Dry Rot

[RustyBullets]

I need some advice on non-removal of some rotted wood framing around the aft area framing the window wall/ door of my older 34' sport fisherman. I don't think it's structurally weak, but replacement of the wood is hugely expensive, i.e. about $12,000 on a boat only worth about double that (and with other needs, too).

I'm considering scraping out the rotted wood and treating the inside areas of the boards with dry rot epoxy treatment to firm it up, and then filling with a hard material and then fairing it to resemble the original wood. I've seen several materials touted that say they can do this.

I'd like comments. Leaving it as is isn't a choice; it leaks. Full restoration isn't a choice, either.

rusty

[Seymore]

With dry rot, the tendrils (that is, the roots) extend 18" along the grain of the wood from where the rot is visible.

[tkeithlu]

The last time I did something similar was about 55 years ago, but here goes. Seymore is right of the need to cut back a lot farther than you would think. Then, you'll have much more strength in your repair if you make a similarly shaped plug out of plywood or new wood, such that your epoxy is gluing it in place rather than becoming structural in its own right. Then, if the interior side will allow it, make a second patch that is one or two inches larger in all directions, gluing again, so you have a backing plate. Consider screwing the two together, as well, and screwing the backing plate to the original wood. If you don't have enough space inside for a wooden backing plate, consider making one out of aluminum or stainless steel. You should be able to make something stronger than the original. This doesn't sound like a $12,000 job. Have I missed something?