blisters, Chicago none. FL had mast butt corrosion, PO had installed new step without addressing rusted steel/iron slug. Chicago boat had no rust and a dry bilge. FL boat got topsides in Awlgrip, Chicago got buffed and looks very good. FL boat added a/c and purchased new Genoa and Main. Chicago boat needs all new sails as they are original. FL owner had work done and has ~70...still needs TLC. Chicago boat owner has painted masts with Alexseal (were in excellent shape) he has gone through every system, replaced every hose (deck drains nearly decomposed) and upgraded necessary wiring (PO's stereo install was desiring) although the original ships wiring was pristine! FL boat wiring hacked and unused wiring not removed. The Chicago boat was hardly used, purchased from the son of original owner and as clean and perfect as most boats 30 years newer! IMHO the stove, the oven, the shower were never used. Local well known rigger was enlisted to give final check on rig ($25) mentioned it was nicest 365 he had ever seen.
The separate shower is generous, FL owner is 6'4", 260# does not find it too cramped.
I have sailed both boats, took my friend who bought Chicago boat just after the refit sea trial of FL boat. Sea trailed Chicago boat there. These boats are spacious and comfortable for liveaboard, sea kindly, not rocket ships or rock and rolly ships albeit with shoal draft there is some compromise. A decent, older, production cruiser. Easily singlehanded from my
Point of interest to me...both PO's bought Island Packets, one used, one new.
Both 365's have Frigoboat refrigeration. Both have autopilots, one linear (FL) one wheel pilot (Chicago)
I would be happy to answer additional questions...
Good hunting!



Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by BigNickMontana

One of the things that really sets the 36 apart to me is the separate shower, as a live-aboard situation I like the idea of not accidentally winding up with a soaked roll of toilet paper when I need it most.

Nick, I've never quite understood the TP issue in a shower. That would be the very last place or time I'd think of using it. :face palm:

Our head compartment has a little door that the TP hides behind.

BTW, chainplates should be part of routine maintenance. The fact that they are not is not the fault of the builder.

[BigNickMontana]

Originally Posted by Stu Jackson

Nick, I've never quite understood the TP issue in a shower. That would be the very last place or time I'd think of using it. :face palm:

Our head compartment has a little door that the TP hides behind.

BTW, chainplates should be part of routine maintenance. The fact that they are not is not the fault of the builder.

Boat I used to spend a lot of time on had a combined shower/head, the TP was behind this plastic flip over cover, if you weren't careful water running off your body would flood behind the cover and turn the roll into a wet gooey mess not to be discovered until it was needed.

[BigNickMontana]

Originally Posted by captjcook

In the last 3 years I was involved in the purchase of two P365's. One from Florida 35k new Beta 38hp (200hrs) and one from Chicago 30k original Westerbeke 40, (1000 hrs only) now in FL. Looked at several others. Soft decks was THE item to avoid and not found on either purchased and both rebedded everything. The one from FL had some minor blisters, Chicago none. FL had mast butt corrosion, PO had installed new step without addressing rusted steel/iron slug. Chicago boat had no rust and a dry bilge. FL boat got topsides in Awlgrip, Chicago got buffed and looks very good. FL boat added a/c and purchased new Genoa and Main. Chicago boat needs all new sails as they are original. FL owner had work done and has ~70...still needs TLC. Chicago boat owner has painted masts with Alexseal (were in excellent shape) he has gone through every system, replaced every hose (deck drains nearly decomposed) and upgraded necessary wiring (PO's stereo install was desiring) although the original ships wiring was pristine! FL boat wiring hacked and unused wiring not removed. The Chicago boat was hardly used, purchased from the son of original owner and as clean and perfect as most boats 30 years newer! IMHO the stove, the oven, the shower were never used. Local well known rigger was enlisted to give final check on rig ($25) mentioned it was nicest 365 he had ever seen.
The separate shower is generous, FL owner is 6'4", 260# does not find it too cramped.
I have sailed both boats, took my friend who bought Chicago boat just after the refit sea trial of FL boat. Sea trailed Chicago boat there. These boats are spacious and comfortable for liveaboard, sea kindly, not rocket ships or rock and rolly ships albeit with shoal draft there is some compromise. A decent, older, production cruiser. Easily singlehanded from my
Point of interest to me...both PO's bought Island Packets, one used, one new.
Both 365's have Frigoboat refrigeration. Both have autopilots, one linear (FL) one wheel pilot (Chicago)
I would be happy to answer additional questions...
Good hunting!



Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

You know that totally brought up a really good point, I had not thought about, gonna need Air Conditioning, because I am one of those who can't sleep if I am too hot.