Visit our Popular Forums

**minaret** · 07-03-2013, 22:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Exile

I was thinking of using my Dremel with similar sorts of attachments, but mainly because that's what I already have. The die grinder probably makes more sense for Minaret who's likely putting more miles on these tools in a week than I would in a year.

Lol! Dremel tool, scoff, scoff. I hate those things, they are a scam perpetrated on homeowners and hobbyists. Their flaw is that an 1/8" shaft isn't strong enough to do any actual work. And you can get a cheap industrial 1/4" shaft die grinder that will do ten times the work for less money. The selection of industrial 1/4" bits is staggering, dwarfs Dremel products. You can run almost anything off a 1/4", flex shaft, Roloc grinder, polisher, cut off wheel, carbide abrasive die grinder bits, anything. One of the most versatile tools in the arsenal. I like Makita for electric die grinders, they live forever. You get what you pay for.

Makita GD0601 1/4-Inch Die Grinder - Amazon.com

**minaret** · 07-03-2013, 22:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by Strait Shooter

Might be to late for the whole "over my head thing" by a year I'm afraid.

I have 2 stainless tanks (pictured hopefully) that have a discoloration on the seams. It doesn't seem that bad but I'm getting ready to add a settee and helm station to the pilothouse and would rather not have to tear it out soon thereafter. Or ever.......

The tank won't fit out of the pilothouse, nor new ones in. Well not without hassles more than I'm willing to deal with.

So if not now, when?

My question is; What about the fuel fittings? Do you drill new ones through the completed project? Or do you bed them in at the start, which seems like a better method. Sorry if this is a stupid question, it's easier to ask though than to screw up.

Thanks bunches for your thread. The sticky got applause at my place.

It appears I'm only attaching one pic at a time.
John

For a fiberglass fuel tank you can glass a 1/4" steel plate into the lid or inspection plate and tap your fittings into it. Are you using a tablet? Can't figure out the one pic thing...

**minaret** · 07-03-2013, 22:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Strait Shooter

My first settee.

Looks nice!

**minaret** · 07-03-2013, 23:25

Bottom done except for stand spots and block spots.

**minaret** · 07-03-2013, 23:28

Stands moved.

**minaret** · 07-03-2013, 23:31

When it's sanded for prep you can see how the layers of barrier coat were staggered.

**minaret** · 07-03-2013, 23:33

Trinidad SR is up to $521 a gallon retail! Glad I don't pay anything even close to retail, got four gallons.

Exile · 07-03-2013, 23:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by minaret

Trinidad SR is up to $521 a gallon retail! Glad I don't pay anything even close to retail, got four gallons.

$242.50 with a $20/gal. mfg. rebate right now at Defender. The Trinidad "Pro" is often cheaper and I've been told it's the same stuff??

Exile · 08-03-2013, 00:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by minaret

Lol! Dremel tool, scoff, scoff. I hate those things, they are a scam perpetrated on homeowners and hobbyists. Their flaw is that an 1/8" shaft isn't strong enough to do any actual work. And you can get a cheap industrial 1/4" shaft die grinder that will do ten times the work for less money. The selection of industrial 1/4" bits is staggering, dwarfs Dremel products. You can run almost anything off a 1/4", flex shaft, Roloc grinder, polisher, cut off wheel, carbide abrasive die grinder bits, anything. One of the most versatile tools in the arsenal. I like Makita for electric die grinders, they live forever. You get what you pay for.

Makita GD0601 1/4-Inch Die Grinder - Amazon.com

Ha-Ha! I'm always buyin' the wrong boat #%^* it seems! Although a 35,000rpm die grinder w/o variable speed could & would spell disaster for a guy like me. I can't even be trusted with one of those cheapo "mouse sanders," at least not w/o adult supervision!

**minaret** · 08-03-2013, 00:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by Exile

$242.50 with a $20/gal. mfg. rebate right now at Defender. The Trinidad "Pro" is often cheaper and I've been told it's the same stuff??

Yeah, you're right, I checked and that's the price on the receipt per box, each of which holds two gallons. Was wondering why it was so high!

**minaret** · 08-03-2013, 00:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by Exile

Ha-Ha! I'm always buyin' the wrong boat #%^* it seems! Although a 35,000rpm die grinder w/o variable speed could & would spell disaster for a guy like me. I can't even be trusted with one of those cheapo "mouse sanders," at least not w/o adult supervision!

Lol! Practice makes perfect...

**s/v Jedi** · 08-03-2013, 05:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by minaret

You can order a few for a couple of bucks each easy. Your missing the point with your palm sander, it's footprint is way too big and it's not aggressive enough. The Roloc will grind aggressively in a very small spot without getting coarse grit scratches which will then be impossible to remove all over the place. It dishes out a repair perfectly, just like a bigger grinder, except its teeny. The Fein is great for cutting but I never use one for sanding, it'd take ten times as long and not do anywhere near as good a job.

There are many types of pads and discs for roloc and you must be thinking of a different one than I am. Which type do you use?

I was under the impression that you would grind up to 1" wide, not just open up the crack a bit. My rotary palmsander can do down to 1/4" with ease. I understand that you want to go very quick but I am not experienced enough for that speed and find a grit 80 disc almost too fast already. You think I would put the sander flat down on the gelcoat with a 5" footprint?! That would make no sense, would it?

The Multimaster might be slow but it is not a speed competition for me and 90% of the time goes into what comes after the grinding anyway. I have these attachments for it with 60 and 80 grit paper:

In Panama you can order something for a couple bucks but the bill from FedEx and import duties from Customs will hit you for a couple hundred extra

**minaret** · 08-03-2013, 06:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

There are many types of pads and discs for roloc and you must be thinking of a different one than I am. Which type do you use?

I was under the impression that you would grind up to 1" wide, not just open up the crack a bit. My rotary palmsander can do down to 1/4" with ease. I understand that you want to go very quick but I am not experienced enough for that speed and find a grit 80 disc almost too fast already. You think I would put the sander flat down on the gelcoat with a 5" footprint?! That would make no sense, would it?

The Multimaster might be slow but it is not a speed competition for me and 90% of the time goes into what comes after the grinding anyway. I have these attachments for it with 60 and 80 grit paper:

In Panama you can order something for a couple bucks but the bill from FedEx and import duties from Customs will hit you for a couple hundred extra

Post some pics of the various stages of your work if you would.

Deepdraft · 08-03-2013, 09:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by minaret

Nothing wrong with using vinylester resin to fix your vinylester boat either. Like I said earlier, I'm all about continuity of materials. I think some of the failures I have seen are caused by this. For instance, in the example of the poly gel on an epoxy layup you posted a vid on. The reason I think a test immediately after making the part is fairly meaningless is because I think the problem is in part that the epoxy lam keeps slowly blushing very small amounts of amines long term, but also that the two materials have dissimilar rates of expansion and contraction. The two problems exacerbate each other and lead to long term failure. I believe the same thing can happen with a repair. The epoxy repair is twice as stiff for the same layup as the poly material it is replacing. This results in stress risers in the faying edge of the repair, exactly where you don't want it. Destructively test a panel repaired like this in shear and it will break right at the edge of the repair every time. I often go to great lengths to match fiber continuity to the original laminate schedule, why wouldn't I also match the original resin, or at least a more modern equivalent that has very similar properties?

How do you know if your boat is vinylestor?