Teak and lock question

[mlydon]

I wouldn't bother with the TSP - you're going to need to take the teak down to fresh brown wood throughout. ANY grey left behind will show up and ruin the look of your work. Always use a backing block to KEEP the surface flat. As previously stated, only sand to 120-180 on the teak itself. Wipe THOROUGHLY with acetone to remove any oils percolating up through the wood, tack cloth the piece, and coat with a 3:1 ratio of varnish:mineral spirits. Second coat at 4:1, third at 5:1. No sanding between coats yet. These are 'sealing coats' Next, a few (4-5) coats straight varnish, sanding with 220 between coats to get everything flat. Always use a backing block to KEEP it flat. Low spots will be un-sanded. Hit those with a 3m sanding sponge in 'between coats' grit, available at lowes. Take off dust between coats with a mineral-spirits dampened rag or paper towels, finish up with a tack rag wipe again. These are 'build up' coats. Finally, a few more coats sanding with a 320 grit paper, working to perfect the surface. Total 9-10 coats, and your coamings/toerails will look like they were dipped in glass.

you have to be very careful with edges and joints, as any opening will allow water to creep under the finish and you'll be doing it all over again ;-)

Matt

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[SVTatia]

Originally Posted by NorthernMac

Dont mean to be blowing up cruiser forums tonight, just got a ton to do in a short time and have a few questions


I currently have some TSP for cleaning, 80, 120, 220 grit sand paper, cetol natural teak and also cetol gloss, I'm looking to clean up my teak but some of it is pretty ruff/ridged to the touch.

Should I just clean with TSP, sand smooth, put 2-3 hot coats of natural, let cure, sand, and top coat?

And the second half, can anyone recommend a pretty lock solution for my main hatch? Needs to be brass or bronze and be able to be locked or unlocked from inside too (live aboard)

THANKS!!!

The ridges are there because the softwood was removed by harsh cleaning or chemicals, if you use more chemicals it will get worse.

Good advice above, plus my twocents:

• Don’t use chemicals
• Sand with 80
• Then 120 - stop when its smooth
• Next 4 coats of Cetol natural teak.
• Then 4 coats of Cetol clear gloss (for UV block).
• Scuff with new green scotch pads in between coats.

I have teak on my boat that I applied Cetol as above almost 5 years ago, still looking good, but here in the north. Down in the tropics, I had to scuff the surface with the green pads every 6 months and two more coats of clear gloss. Twice a year, 2-4 hour work, 30 minutes beer break in between. Better than sitting in the bar all day long….

Locking the companionway is to keep honest people away, and this is what I have:
https://www.amazon.com/Emtek-Hardwar...2139613&sr=8-1

[Cheechako]

TSP will clean grey or dark dirty teak off real fast. Fiberglass also. It's amazing on an old boat that sat and is super dirty with road dirt etc on it. Do not brush with the grain on wood though! That's what takes out the soft wood in the grooves.
However, if you want to restore your teak and it already has that open grain, just sand it, you will have to anyway.
Beware: TSP will make your hands raw and red, use gloves. You wont know it until you are done! I just used a big salt shaker like container to apply the TSP.

[NorthernMac]

I was thinking more like a nicer keyed on the other side something like this

Put it inllade of where that slot is cut, if that makes sense






The Home Depot bolt look is exactly what I’m trying to stay away from

[rbk]

https://shop.classicmarine.co.uk/cab...es-locker.html

Thank me or curse me later I’ve ordered from them before, shipping was fast a a reasonable.

[RSB333]

If your boat represents YOU, don't use Cetol except perhaps as a clear gloss topcoat. Epifanes holds up fine for me, with a fresh topcoat of Cetal Clear Gloss each spring. And I smile everytime I climb aboard.
RSB333

[Davo1404]

This is the answer on my hatch. Cord connected to the ball allows for outside operation.

[ytquest]

Originally Posted by JPA Cate

Hello, Northern Mac,

I have to confess I never tried to keep up that much varnish, but I sort of know who can tell you what to do. It is extremely labor intensive, but once brought back, a light sand and a couple of coats per year will keep it looking quite well. Your best sources are the wooden boat folks.

Somewhere on CF (I tried, but sorry, couldn't find it) there is a discussion of brands of varnish and what you can expect from them. Unfortunately, it is one of the more expensive ones that looks best. No Cetol I've ever seen looks as good as good varnish.

Don't use TSP. Be kind to that old teak. I'd sand it as lightly as I could get away with, and I wouldn't worry about little dips where the soft grain is gone. Enough coats, and it will be smooth. Think 12 coats. 12 good varnishing temp and humidity days. And go for it. Do not go for perfect, this time. Go for brilliant, perfect can wait. Go for "good enough." Every grain of that timber you sand off is gone forever, and it is not infinitely thick. You can bring it back to beautiful.

Then, when you're starting to get tired of all the work, every 6 months, then think about a varnish seal coat, and paint the teak dove grey. It will come off clean with a heat gun for the next guy, and the paint lasts way, way better than varnish.

By the way, you can do a great deal for oxidised gelcoat with a product called variously PolyGlo. It needs to be re-done annually, but we found it quite satisfactory.

Enjoy the project, sounds like fun.

Ann

Ann is right don't use TSP. I did for years and even weak mixed will take the soft grain out. Use Borax soap and mix it with hot water and it might take a couple of washes or more with a brush. works great.

[NorthernMac]

Originally Posted by RSB333

If your boat represents YOU, don't use Cetol except perhaps as a clear gloss topcoat. Epifanes holds up fine for me, with a fresh topcoat of Cetal Clear Gloss each spring. And I smile everytime I climb aboard.
RSB333

Which epifanes?

And are you hot coating it where you just let it get tacky before another coat?

Let cure, sand and then top coat with cetol gloss?

[rbk]

I also use epiphanes high gloss varnish. Tried their alternative high build stuff by accident (supplier error) two years ago and it’s coming off this season. Follow instructions on thinning hot coat up to 3 layers (2 thinned) then Sand between full flow coats there after. Only buy/open a quart at time as it goes a long way and does like to dry out even when sealed properly (mostly just thicker than it should be but messes with application).

[NorthernMac]

all the teak pointers helped!

As I work my way through the teak, what does the hive recommend for the top paint, both the anti skid and normal paint?

Overall it’s not too bad, but it could use a refresh and touch up in spots.

[brookiesailor]

We did a hybrid on the drop boards. Three coats epoxy then three coats epiphanies for UV protection

[brookiesailor]

The epoxy sealed it fro water and the varnish provided uv