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thesaltytar · 04-08-2022, 16:09

Have you tried clamping some flat stock or angle iron and running the shoe of the saw along the edge of it like a fence? Maybe not ideal but might help.

I use the clamps/angle iron technique for making straight cuts in sheets of metal using an angle grinder with a cutting wheel quite often.

**s/v Jedi** · 04-08-2022, 16:11

For making straight cuts into the floor, use a track saw, it’s a no-brainer.

Manateeman · 04-08-2022, 16:23

Hi. A lot of people have never see heart pine. Just about the most beautiful flooring I’ve ever seen. Tough as nails and a nice red color. Sorry but teak and holly just doesn’t do it anymore.
Mark

MicHughV · 04-08-2022, 18:25

though I've never tried doing this.....I'm told laying tape over the intended saw cut line and marking the tape with the intended saw line, prevents the wood from splintering at the saw cut line....
there are some Youtube video's demonstrating this.....curious to know if anyone has tried doing this...

Rumrace · 04-08-2022, 18:37

The tape is more for a jig saw. The key to clean cuts is the blade just coming through and sharp. 1000 feet of hardwood flooring eats up 3-4,top quality blades if set high.

**s/v Jedi** · 04-08-2022, 19:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Manateeman

Hi. A lot of people have never see heart pine. Just about the most beautiful flooring I’ve ever seen. Tough as nails and a nice red color. Sorry but teak and holly just doesn’t do it anymore.
Mark

Looks great!

zachduckworth · 04-08-2022, 20:17

That does look great.
I’m leaning heavily towards hardwood planks without a white wood. Very simple, no drama, and I can do it myself in a weekend. That heart pine does look good.

Uncle Bob · 04-08-2022, 22:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by zachduckworth

That does look great.
I’m leaning heavily towards hardwood planks without a white wood. Very simple, no drama, and I can do it myself in a weekend. That heart pine does look good.

Have to agree, that looks really good.

And I have access to a good selection of some of the toughest hardwood flooring available.

Manateeman · 05-08-2022, 06:49

Heart pine is also known as southern long leaf yellow pine. There were once huge areas of it. It’s a real slow growth tree. Almost all of it has been cut down and what is available now comes from reclaimed buildings or the bottom of rivers.
Suitability in boatbuilding? Well the keel and decks of the USS Constitution are heart pine. The best is sawn not flat, but as you would do for shipbuilding.
Another beautiful and solid wood is old growth cypress. Our boat interior came from trees found in the river bottom. It’s easy to tell them just by feel while diving because the trees were cut with an axe not a chainsaw.
The manatee crew has a underwater stash they tap into whenever they are out of pizza and beer money. Who else has a bank account underwater.
Happy trails to you.
Mark

zachduckworth · 05-08-2022, 08:04

It might end up being cherry now. Cherry looks good, is a hardwood, and is a reasonable price. It will still cost about $450 to do the entire sole, but it will look great when finished and varnished to the -nth degree.

YANDINA · 08-08-2022, 08:09

WARNING, don't use epoxy. I had some serious teak deck problems using epoxy repairs. The wood expands and contracts with moisture level but the epoxy does not so each time some more cracks off. I realize that the sole below deck is going to have much lower moisture content changes but it is still a problem.

Always use a flexible glue that moves with the wood.

SailNDN · 08-08-2022, 08:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by skipmac

Just did the sole in my 42 Pearson with teak and holly (actually these days it's maple). I also did epoxy to the existing sole. I spent a lot of time preplanning where to start, how many planks to the other side, will I end up with a 1/4" strip, etc. Once I figured that out the hard parts were going around doors, bends in the cabinets, etc. A couple of the tricky spots I spent an hour cutting one, multi curved piece to fit. Then I would spend the next hour and finish most of that section once past the edges.

The epoxy was a bit messy and trying to get it into the joints without getting it all over the top was more messy. I would lay down 4-5 planks, then screw blocks close to the last plank (the screw holes are covered in the next row), drive a tapered shim between the block and the planks to make the joints tight, then pile bags of sand on top of that row overnight until the epoxy set.

I also did 10 coats of varnish on the top of the planks before installation. Glad I did. I was concerned it might get slippery when wet so all the holly strips I added some non skid powder to the last coat of varnish. Doesn't show at all when it's down and gives great grip.

Looks great.

Just a comment for skipmac, senior cruiser & his sole nonskid. I was reminded of the original reason for the teak & holly combination. Using full thickness planks, the holly laid edgewise would absorb more moisture more than the teak & expand upward providing a proud edge for under foot grip. The holly did not seem to expand sideways enough to create expansion problems in the floor plane. Been a long time since being on a boat that still had the original sole make up.

Nicholson58 · 08-08-2022, 11:42

We have a veneer teak & holly floor, 1983. It’s pretty dinged up. During this hurricane season we are having Perfect Finish in Chaguaramos, Trinidad at Power Boats strip, repair and refinish. Way less than new wood.

zachduckworth · 08-08-2022, 12:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by YANDINA

WARNING, don't use epoxy. I had some serious teak deck problems using epoxy repairs. The wood expands and contracts with moisture level but the epoxy does not so each time some more cracks off. I realize that the sole below deck is going to have much lower moisture content changes but it is still a problem.

Always use a flexible glue that moves with the wood.

Thanks for bringing that up. I’ve noticed a lit of mention by folks that their t&h plywood was glued in place with white glue. That didn’t make sense until I read your explanation. I’ve seen tongue and groove t&h sets sold alongside epoxy on marine wood specialist websites. Does the tongue and groove material escape the issue? I’m probably going with solid cherry planks screwed directly into the marine plywood, or onto cross planks that are themselves screwed into the plywood.