Cruisers Forum
 


Join CruisersForum Today

Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on Cruisers Forums. Advertise Here
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 18-02-2020, 20:41   #1
Registered User
 
NorthernMac's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2019
Boat: A185F, Mystic 30’ Cutter
Posts: 312
Teak and lock question

Dont mean to be blowing up cruiser forums tonight, just got a ton to do in a short time and have a few questions


I currently have some TSP for cleaning, 80, 120, 220 grit sand paper, cetol natural teak and also cetol gloss, I'm looking to clean up my teak but some of it is pretty ruff/ridged to the touch.

Should I just clean with TSP, sand smooth, put 2-3 hot coats of natural, let cure, sand, and top coat?






And the second half, can anyone recommend a pretty lock solution for my main hatch? Needs to be brass or bronze and be able to be locked or unlocked from inside too (live aboard)






THANKS!!!
__________________

NorthernMac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18-02-2020, 20:55   #2
Registered User

Join Date: May 2014
Location: USA
Boat: 41' yawl
Posts: 919
Re: Teak and lock question

Can’t imagine why you’d do anything to that wood. Picture the end result without rose colored glasses. You think the boat is going to look better?

A boat like that, let her age gracefully. Silvery teak and chalky old gelcoat look right together.

Cetol looks like a cheap spray-tan anyways, and seeing that surrounded by old boat is just sad and kinda revolting IMHO.
__________________

chris95040 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18-02-2020, 21:11   #3
Registered User
 
NorthernMac's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2019
Boat: A185F, Mystic 30’ Cutter
Posts: 312
Re: Teak and lock question

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris95040 View Post
Can’t imagine why you’d do anything to that wood. Picture the end result without rose colored glasses. You think the boat is going to look better?

A boat like that, let her age gracefully. Silvery teak and chalky old gelcoat look right together.

Cetol looks like a cheap spray-tan anyways, and seeing that surrounded by old boat is just sad and kinda revolting IMHO.
You’ll for sure not like my soon to be topic on buffing the gel coat back up and a new topcoat on deck.

I just want the boat to look Bristol, I bought it for a good price and have some margin to play, I live aboard and the boat is a representation of me to a degree, of that makes sense
NorthernMac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18-02-2020, 21:59   #4
Registered User
 
NorthernMac's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2019
Boat: A185F, Mystic 30’ Cutter
Posts: 312
Re: Teak and lock question

So what was your point? My boat isn’t worth fixing up? I mean if that’s the case why bother selling paint/vanish/etc?
NorthernMac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18-02-2020, 22:29   #5
Registered User

Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: New Zealand
Boat: 50’ Bavaria
Posts: 1,516
Re: Teak and lock question

You're going too fine with the paper. 80 is most of the way to finishing. I use 40 for most of it, then get rid of the 40-scratches with 80 then 120. Use the 40 until almost all the grey is gone. I use Semco to seal the teak, but if you want to varnish then you can go up to 180 if you feel it's worth it. If sanding is hard work you need to go down a grit level.
Tillsbury is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 18-02-2020, 22:33   #6
Registered User
 
NorthernMac's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2019
Boat: A185F, Mystic 30’ Cutter
Posts: 312
Re: Teak and lock question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tillsbury View Post
You're going too fine with the paper. 80 is most of the way to finishing. I use 40 for most of it, then get rid of the 40-scratches with 80 then 120. Use the 40 until almost all the grey is gone. I use Semco to seal the teak, but if you want to varnish then you can go up to 180 if you feel it's worth it. If sanding is hard work you need to go down a grit level.
Thanks

So sand it until there are no ridges than go up in grit?
NorthernMac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18-02-2020, 23:27   #7
Registered User

Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: New Zealand
Boat: 50’ Bavaria
Posts: 1,516
Re: Teak and lock question

Yes, sand till its flat and golden. Watch the edges, you'll carve them up really easily. The 80 grit won't really remove any wood, it'll just get rid of the scratches from the 40 grit paper, and so on up the levels. The 40 grit will be at least half the work if not more.

People sell paint and varnish to make money, they don't care if it's used or what it's used on ��. But I've seen a few boats that you might think weren't worth fixing up fixed up, and it's good to see. Forget the naysayers and enjoy fixing your boat.
Tillsbury is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 19-02-2020, 00:19   #8
Registered User
 
NorthernMac's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2019
Boat: A185F, Mystic 30’ Cutter
Posts: 312
Re: Teak and lock question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tillsbury View Post
Yes, sand till its flat and golden. Watch the edges, you'll carve them up really easily. The 80 grit won't really remove any wood, it'll just get rid of the scratches from the 40 grit paper, and so on up the levels. The 40 grit will be at least half the work if not more.

People sell paint and varnish to make money, they don't care if it's used or what it's used on ��. But I've seen a few boats that you might think weren't worth fixing up fixed up, and it's good to see. Forget the naysayers and enjoy fixing your boat.

Ok, so start at 40, vibrating sander work for that?








I’m not worried about people who never had a callus or work less than 12hrs on a work day, it’s a super sound and very attractive and well kept boat, just needs a little light cosmetic stuff, heck I sailed her about 1,300 miles days after the survey and buying her.

Luckily I was able to buy it from someone like the guy who posted after my first post, and got it for a song, lots of money to be made and saved with people like that, so nothing but love.
NorthernMac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19-02-2020, 00:44   #9
rbk
Registered User
 
rbk's Avatar

Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Canada
Boat: T37
Posts: 1,722
Re: Teak and lock question

Don’t start with 40. You’re likely to gouge the teak. Preferable to have a random orbital sander as it won’t leave marks. Start with 80 and see how is goes. With 120 being the upper limit to apply varnish I like a better bond so usually only sand bare wood with 80, 2 thinned coats then a sand with 120 in between all other coats. This sanding can be easily done with a sponge sanding block or just sand paper and a block as you’re not trying to remove material but just rough it up a bit to get a good mechanical bond and smooth any imperfections.
rbk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19-02-2020, 00:48   #10
Moderator
 
JPA Cate's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: aboard, cruising in Australia
Boat: Sayer 46' Solent rig sloop
Posts: 18,001
Re: Teak and lock question

Hello, Northern Mac,

I have to confess I never tried to keep up that much varnish, but I sort of know who can tell you what to do. It is extremely labor intensive, but once brought back, a light sand and a couple of coats per year will keep it looking quite well. Your best sources are the wooden boat folks.

Somewhere on CF (I tried, but sorry, couldn't find it) there is a discussion of brands of varnish and what you can expect from them. Unfortunately, it is one of the more expensive ones that looks best. No Cetol I've ever seen looks as good as good varnish.

Don't use TSP. Be kind to that old teak. I'd sand it as lightly as I could get away with, and I wouldn't worry about little dips where the soft grain is gone. Enough coats, and it will be smooth. Think 12 coats. 12 good varnishing temp and humidity days. And go for it. Do not go for perfect, this time. Go for brilliant, perfect can wait. Go for "good enough." Every grain of that timber you sand off is gone forever, and it is not infinitely thick. You can bring it back to beautiful.

Then, when you're starting to get tired of all the work, every 6 months, then think about a varnish seal coat, and paint the teak dove grey. It will come off clean with a heat gun for the next guy, and the paint lasts way, way better than varnish.

By the way, you can do a great deal for oxidised gelcoat with a product called variously PolyGlo. It needs to be re-done annually, but we found it quite satisfactory.

Enjoy the project, sounds like fun.

Ann
__________________
Who scorns the calm has forgotten the storm.
JPA Cate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19-02-2020, 03:55   #11
Registered User

Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: The Maritimes
Boat: 1980 CheoyLee35
Posts: 288
Re: Teak and lock question

I have an old boat with lots of teak and have spent the last 2 decades trying lots of variations for maintaining it. I use varnish on pieces that I can either take off the boat ( hatches and cockpit coatings) or that are well bedded down. 10 or 12 coats with annual sanding and topcoats.
My toerails have caused me the most grief and my happiest years were when I left them grey like yours. I did succumb to the lure of brightwork and have now settled on a combo that works for us. I use a couple coats of Cetol light covered with Cetol gloss. When fresh, it looks close enough to varnish that it doesn’t scream Cetol.
Looking at you photos, it appears that the toerails have some screw plugs that may need to be replaced before you varnish.
I love the look of varnished teak but also find the look of clean, grey teak very attractive. The difference in maintenance is significant. Another option would be to buff up the hull first and then varnish a couple smaller bits as accents.
Good luck!
Shoalcove is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19-02-2020, 10:48   #12
Registered User

Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Blaine Wa.
Boat: Cheoy Lee offshore 41 & Pacific Seacraft 32
Posts: 55
Re: Teak and lock question

40 grit is very aggressive.
I have used 60 grit carefully then go to 80 grit ,120, 300
I spent years trying to get varnish to stay on the cockpit backrests,
finally, out of frustration, I tried Cetol natural teak.
Wow, what a difference, it has lasted 3 years so for.
It is now my go-to product for exterior teak.
Good old boats can be beautiful. You will love the way it looks with a bit of love.
Enjoy
somanyboats is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19-02-2020, 11:18   #13
Registered User
 
Cheechako's Avatar

Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Skagit City, WA
Posts: 22,042
Re: Teak and lock question

I'd just use a sliding bolt latch for when you are inside and use the latch you already have for locking the boat when away.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	boltatch.jpg
Views:	48
Size:	408.3 KB
ID:	209082  
__________________
"I spent most of my money on Booze, Broads and Boats. The rest I wasted" - Elmore Leonard











Cheechako is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19-02-2020, 11:29   #14
Registered User

Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 40
Re: Teak and lock question

Your photos did not come through for me. but re your lock question, are you meaning a 'latch' that can be opened either from down below or from topside, no matter which side it was latched from, or truly a 'lock' which must be opened with a key from topside (or also from below) to secure the hatch from unwanted entry?
Var Korall is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19-02-2020, 11:43   #15
Registered User
 
Cheechako's Avatar

Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Skagit City, WA
Posts: 22,042
Re: Teak and lock question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Var Korall View Post
Your photos did not come through for me. but re your lock question, are you meaning a 'latch' that can be opened either from down below or from topside, no matter which side it was latched from, or truly a 'lock' which must be opened with a key from topside (or also from below) to secure the hatch from unwanted entry?
I was just thinking a "gate barrel bolt" on the top door which slides into a hole on the top sliding hatch teak. I used these type on a couple boats. There are some with hasp locks also. But this idea is just for when you are inside the boat.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hardware...3372/204774963
__________________

__________________
"I spent most of my money on Booze, Broads and Boats. The rest I wasted" - Elmore Leonard











Cheechako is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
teak

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
To "Lock" or not to "Lock" SD50 Props Panache5000 Propellers & Drive Systems 9 13-06-2019 14:45
Torqeedo Battery lock/ Bahamas dinghy lock Chris71 Auxiliary Equipment & Dinghy 1 19-01-2019 15:52
Lock Léopard 45 - door lock FRANCOIS LECOMT Multihull Sailboats 0 08-11-2018 08:24
Steering wheel turns lock to lock GILow Construction, Maintenance & Refit 32 24-02-2013 01:19
Lock & Lock vs Lock-it - Thoughts ? avb3 Provisioning: Food & Drink 7 14-07-2011 01:30

Advertise Here


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 01:57.


Google+
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Social Knowledge Networks
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

ShowCase vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.