Moorings are usually designed for 2:1
scope, or less if in protected areas. Several sources talk about one "maximum
water depth" of heavy chain and one of lighter chain. Thus the heavy chain sits on the bottom most of the time and lifting it in heavy
weather provides some shock absorption. If things get nasty enough, you’re dependent completely on the mooring anchor.
Lots of people use concrete for mooring anchors. It’s
cheap. But it loses about half its effective weight in
water. So, in very general terms, if the design tables indicate 1000# deadweight anchor, you can get away with a 600# mushroom anchor, or a 2000# concrete block. Four 500# concrete blocks are not equivalent and the
hardware to tie them together creates more failure points. Like any parallel connected system, the load will never be quite evenly distributed. So the weaker link breaks first, putting increased strain on the rest, and so on until you’re drifting.
One can’t "trust" moorings unless you dive to inspect them completely AND have lab tests of the bottom characteristics. Even after all that, the
insurance companies are unhappy with the lack of certainty.
And then something can just break.
Whenever you’re on a mooring, make sure your anchor is quickly and easily deployable.