ICE Surviving hull design(s)(Or manual haulout options)?

[psk125]

Looking for a boat that can withstand getting stuck in the ice? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maud_(ship). She got stuck in the ice in 1926, then apparently sprung a leak around her stuffing box, and sank in 1930. She was brought back to the surface in 2016 and is back in Norway now. Seems like it must be a good design with solid construction to hold up for about 100 years and still be worth salvaging.
Others have not been so lucky:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frankl...ost_expedition Both the Erebus and Terror have been located - upright on their bottoms where they sank after getting crushed in the ice.

[Onlooker]

Originally Posted by tkeithlu

In the general case, steel hulls are designed to the same standards as fiberglass hulls. Neither are designed with resisting crushing as a primary goal. Both are designed by marine architect/engineers for stiffness, etc.

In addition, I'm thinking about some aspects of steel that I learned building a steel boat. The stuff is a lot more plastic than I thought. You can dent it pretty easily, my script by my signature not withstanding. Yeah, head-on, I'd bet on my steel boat every time, but compressive crushing? I don't know.

All that said, how thick is the ice in question?

There's radius chine and multi-chine boats available here.. Radius would in my imagination be more likely to lift itself out, however multi-chine might provide more crushing resistance , at least at the corner/weld.. The multi seems in better shape of the boats avail and is smaller more deliverable' 32' .

I've been told by those who go ice fishing on the lake that ice can get 2-4 feet thick occasionally(extremely cold winters).. I thought he said 40" but that seems like too much?



Thanks for your insight.

[Onlooker]

Originally Posted by Muaddib1116

Are you looking for a boat to sail into high latitude places? or just a floating home to live on in a place that freezes?

Floating home(seasonal).. Geographic difficulties with access to my property would make a boat far easier to enjoy the property than the thousands it would cost for a barge and to bring say an RV over or even building materials.

I'm not above pulling (somehow) it up onto the property and using it as an odd-shaped cottage(Lived on 28'er for 8mo. before)

[Onlooker]

Originally Posted by Paul Howard

The ice movement pinching up on the hull lifted part up and forced part down until they feared it would sink and began chopping at the ice to save the boat. Their boat was a centreboard boat with no keel sticking out the bottom to be caught in the ice.

Suggesting a double-ender might be preferred, much more rare I suppose. I wonder if attaching the mooring chains submerged to the bottom of a keel that would remain below the ice might be worth a try.



Thanks

[Onlooker]

Originally Posted by bmz

Nonmoving ice will not damage sailboat' s hull, steel or fiberglass. Put a tarp over it, close and put antifreeze in the throughhulls, and you are good for the winter.

Sounds tempting, however ice will move somewhat in the spring thaw I suppose.. Should melt 'first' around your boat in theory, especially if metal/darker. Does make one consider making the mooring in a less open area as possible, for any larger blowing sheets.

Do you have any experience doing this directly?

Thanks

[Onlooker]

Originally Posted by PirateGuy

If all you are looking for is extra space in a “cottage” why don’t you go the traditional route and buy and old RV or schoolbus and park it on some cement blocks.
No worries about moving ice, and it will look just as tacky as a $3k dilapidated sailboat sinking off your shore.

Hehe, That is being considered, but it is also geographically inconvenient for an RV or building materials. Basically the price of a barge would be near the cost of a boat, then I'd still have to purchase said RV.

Driving an RV over the ice might be possible, although it is a long(4.2km) way to go(dangerous?), and would need to park it next to the shore prior to the snow; wait for it to freeze solid enough(if it does, some winters might not get cold enough); Atlantic Canada.


32-44' Steel boats in area are the cost of 26' Tanzer's, and if doing that, more room is always nice. Not above shortening a keel and just adding weight under the floor.

Something being considered.. Only 1 neighbor is in visual range of my property, 1.2km away..

[Onlooker]

Originally Posted by captlloyd

More details on the size of the boat in mind but if not very big, yes, a wheeled rig could be fabricated to drag it out depending on lake bottom and grade. Bubblers are an option, just requiring an air pump.

To be determined (size/type) .. I might endup just getting a Catalina 22 type boat, and floating it's trailer over and pulling it up/out in the fall.. Those are ironically more difficult to find than a 32' steel multichine for $3k.+ $1500+- delivery'


I've not seen anyone use bubblers in our area, except where the ocean just borderline freezes(open ocean, but iced harbor). I would imagine the power consumption would be significant on solar though a sunless winter.

hhmmm

[psk125]

Originally Posted by bmz

Nonmoving ice will not damage sailboat' s hull, steel or fiberglass. Put a tarp over it, close and put antifreeze in the throughhulls, and you are good for the winter.

All you have to do is nail that ice down to keep it from moving. Your luck might be better than Shackleton's or the 33 whaling vessels that got caught: (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whaling_Disaster_of_1871).

[PirateGuy]

Originally Posted by captlloyd

Snark city !

I worked off the pack ice north of Alaska for 4 seasons in my younger years. A moving ice sheet 2-3 ft thick will take out concrete structures, much less a cockleshell boat hull.

Why do you think the soviets built nuclear powered icebreakers with armored hulls?