dangers of using dremel on seized nut

[evm1024]

I've always heard that ATF in acetone works the best in controlled tests (better than PB Blaster et al)

I've never tried it....

Sounds more like it was galled.

[MartinF]

A 24" breaker bar (=heavy duty socket handle) on a HEXAGONAL socket is very effective, as are electric or air-driven impact wrenches. Expensive for one use; you could try borrowing from a friend who services his own car.
Good Luck,
M

[Bill O]

Originally Posted by evm1024

I've always heard that ATF in acetone works the best in controlled tests (better than PB Blaster et al)

I've never tried it....

Sounds more like it was galled.

Supposedly there was a very old comparison study of penetrating oils published in a machinist mag (never found the article) and the ATF and acetone (1:1 ratio) was "cited". Not really, sure how it would work as the 2 liquids are not miscible (like mixing oil and water).


Bill O.

[a64pilot]

The Machinist forum had actually a pretty sophisticated test, I have read it and can’t find it myself.
However ATF and acetone are not miscible, it has been best described like oil and vinegar salad dressing, you have to mix it vigorously before using and it separates out in the bottle pretty quickly.
So use a spray bottle or my favorite and old dishwashing detergent bottle.

It does work, and my xmsn uses ATF and who sails a fiberglass boat and doesn’t have acetone with them?

[redbeard1]

Originally Posted by Bill O

Supposedly there was a very old comparison study of penetrating oils published in a machinist mag (never found the article) and the ATF and acetone (1:1 ratio) was "cited". Not really, sure how it would work as the 2 liquids are not miscible (like mixing oil and water).


Bill O.

That's the study that told me about Kroil. If I can find it again, I'll post link. Kroil was 2x as good as PB but less good than the ATF and acetone.

That said, the study was not scientific. I think they just used the liquid on some rusty nuts on some machine once. So no way of knowing if a given oil was applied to a more difficult nut or not.


Link to forum describing study, see post #35. While not scientific, it may be good enough.

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/thr...acetone%20test



link to forum summarizing results, see post #5

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...ng-oil-196347/

[belizesailor]

Now I know why the Dremel disc exploded! Doh! [emoji6]

[Mike Banks]

One of the most useful tools is an angle grinder (preferable powered by Lithium ion battery) and fitted with a fine cutting disk. One simply cuts the bolt across its end, splitting the bolt itself vertically and then cutting through the entire nut as the blade passes downwards.

The big advantage of a battery powered angle grinder is it can be used in wet environments--so a little water can be played intermittently on the nut to get rid of the excess heat.

There is nothing as good as this tool for cutting anything metal--be it steel cable, locks, chains, rusted shackles, pipes, in fact anything at all.

No criminal or boatswain should ever be without one.

[JPA Cate]

if the nut's somewhere you have room to get the breaker bar on it, the extra leverage really helps a lot. The OP's problem is unusual, to me; Nylocks don't usually seize.

Ann

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by JPA Cate

if the nut's somewhere you have room to get the breaker bar on it, the extra leverage really helps a lot. The OP's problem is unusual, to me; Nylocks don't usually seize.

Ann

I think it was Stainless.
I have had such bad luck with self locking SS nuts galling that I don’t use them anymore, or if I do, I make sure I put anti seize on them first.
But I prefer regular nuts and blue Loctite and or lockwashers.

[JPA Cate]

If it were anybody but you, I'd say you put 'em on too tight if the threads galled, but okay, your usage and ours have been different, and thanks for the input.

Ann

[Stu Jackson]

Recent experience, just last month: Acorn nuts. Used dremel to cut off the domes on the nuts, then a nut splitter to pop the nut. Only way to go after doing lotsa research.

You will need a snipe on the nut splitter wrench to get enough leverage once the tooth starts to bite the nut edge.

Good luck, very "doable."

[a64pilot]

Snipe? Autocorrect for pipe maybe?

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by JPA Cate

If it were anybody but you, I'd say you put 'em on too tight if the threads galled, but okay, your usage and ours have been different, and thanks for the input.

Ann

Ann, it seems to be on removal they gall. I ran into this with my solar panel mount, it’s constructed from aluminum extrusions as it was a DIY thing, and I used SS bolts and self locking nylock nuts.
Seemed odd, maybe I did overtorque, SS is much softer than high carbon steel

[redbeard1]

Originally Posted by Wotname

No, it doesn't shoot off, sometimes cutting one side is enough, especially if you spray some of your wonder spray into the cut.

Thanks for tip. I cut a small slice into 1 of the 6 sides until I reached the bolt. I then poured the Kroil into the slit and waited overnight. Nut came off with little effort.


Bottom two thirds of nut/bolt was heavily rusted.



Thanks to all for tips.

[Wotname]

^^ good news

And thanks for the update, so often we never hear if the OP was successful or otherwise!