What NOT to bed with butyl tape?

[minaret]

Originally Posted by MarkSF

Just wondering what the tricks are to doing the beads so neatly.

Tape off for beads, apply with a cordless powered caulking gun for no stops and starts, finger off bead, apply thin coat of acetone with a spray bottle which produces a fine mist, finger off again quickly while wet, pull tape immediately. Be sure to finger off thoroughly till the tape edge shows on both edges, or you'll get stringies when you pull tape. Don't run beads further than you can finger and pull. Ideally a three person job, one on the gun, one fingering out beads, one pulling tape. Have to move fast, especially if it's warm out.

[sparrowhawk1]

Butyl is excellent for chain plates .I also recommend making a "dam" I can't remember what I used, either gel coat with filler or Marine Tex. But I left about a quarter inch Gap all around the chain plate which is filled with butyl.

One thing to note is the black is more gooey than the white, gray's in between

[minaret]

Originally Posted by minaret

Tape off for beads, apply with a cordless powered caulking gun for no stops and starts, finger off bead, apply thin coat of acetone with a spray bottle which produces a fine mist, finger off again quickly while wet, pull tape immediately. Be sure to finger off thoroughly till the tape edge shows on both edges, or you'll get stringies when you pull tape. Don't run beads further than you can finger and pull. Ideally a three person job, one on the gun, one fingering out beads, one pulling tape. Have to move fast, especially if it's warm out.

Forgot, after you tape off for beads but before you lay them, prep with scotch brite very fine.Then wipe clean.

[bbayne]

Originally Posted by CarlF

Has anyone tried butyl on chainplate deck penetrations?

There's no real mechanical seal beyond packing it in with a screwdriver blade. But it would seem to be well suited to the movement at this spot that causes regular caulk to fail.

I have been using butyl on my chainplates for years with absolutely no issues. I originally bedded my chainplates that go through the deck with 3M Marine Sealant 101, which is no longer available. It was a polysulfide sealant and not an adhesive. All 8 chainplates leaked the very first winter when the rains started here in the PNW.

Earlier that year I had replaced my ports with New Found Metal's ports and the manufacturer provided butyl round "tape" to bed and seal the install. I had some left over, so tried it on a single chainplate. It worked like a charm. No more leaking.

I believe the reason it worked so well in my situation is that I chamfered the hole in the deck to allow a bead of butyl to sit between the chainplate and the deck. For compression, my chainplates were topped off with stainless chainplate covers that have a chamfered edge around the hole in the cover (see photo). When the cover is screwed to the deck it creates a compression fitting that compresses the butyl into the chamfer in the deck making a very tight fitting ring of butyl around the chainplate.

None of my chainplates have ever leaked since using butyl.

[BAD ORCA]

My boat builder used the black butyl to bed my chainplates. The covers must have began to leak at some point because the PO tried to re-bed them with silicone.

last year i had the interior ceiling panels removed around hte chainplates for a lighting upgrade. i decided to dig around the top edges of the chainplates where they come through the deck to see what condition they were in. my boat builder decided to coat the top third of every chainplate with black butyl. seems maybe they heated it and slathered a thick layer on them or used a butyl caulking. I had to scrape it off with a putty knife to see the actual steel. they were mirror finished like they were made yesterday. absolutely in pristine condition. i recoated them and sealed it all back up. i guess they knew the chainplate covers would eventually leak so decided to cover the most vulnerable area of them to protect the steel. would highly recommend doing this.

[Flcapt]

Many of you may know that Rod “RC”Collins, the Owner of Marine How To and maker of Bed-it Tape has had a serious health issue and is not for the foreseeable future selling any products. (info from the Marine How to website)
As we keep Rod in our prayers, does any one have any recommendations for a product that might pass as a workable replacement for Bedit?

[mabowers]

Originally Posted by Flcapt

Many of you may know that Rod “RC”Collins, the Owner of Marine How To and maker of Bed-it Tape has had a serious health issue and is not for the foreseeable future selling any products. (info from the Marine How to website)
As we keep Rod in our prayers, does any one have any recommendations for a product that might pass as a workable replacement for Bedit?

Not yet a recommendation, I've only used this for 2 months but I am hopeful:
https://www.lifesafedirect.com/produ...pe-0-75-x-20ft
Available from numerous online retailers.

[deblen]

Originally Posted by Suijin

Mainesail has a tutorial on his bedding technique and advocates bedding the entire bottom surface of the fixture. Excellent article BTW:

Re-Bedding Deck Hardware With Bed-It Tape Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com

Updated website: https://marinehowto.com/bed-it-tape/

[Bowdrie]

Butyl has good, (perhaps its best,) bedding properties in applications where their is a relatively small surface area compared to the number of fasteners.
Examples: a portlight ring, cleat, chain/rope pipe, chock, winch base.
In applications where their is large surface area(s) with few fasteners their are better ways.
A typical windlass may have a footprint that's, say, ~1/2 a sq. ft. with only 4 bolts located at the corners.
Under those conditions repeated tightening only applies large bending forces to the mounting corners without applying much compression force to the middle to effect the "flow" of the Butyl.
In applications such as this a good thick layer of "Dolphinite", with some Butyl around the bolts provides good fastener sealing, and the Dolphinite will easily flow out/around and eliminate any water intrusion under the base.
Dolphinite, it's not just about wood.
As an aside, mounting hardware on raised pads provides an exponentially better long term reliability against leaks.
No matter the caulk material, fastening down stanchion bases directly to a fiberglass deck is poor practice.