Ideas for DIY cupboard doors?

[Reefmagnet]

I'm in the process of installing some new shelves and small cabinets (with about 8x15 inch door openings) in the salon of my boat. Reaching the point where I need to cut-out openings in the ply and fabricate the doors, I'm considering a number of options, including just cutting the ply really neatly and using the offcuts as a flush fitting door, to fitting the door in a frame and having it sit proud of the fascia. Whilst I don't want the finished result to look too amateurish, I also don't want to spend weeks and weeks making these things (I need to make 8 cupboards in total).

Any suggestions on good designs and techniques suitable for DIY?

[danstanford]

Originally Posted by Reefmagnet

I'm in the process of installing some new shelves and small cabinets (with about 8x15 inch door openings) in the salon of my boat. Reaching the point where I need to cut-out openings in the ply and fabricate the doors, I'm considering a number of options, including just cutting the ply really neatly and using the offcuts as a flush fitting door, to fitting the door in a frame and having it sit proud of the fascia. Whilst I don't want the finished result to look too amateurish, I also don't want to spend weeks and weeks making these things (I need to make 8 cupboards in total).

Any suggestions on good designs and techniques suitable for DIY?

If you can cut the plywood out neatly enough you can then add a molding around the plywood so it will cover the opening with an overlap. Hinging will be much easier. If you look around you may find a molding with a rabbet out of it so it covers the sawn edge or if you have access to a table saw you can create this rabbet.

If this isn't clear let me know and I will make and attach a sketch.

Dan

[keepondancin]

you can get iron on teak edge band to cover the edge of the panels. If you do put an el shaped trim piece to clean up the openings,you will have a little wiggle room to trim the cutout pieces and straighten the cuts. If the plywood you are cutting out is less than 3/4”, you will need to get creative to have enough wood to mount hinges. Being an older boat, I imagine the wood will be pretty stable, and not twist.

[KeelMe]

In the US you can order nice hardwood cabinet doors in any size you want online for a few dollars. Maybe you should try a cabinet shop.

That being said. Most of the cabinet doors in production boats are plywood with molding on them.

It all depends on what level of finish you want.

[ayates]

I used marine mahogany plywood edged in mahogany; glued with epoxy. Overlay, vs inset. Standard hidden hinges and Southco stainless steel latches. These are fairly quick to make, look quite classy, and the overlay aspect gives some fudge room. The joint between the edging and the plywood uses biscuits for alignment (and strength).


Allan.

[Hardhead]

Originally Posted by ayates

I used marine mahogany plywood edged in mahogany; glued with epoxy. Overlay, vs inset. Standard hidden hinges and Southco stainless steel latches. These are fairly quick to make, look quite classy, and the overlay aspect gives some fudge room. The joint between the edging and the plywood uses biscuits for alignment (and strength).


Allan.

Beautiful work-

[KeelMe]

Originally Posted by ayates

I used marine mahogany plywood edged in mahogany; glued with epoxy. Overlay, vs inset. Standard hidden hinges and Southco stainless steel latches. These are fairly quick to make, look quite classy, and the overlay aspect gives some fudge room. The joint between the edging and the plywood uses biscuits for alignment (and strength).


Allan.

Very nice indeed. That is a nice simple elegant style.

[toddster8]

I've been doing something similar, except making the mahogany "frame" a bit wider and using thinner material for the panel. For example, mahogany door skin is lightweight and inexpensive, though woven cane would provide better ventilation. Or black ABS sheeting for a more modern look that lends itself well to making matching control panels.

I do like the solid panel look better, but then some other means of ventilating the cabinet is needed.

[ayates]

Originally Posted by toddster8

I've been doing something similar, except making the mahogany "frame" a bit wider and using thinner material for the panel.

So essentially frame and panel construction. This can certainly look more elegant, and gives options as you indicate for a ventilated panel if desired.

[ayates]

Here are a couple of "under construction" photos.




Allan.

[capt jgw]

"Neatly cutting" the holes would be way harder than you think. I wouldn't consider even trying it. (But then I know the limits of my craftsmanship). You need some kind of trim to cover the edges.

[toddster8]

Yes. There are several steps to making the frames, which can be a bit finicky switching and setting router bits, but if you make a whole bunch of frame at once it's relatively efficient.

[alansmith]

Ayates, man, that turned out nice. Clean, functional, and very pleasing to my eye. Well done, Sir!

[FionaJC]

I cut the hole in the panel. I then framed the hole with hardwood L shaped. I used a mitre saw and trimmed till it fitted. I then glued in the frame to the hole.

I then made another frame with a small gap to fit inside the framed hole, glued it and cut the removed panel to fit.

The knobs are the push in to lock and push again to unlock. Iused a polyurethane glue as its easty to trip with a chisel edge and it fills gaps.

[Mike Banks]

Mark your opening on the plywood and cut it out neatly using a clean-cut thin blade in your jig-saw.

Take the piece you have removed, and lay it on a sheet of plywood. Using a ruler and square, mark a rectangle so that it is about one centimetre, or half to three quarters of an inch, larger than the piece you removed on three sides only. The flush side will carry the marine grade stainless steel or tuffnel hinges. On the inside of the plywood where the hinges and catches are to be fitted, you will need to glue and clamp a piece of rot-resistant timber to carry the hinges and catch.

For such purposes I often buy mahogany garden stakes--they are cheap as chips and make great small pieces when sized and shaped. I have used them to make frames of cupboards and lockers--they take glue reasonably well and they accept screws without splitting if one drills them correctly.

Glue the cover piece to the part removed, at least around the perimeter, using epoxy glue or polyurethane glue. Dress and sand any edges. One door--in about forty minutes or less.