Island Packet 32 autopilot suggestions

[a64pilot]

Mine, right now is getting an 11 x 11 access cover cut, beside the original meant to remove the water heater, it's being cut to facilitate removal of the water heater as you cannot get over the top of the heater to remove the screws on the other side.
What is being done is a square hole is cut, then using the panel removed, just put some teak trim around it and there is your access cover.
You can also buy a 12 x 12 teak louvered door with hinges for about $60 if you like.
I have discovered that there is a lot of room under the port cockpit bench that can be accessed by cutting into the bulkhead inside of the boat, it opens up an area maybe 10 x 10 and about 5 feet long, great place to store fishing rods I'm thinking.

[missourisailor]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

I have discovered that there is a lot of room under the port cockpit bench that can be accessed by cutting into the bulkhead inside of the boat, it opens up an area maybe 10 x 10 and about 5 feet long, great place to store fishing rods I'm thinking.

You mean like this one:




Since I first saw this image, I always wondered how much room is really there.

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by Sandero

My recommendation for an AP is one I have had for more than 25 yrs..,. Alpha 3000. ..

Nice, but it's 5x the price of a new Raymarine wheel drive system and 3x a new Garmin under deck system.

Pete

[Handsoff]

Hi all. I want to thank everybody for all the helpful responses. You have convinced me to leave the working parts of the existing systems alone as they seem to work and just replace the broken Raymarine depth meter. You saved me a bunch of bucks or Swiss francs as the case may be.
I can't be more specific about which model numbers I have for the components as the boat is in Florida and I currently live in Switzerland. Hoping to be back sailing in Oct. This is my first boat and much to learn.
Again thanks
Marshall

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by missourisailor

You mean like this one:




Since I first saw this image, I always wondered how much room is really there.

Yes, exactly like that. Once I get into there I'll verify how much room there is, I hope there is enough separation between bulkheads to mount my watermaker control panels too, beside the access door.
I have also contemplated mounting the control panel with a piano hinge and cam locks making it an access door.
I had never seen this before, but free storage space is nice, especially if it's long enough for short fishing poles.
My understanding is it runs the entire length of the bench, at least up to the small cockpit locker.

[Frankly]

A64,

While you are writing all them big checks (probably creating local inflation in the Stuart area), if you decide to replace the water heater some models are available with the heat exchanger connections on the back. This makes the plumbing connections a little cleaner back in the Hell Hole.

I have a new one sitting in the saloon floor now. The last replacement only lasted 11 years (aluminum tank).

[jhstacy]

I would only recommend the rotary drive. My IP-35 came with one installed below the helm seat and that thing is solid as a rock. I replaced all the chart, Depth and autopilot electronics but was able to wire the new Autopilot into the existing rotary unit, as we saw no reason to replace it.
FYI if you are new to your IP, make sure to check out the ipyoa.com. There is wealth of knowledge there and lots of really wonderful people who love their IP's

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by Frankly

A64,

While you are writing all them big checks (probably creating local inflation in the Stuart area), if you decide to replace the water heater some models are available with the heat exchanger connections on the back. This makes the plumbing connections a little cleaner back in the Hell Hole.

I have a new one sitting in the saloon floor now. The last replacement only lasted 11 years (aluminum tank).

I already have a new water heater, went cheap, one with an aluminum tank. However the original Atwood is in there now, 30 yrs old with an aluminum tank. When this one goes I'll pop for a better one.
I wondered about the hoses being they way they are now, I would have turned it around and ran the cheap, easy to run fresh hoses around.

Largely I went cheap as they are doing the replacement and I wanted an easy same footprint etc one. I'll change the coolant hoses though.

[exMaggieDrum]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Maggie, move the control part to above the wheel.
My drive unit is directly below the steering shaft mounted to the deck.
CPT is not elegant it's strong point is simplicity and the ability to carry a spare and swap it completely out in just a couple of minutes with no tools.
It's actually a pretty primitive thing, the drive unit is I have been told is actually the windshield wiper motor for an over the road truck, don't know if that is true, but I bet it is.

Good suggestion on the location. I thought of that but the top of the pedestal is already loaded up and putting one more thing on there would be a real kluge. I will be keeping it though as a backup after I get my new one installed. Good to know how well it has worked for you. I did send it in for a rebuild and the guy is super to work with there.

[a64pilot]

I initially mounted it to the side on a DG clamp unto I got a bigger plotter.
Then I just cut a piece of plate SS and mounted it above the plotter. Since Photobucket won't allow me to post photos from there anymore this is the best pic I have

[Badsanta]

Check out iPhone port.com. There may be photos and info

[ramblinrod]

Originally Posted by Handsoff

Hi all. I want to thank everybody for all the helpful responses. You have convinced me to leave the working parts of the existing systems alone as they seem to work and just replace the broken Raymarine depth meter. You saved me a bunch of bucks or Swiss francs as the case may be.
I can't be more specific about which model numbers I have for the components as the boat is in Florida and I currently live in Switzerland. Hoping to be back sailing in Oct. This is my first boat and much to learn.
Again thanks
Marshall

Before replacing the depthsounder, (ST60+ ?), check the connections on the back. If all connections are good, buy a replacement transducer, connect it to the display and hang it over the side. If that solves it, replace the transducer permanently. If that doesn't solve it, return the transducer for refund and buy a used ST 60 depthsounder display off eBay.
Other than Seatalk ng (NMEA 2K) the newer depthsounder won't do anything for you.
If updating the chartplotter (MFD) get the version with built in sonar. Less cost and way more functionality than a discrete depth sounder.

(Certified Raymarine Installer / Service Povider.)

[exMaggieDrum]

Originally Posted by ramblinrod

Before replacing the depthsounder, (ST60+ ?), check the connections on the back. If all connections are good, buy a replacement transducer, connect it to the display and hang it over the side. If that solves it, replace the transducer permanently. If that doesn't solve it, return the transducer for refund and buy a used ST 60 depthsounder display off eBay.
Other than Seatalk ng (NMEA 2K) the newer depthsounder won't do anything for you.
If updating the chartplotter (MFD) get the version with built in sonar. Less cost and way more functionality than a discrete depth sounder.

(Certified Raymarine Installer / Service Povider.)

Good suggestion on the transducer and display. I don't agree, personally, with depending solely on using a chartplotter for depth sounding and display on my boat. I prefer in fact, insist on, having a separate depth sounder which is on when my other instruments are on. I do not always run my chartplotter as it is often unnecessary in familiar cruising areas, and it is a power hog. That isn't an issue for power boaters usually but certainly is if you have a cruising sailboat. What I really like is a chartplotter which can display the soundings from the same transducer so I can have both.

[PlumBob]

The first things we did on Whimsy were to change the water heater, which failed a couple of weeks after purchase, and to change the cockpit scupper hoses. To do that I had the yard cut an access panel in front of the rudder post. Appx 15 wide x 12 high. I put a teak surround around it and it's good to go.

We have a mixture of things, too. All Raymarine. The speed and depth sounder have their separate displays, but also feed to the chart plotter. I have a second depth transducer installed, but not attached. The radar and AIS are networked into the chart plotter.

The new wheel pilot, likewise, is/will function stand alone - but networked into the chart plotter.

VHF radio is stand alone - Standard Horizon older model.

I suppose the next thing to address would be the wind instruments, which are completely stand alone, but I do think that I can bring their signals into the network too, with some reading and tinkering. Not sure what real functionality that might add, however, when I consider how we're really going to use the boat.

[a64pilot]

I don't know how exactly, but the electrician here at Mack Sails is installing a Maretron Wx station and of course it's NMEA 2000 and will drive my old ST 60 displays with it, he swears also that it will put my water speed sensor which is Seatalk on the Bus as well so that makes the Seatalk stuff fully connected to NMEA 2000. I didn't think that was possible but he says it is.
I wanted to leave the old ST60 displays driven by a replacement windex, and have the Maretron too, but was talked out of it