Destined for Davy Jones? Excessive blisters.

[Svmoose]

Hello, new user here so I apologize in advanced for any forum faux pas.

I am in the process of a bottom job on my new project boat and am looking for some advice on the extent that I need to go to accomplish a solid hull. I've gotten to the point of peeling everything including about 1 mm of fiberglass and it appears to me that the blisters are very bad. most of the larger surface blisters have come off with the gelplane and I will remove any obvious delamination but do I need to keep digging deeper?There were no obvious bubbles when I started as this boat was bought by me after sitting on the hard for 6 years. So I am not sure if I am looking at a normal functional fiberglass hull or one that was as wet as a sponge when hauled and no longer safe without extensive work. Here's an imgur link for those interested in taking a look.
https://imgur.com/gallery/y3uSmb8

[Orion Jim]

Looks like a goner....you would have to peel until you found solid laminate then add layers of properly saturated fiberglass, sand smooth, etc. you would quickly exceed the value of the projected value upon completion. How much do you love this boat...

[Svmoose]

Originally Posted by Orion Jim

Looks like a goner....you would have to peel until you found solid laminate then add layers of properly saturated fiberglass, sand smooth, etc. you would quickly exceed the value of the projected value upon completion. How much do you love this boat...

Well I have more time than money or common sense, apparently. So I'll keep her around for now. I felt the same way as you when I realized there's some deep voids in there. But so far the delamination at the keel is the only thing that really scares me. I'm guessing I'll have to support it off it's keel to even attempt that one. I'll finish peeling her and see what the rest looks like only took a week to this point 😆. Any specific suggestions as to why I'm wasting my time will be taken into consideration.

[coopec43]

You might be interested in reading these articles by a well known surveyor.

Boats, Yachts: The Wonderful World of Hull Blistering

https://www.yachtsurvey.com/BlisterFail2.htm

https://www.google.com/search?ei=RnW...YGMCKoQ4dUDCAs

[Fore and Aft]

Svmoose I have seen way worse and would not be stressing to much. I surveyed an S & S that was like yours. After 12 months of drying they wrapped her in two layers of double bias in epoxy and she was still blister free last time I saw her. The deeper blisters they filled with glass back to the level of the hull. They also did not completely get rid of all the white areas before glassing.
Cheers

[coopec43]

Fore and aft

That was my thoughts too.

[ilenart]

I did similar repairs to a UFO 34 few years ago, however I just had it grit blasted. Took about 4 months to dry out over winter here in Fremantle. High pressure cleaned it until I stopped getting moisture coming out, via taping plastic to the hull and seeing if any condensation on the inside of the plastic. Then followed International’ advise using epoxy and Interprotect. Fixed the problem, hull was fine after this. Was a big job, basically lots of weekends and cost around A$6k with doing lots myself.

Ilenart

[skipgundlach]

I've published my history with our boat - which had hundreds of blisters - here.

Polyester is hygroscopic, which gets worse with any uncatalyzed resins, which are water soluble (WaterSolubleMaterial = WSMs), from which you may get smelly leakage on removal from the water.

You can't "dry" that stuff. You have to remove it, and then grind back any places which are not fully laminated, then do a fiberglass repair; from your story it sounds as if another layer of fiberglass - unless it's a real tank of a boat, such as ours is/was when we did it - is also recommended after the basic repairs brings everything back to nominally flush.

I'll save you the entire story, but here's a link to what we did on our bottom after a supposedly skilled grinder-wielder took off the entirety of the barrier coat which had been applied after a previous peel (which did NOT address those WSMs, creating hundreds of blisters UNDER the barrier coat):

Pictures: Flying Pig 2011-2012 Refit/Bottom Job

I suspect that if you search my name and bottom job, you can find the article covering our process of remediation and restoration, here in CF...

[Michael Pope]

L dislike writing about this subject as it hurts me I spent too much time building boats like yours and then years later repairing them for more than they were then worth.
But to help you, and considering my experience with that builder . Stop working on the bottom! Until you survey the deck and bulkheads very thoroughly. I have encountered a high percentage of ROTTEN ( Like black soup) balsa decks in that Make and the cost in time and lung damage associated with repairing both Bottom and Deck will make any one stop and throw a party (after lockdown) to celebrate your escape from the Gates of Hell . If the boat came from a European builder there might be a hope that they followed "Loyd's Standards" as far as thickness of laminate . THEN the hull skin would be about 3/4 of an inch or 19 mmm THICK at the turn of the bilge and if you put a couple of of heavy layers of epoxy /bi-axial glass laminate over the WHOLE of the outside and at least one layer in the inside up to a waterline about a foot above the existing waterline then and only then would I go with you on a Round the world cruise. Because what you have there now is not even good CORE for a structure any where Least of all For an ocean cruiser . Sorry Mike Pope

[MAJICDAN]

My current boat had 80-100 blisters.
Ground them out/repaired them.
Then added 16 layers of hand laid up vinalester fiberglass
Ground hull smooth.
Four coats of Epiglass
Three coats barrier coat
That was over fifteen years ago and I have not seen a blister since.

[Scaramanga F25]

Looks like the original mat layup was starved of resin. If I understand you correctly it has been drying out for 6 years. Continue peeling and when finished I would add a layer or two glass and resin on the whole bottom. Coat with inter protect.
However, before adding layers of glass drill 1/4 in test holes in the hull to check the thickness it may very well be thick enough.

[Squanderbucks]

Fiberglass work in general is not too hard except doing what you now have to do. Working upside down is a real back and neck killer. Because gravity is working against you it is necessary to work in small patches which leads to a lot of sanding and fairing once the glass work is done Ideally this would be done with vacuum bagging sections as you go along but takes specialized equipment and increases materials but gives a superior job and ultimately takes less back breaking work in the long run. Look for some YouTube to see if this may be a route for you.
Another cost saving material to consider is vinylester resin. Much better than polyester resin in resisting future blisters and much easier and way less costly than epoxy.

[MJH]

Originally Posted by Svmoose

Hello, new user here so I apologize in advanced for any forum faux pas.

I am in the process of a bottom job on my new project boat and am looking for some advice on the extent that I need to go to accomplish a solid hull. I've gotten to the point of peeling everything including about 1 mm of fiberglass and it appears to me that the blisters are very bad. most of the larger surface blisters have come off with the gelplane and I will remove any obvious delamination but do I need to keep digging deeper?There were no obvious bubbles when I started as this boat was bought by me after sitting on the hard for 6 years. So I am not sure if I am looking at a normal functional fiberglass hull or one that was as wet as a sponge when hauled and no longer safe without extensive work. Here's an imgur link for those interested in taking a look.
https://imgur.com/gallery/y3uSmb8

Everything I have read about blisters is that they are not structurally damaging, its more aesthetic and disturbance of the water flow across the hull. I had a friend that paid to have his hull peeled and it was very expensive...per your statement that is not an option. The other route is to grind them out, let the hull dry out totally (buy a good moisture meter)...perhaps many months, then fill them, barrier coat the entire hull and paint.

Good luck.

~ ~ _/) ~ ~ MJH

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by Svmoose

Hello, new user here so I apologize in advanced for any forum faux pas.

I am in the process of a bottom job on my new project boat and am looking for some advice on the extent that I need to go to accomplish a solid hull. I've gotten to the point of peeling everything including about 1 mm of fiberglass and it appears to me that the blisters are very bad. most of the larger surface blisters have come off with the gelplane and I will remove any obvious delamination but do I need to keep digging deeper?There were no obvious bubbles when I started as this boat was bought by me after sitting on the hard for 6 years. So I am not sure if I am looking at a normal functional fiberglass hull or one that was as wet as a sponge when hauled and no longer safe without extensive work. Here's an imgur link for those interested in taking a look.
https://imgur.com/gallery/y3uSmb8

1 mm is less than 1/16' which is 1.58 mm.
I don't think you've peeled enough glass yet.
I'd peel more, then if you've taken an 1/8" reevaluate.
Small blisters, are annoying but not a death warrant for your FRP.
If your thinking, scrap it, make sure your deep enough to really see what you have.
You'll be laying up new Glass to make it strong again.
SV Cloud Duster

[Michael Pope]

OK If you really want to do it??? Borrow or rent a big truck go to the biggest tire company and offer to take away a truckload of their trashed tires. First time I did this they offered to pay me!! Make a bed for the boat one side get rid of the rig use a crane with long slings or a clever Travel lift guy and gently lay the boat down in stages adjusting the bed . Till it is down. GRIND CUT AND FILL FAIR Cover with a tarp overnight and when it rains . Hang the tarp up as a sunshade before glassing and then
glass --two or three experienced guys -- Two days /side ------One man to trim and prep before turning over three days-- Turn over two guys and Crane/whatever for tire bed.
Second side will be quicker. IS SO MUCH EASIER WHEN IS NOT OVER HEAD AND YOU GET A BETTER JOB. If you want a supper job on a race boat you can do a vacuum bag and peel Ply operation I would only try half the length the first try. There is a lot of learning but the job can be fantastically good. -------- But pricey--- Please check the deck first!! Michael Pope. You want to ask more feel free I am very retired.