Thru hull straight threads to hose barb

[Mg451]

I have gunnels on my boat ( downeaster 32) so my deck must drain through the deck and to a through hull on the outside of the hull. I currently have (2) 1.5" drains. They penatrate the deck then 90 that leads aft for a few inches after to another 90 that goes out the side of the hull. The reason it leads aft would be because it's to tight of a turn to just 90 right overboard. If that makes sense. I have to record my decks and when I take on alot of water it takes to long to drain. So I'll be adding a few more. The factory fittings are bronze oblong custom jobbies. So I found some 90 degree deck drains on Amazon they seem ok

SHENGHUISS 90 Degree 1-1/4" and 1-1/2" Boat Deck Floor Drain Scupper Marine 316 Stainless Steel Deck Floor Drainage Cover with Three Screws https://a.co/d/fZFwQx5

So I had to compromise and get the stainless even though my boats all bronze and I like the classic bronze look. For terminating on the side of the hull I'm gonna use 1 1/2 grocco bronze through hulls. I'm trying to get a bushing to go from straight thread to 90 to hose barb..like this

https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...772724313,cs:1

However this isn't straight thread.
Any ideas?

[HopCar]

Would these help?
https://www.groco.net/products/fitti...-standard-flow

[Mg451]

Yes I'm looking for that minus the swivel nut I feel that's unessary and potential for leaks. But that's what I'm looking for

[Bowdrie]

Murphy's Law states that a non-swivel fitting like the "Google" one will never tighten up while pointing in the direction you want.
Leaks with the Groco fitting?
No way, they use a gasket/O-ring and have been used in underwater applications on seacocks for going on ~100 years.
When Wilcox-Crittenden was making them, (not that long ago,) they were supplied with a leather washer.
Today you can get replacement neoprene "square shaped" O-rings from any plumbing supply, (I get mine at Ace Hardware).
Round O-rings work too.
And the Groco style do not require a lot of torque with a wrench to seal, and disconnecting is easy without removal or cutting of hoses.

[deblen]

You could use one of these (bronze or SS) joined to deck drain with a short hose.


https://www.westmarine.com/t-h-marin...-18598276.html

[HopCar]

Originally Posted by Mg451

Yes I'm looking for that minus the swivel nut I feel that's unessary and potential for leaks. But that's what I'm looking for

With straight threads and an elbow the swivel nut is necessary to allow you to point the hose barb in the direction you want. There is a gasket inside the nut to prevent leaks.

Back in the old days of tapered cone seacocks these were used to connect hoses to the seacock. Spartan still uses them. Even the straight ones use a gasket. They don’t leak.

[Mg451]

I really hate the idea of that thing having a nut and gasket to seal it but I guess that's about all I can go with

[Rumrace]

Murphy is right again. Almost sounds like you need a second drain. I had two at the back on a previous boat. If one got partially blocked we had a go keeping the cockpit dry. Was a power boat so easy access the the scupper hoses to clear out. I found I had a small rear in one hose. I like Hopcars experienced parts list. Keeps your bronze

[ItDepends]

Originally Posted by HopCar

With straight threads and an elbow the swivel nut is necessary to allow you to point the hose barb in the direction you want. There is a gasket inside the nut to prevent leaks.

Back in the old days of tapered cone seacocks these were used to connect hoses to the seacock. Spartan still uses them. Even the straight ones use a gasket. They don’t leak.

^^Like he says^^^

The entire point of using straight (i.e., non-tapered) threads is so the fitting can be tightened all the way down until the threads bottom out and can be turned no further. This is done to maximize the mechanical strength of the connection. if you do this correctly, the fitting is left pointing in a random direction and can not be adjusted-hence the need for the swivel.

Tapered threads can always be given a bit more twist to jam the threads tighter and fine tune the rotational position of the hose barb, but by their very nature you can never bottom out the threads for full mechanical strength (if the threads are properly cut!)